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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I fked up badly. I stripped the oil pan and have been using one of those universal wing drain plug and the metal screw piece broke...inside. I have a new oil pan, but I'm waiting for spring or summer because it's too cold outside (don't have a garage). Will this cause any problem or is it just sitting at the bottom of the pan?

I also hear rattling noise when I start the engine in cold temperature and at certain like around 35mph and 60mph. Could this be causing the noise?




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Probably ok because your crankshaft act as a grinder and will chop it into small pieces! Stop driving and remove the oil pan ASAP or say goodbye to your engine soon


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How did you strip your pan? It’s a good warning for folks thinking about trying their first DIY.

If it were me I’d bring it to a shop and just bite the bullet and pay the 2 hour labor to replace the pan and for piece of mind to know if any damage was caused. No telling if the sounds you’re hearing is the metal piece but you’ll know as soon as that pan is removed and can see the condition of the piece and can go from there.
 

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Good idea to stop driving immediately and get the new oil pan. While you are on it, get the TB changed and reseal the oil pump. You'll thank me later.
 

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Stop driving!
You might be able to use a flexible tobacco pipe cleaner link to reach in to the oil pan's drain hole and drag the wing nut out.

Otherwise, $150 towing + $475 oil pan.
 

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Good idea to stop driving immediately and get the new oil pan. While you are on it, get the TB changed and reseal the oil pump. You'll thank me later.
Ordering all the parts I need. I will need to remove the whole oil pump to reseal it?

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You will find exhaust donut/gaskets cheap at Napa Auto Parts, when you reassembly your exhaust pipes.

There are no gaskets on J-pipe. No exhaust gaskets needed.
 

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That part has probably settled somewhere at the bottom of the pan. There are baffles that should prevent it from moving around too much in the meantime. The rattle you are hearing could be the heat shield on the rear catalyst. There's a lot of videos on replacing the pan; folks use HondaBond and you should see the correct application temperatures before trying to do it at the wrong temp and having to redo it.
 

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I took my jpipe many times and put it back with out issue, there were no leaks. There are raised, inner rings on j-pipe and they make good seal...
Old, not the best quality photo, but you get the picture :

114193
 

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I took my jpipe many times and put it back with out issue, there were no leaks. There are raised, inner rings on j-pipe and they make good seal...
Old, not the best quality photo, but you get the picture :

View attachment 114193
The bolts on mine is rusted to hell. I ordered nut extractor sockets from Amazon. I'll see if those can remove it.

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That part has probably settled somewhere at the bottom of the pan. There are baffles that should prevent it from moving around too much in the meantime. The rattle you are hearing could be the heat shield on the rear catalyst. There's a lot of videos on replacing the pan; folks use HondaBond and you should see the correct application temperatures before trying to do it at the wrong temp and having to redo it.
I hope that's the case. I have a shop manual in CD format so I'll have the right instructions handy.

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I took my jpipe many times and put it back with out issue, there were no leaks.
The fact that it worked for you without gaskets doesn't mean there are no gaskets. I mean they are like 6-8 bucks a piece, not a huge price to pay for peace of mind to avoid additional disassembly and reassembly after. It's like the water pump: when you change the TB, you can leave the old pump as is if there are no leaks. But do you really want to spend all this time and effort for disassembling the TB again in case the pump starts leaking after? I sure don't, but that just might be me, of course.

The bolts on mine is rusted to hell. I ordered nut extractor sockets from Amazon. I'll see if those can remove it.
Yeah, that's pretty common. You are better off with a torch, but nut extractor might work as well. It's just there's not much space there to work with. But let us know how it goes! Hopefully, you can get it off with no further issues.
 

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The fact that it worked for you without gaskets doesn't mean there are no gaskets. I mean they are like 6-8 bucks a piece, not a huge price to pay for peace of mind to avoid additional disassembly and reassembly after. It's like the water pump: when you change the TB, you can leave the old pump as is if there are no leaks. But do you really want to spend all this time and effort for disassembling the TB again in case the pump starts leaking after? I sure don't, but that just might be me, of course.

Yeah, that's pretty common. You are better off with a torch, but nut extractor might work as well. It's just there's not much space there to work with. But let us know how it goes! Hopefully, you can get it off with no further issues.
This is my advice ;) it will be fine. It is long lasting, same thing goes for cat gaskets(and they are real gaskets, not rings/donuts) There was no difference new vs old...
Did you ever tried to take that ring out? genuine question.
 

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I removed the middle exhaust before to reseal the oil pump and yes you need a new metal gaskets. The old metal gasket will break or crack when you try to remove it. If you try to reuse the old one you will have exhaust leaks!
Removing the oil pain is not any easy job and putting it is a lot tougher because if wiggle the oil pan too much while trying to lining you could mess up the liquid Honda bond and you will have a leak.


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That piece is stuck to the the bottom of the oil pan, there is always some sludge there. Oil pump pickup tube has fine screen mesh on the bottom so even if it gets sucked into it it will stay there. Big chunks are not a problem, fine particles that can pass thru the oil filter are bad for the engine.
 
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