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Hi everyone,
The battery on my 2014 MDX died so I purchased a new one. After the new battery was installed I began experiencing issues starting the car intermittently. Sometimes the vehicle would start without a problem but other times I would get a lot of clicking and it wouldn't start, but if you try it again in a minute it would start back up. I took it to the dealership and they couldn't replicate the issue and said it must have been a one off, hitting a bad cell or something when trying to start. A few weeks went by and the problem kept getting worse so I took it back in but the dealership tech still said they couldn't find any issues - battery tested fine, alternator fine, and no issues in the system starting the car. However now a few more weeks have gone by and things have gotten even worse with random VSA lights going on while driving, interior dome lights no longer work, and the rear liftgate now only works intermittently (in addition to existing starting issues). Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem is? Video of some of the problems is on Youtube at: youtu.be/Fh1NMjrYCQY
 

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hitting a bad cell or something when trying to start
That statement doesn't even make sense. All six cells in the battery are used each time the battery is used. The six cells are in series with each other.

The first thing that comes to my mind is the battery cables and whether they're properly installed and tight (but not over-tight). A loose or corroded or non-clean battery cable can cause the symptoms you're seeing.

The second is the battery itself. You may have received a dud battery and it's possible it could test fine but have an intermittent issue.

Thirdly, it's always possible there was some extraneous issue that caused the first battery to appear to be the fault when it wasn't and that issue is still present.

Just one data point - the battery in my 2014 died at just a bit over 4 years old, right around when I expected it to die but it failed hard. I replaced it and haven't had an issue with the replacement.
 

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I agree that the resistance of a poor contact between the cables and battery is a potential problem. It is, or at least was, common to use a special-purpose wire brush on both the battery posts and clamps just prior to assembly - it doesn't take much oxide to cause a problem.

Otherwise, what kind of battery was purchased? It should have been an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery. AGMs hold their voltage a bit higher than a FLA (flooded lead acid, or traditional) battery. An FLA battery could have voltage sag under load that causes a problem, whereas the AGM will be better at keeping the voltage up under load. Note that I am assuming "good" batteries in both cases; AGM is just a better design. AGMs cost more, but this is not the place to cut corners on a car with a lot of electronic systems.

The only way to know if the battery is working properly is to pull it from the car and use a special tester that will put a large load on it and observe the current/voltage result. Your dealer might have done that...
 

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Do some diagnostics yourself.

Use a basic digital voltmeter to watch the voltage at the battery before starting, and during starting. When you first open the hood and connect the meter to the battery, you should have 12.5 volts or higher. Then turn the vehicle to "Accessory" mode. It should only drop 2 tenths of a volt or so from your first reading. Then go to the "Start" sequence. The voltage should stay around 10 volts =/- half a volt during starting.

Below these values indicates an undercharged or defective battery.
 

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I lived with similar issues and dealer / firestone couldn't replicate the problem, but a local shop found that one of the battery cable was damaged ... lol. Check that or have someone check for you.
 
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