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Yesterday I got in my mdx and it wouldn't turn over!
Battery was charged but it would not start.
Got towed into the dealer then it started up and they called me to say it was ready but they found nothing wrong!
I left it there overnight to see what happens this morning .
Keep you posted on this issue.
 

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I had a similar issue, but after the X sat for 10 days at the airport. Battery was good, it would not start. I had al the right lights coming on, but no ignition. Then I noticed the brake pedal was ROCK hard. I pressed the brake pedal very hard and it started. Almost like the brakes were bled down and not completing the start circuit.
 

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see my post on hard brake pedal - you need a new Brake Booster control valve - not exactly sure on name of part - my 2014 MDX goes in for repair Monday, others have had success with part I am mentioning

My dealer found the fix

Ask your dealer to call Acura engineering for fix
 

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If you got dead silence when keyswitch turned to Start, the ignition switch assy may be faulty. Check blk/wht small wire to the starter solenoid for 12V start signal when keyswitch turned to Start. If 12V missing, the ignition switch assy is problem. This can be intermittent.

If you get a loud click but no starter turnover of engine, the starter solenoid is the fault and starter must be replaced.

good luck
 

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Got same problem!!

Yesterday I got in my mdx and it wouldn't turn over!
Battery was charged but it would not start.
Got towed into the dealer then it started up and they called me to say it was ready but they found nothing wrong!
I left it there overnight to see what happens this morning .
Keep you posted on this issue.
I just had EXACT same problem with my 2014 MDX with ~12k miles

Drove home from work around 7pm on Wed. and next day 5pm car wouldn't start. Parked in garage and definitely no unclosed door (I lock my car every time; if door open, it won't lock). I did also notice the hard break pedal but this happens all the time so this time I wasn't too concerned with it.

Tried jump start with my Camry -> didn't work

Had Acura certified towing come. Tried again using his portable jump start -> remarkably car started at 2nd try

Was then able to drive to dealership on my own. After 80min wait, they said ALL 59-point inspection passed, battery way over "pass" line (just after 10min drive from home to dealership), engine starter looks good, and no drawn from electrical circuit.

Leaving the dealership, I tried turning engine on and off several cycles but couldn't repeat the issue...

Looking at TexasHonda's post, I think maybe it's the starter solenoid... Because when it happens, I keep hearing clicking (system booting) sound but engine just wouldn't start. Maybe I should call dealership and have them change it anyway.

My wife is pregnant and due next month. I can't afford any glitch like this when the time comes!! Any other ideas??
 

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^^ I wouldn't expect a dealer to replace the starter (the solenoid is part of the starter assembly on most cars - don't know about the MDX) just because you want them to when their diagnostic result indicates no problem with it.

When you say you hear 'clicking (system booting)' that doesn't point to a starter solenoid issue necessarily and is different than hearing the actual solenoid clicking sound for starting issues.

If the battery voltage was fine then trying to jump start it from another vehicle or portable unit would be pointless. This is easily checked with a voltmeter if you have one. If you don't have one you might want to get one (they're not expensive).

If pushing the start button resulted in turning the vehicle to 'ON' but didn't start it and everything seemed to be working fine with the infotainment, etc. then there's a good chance it's not a battery but rather, the brake pedal position switch.

Are you 'sure' it wasn't the 'hard brake pedal' problem? It's unfortunate the lawyers got involved and required the starting design to require a foot on the brake since this just adds one more potential failure point. All vehicles can present a hard brake pedal over time due to loss of vacuum while it's just sitting there but even with 'no' vacuum the pedal needs to be able to move enough to still make the 'brake pedal pushed' switch to allow the engine to start (which will then create more vacuum in the booster). From reading posts on this forum it seems that the MDX might be particularly sensitive in this area - as if the switch isn't properly positioned and requires more pedal movement than it should. I've had the hard brake pedal sometimes but have never had any problem starting the vehicle due to it but others have reported issues. I'd be more concerned about the switch positioning than the actual hard pedal or vacuum loss since the latter isn't unusual and will happen on all vehicles eventually - especially as they age or in various temperatures conditions when rubber items don't seal the same at 20 degrees as they do at 80 degrees. This phenomenon is further exacerbated because of the variability on people breaking the vacuum simply by putting the foot on the brake after the engine is off, which they might do sometimes and not others even if they don't realize it, and the amount of pressure on the brake pedal when starting it - i.e. one person may apply more pressure than another and may apply different pressure at different times.

I wish there was an easy way to bypass the need for the brake pedal push on the starting process - at least for an emergency or diagnostic situation. I think some vehicles actually have a way to do this but I'm not aware of a way to do it for the MDX. 'SuperTech' would know but even if he does he might not be able to say.

Outside of the brake pedal and starter itself and the battery there are other variables such as fuses, starter relay, battery cable connections (including the ends that go to the vehicle ground and the starter. Some of these could be an issue as well but aren't as common.
 

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If the battery voltage was fine then trying to jump start it from another vehicle or portable unit would be pointless. This is easily checked with a voltmeter if you have one. If you don't have one you might want to get one (they're not expensive).
Yeah. Seem like an easy thing to do but to be honest I really didn't think of that. Maybe I was still shocked that thing like this can happen to a 8 month new car. I'll remember next time it happens. :D

If pushing the start button resulted in turning the vehicle to 'ON' but didn't start it and everything seemed to be working fine with the infotainment, etc. then there's a good chance it's not a battery but rather, the brake pedal position switch.

Are you 'sure' it wasn't the 'hard brake pedal' problem?
Good point. I do think the brake pedal position switch was engaged because I seems to recall my central info display's "STOP and step on break" light disappeared when stepping on the foot pedal. Then when I press ignite button, I can also hear very short sound (maybe the starter solenoid??) near engine area. It almost sound/feel like when you have the normal key ignition system but you rotate-release key too quickly not allowing engine to ignite.


Anyways, it sounds like I just have to wait until next time it happens... :( After went home from dealership, I also realized that I should have recorded a video of what was going on. I guess I learned my lesson this time. After driving my Camry for 14 yrs, the only issue that I had was battery dead problem so my troubleshooting skill are "limited". haha...

Will keep everyone posted if any new developments.

PS. Thanks so much for the quick and detailed reply. I really appreciate it!
 

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If you got dead silence when keyswitch turned to Start, the ignition switch assy may be faulty. Check blk/wht small wire to the starter solenoid for 12V start signal when keyswitch turned to Start. If 12V missing, the ignition switch assy is problem. This can be intermittent.

If you get a loud click but no starter turnover of engine, the starter solenoid is the fault and starter must be replaced.

good luck
You do know this is a 2014? There is no key switch. But thanks anyways.
 

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You do know this is a 2014? There is no key switch. But thanks anyways.

Thanks for all the feedback. Few days ago I had EXACT same problem AGAIN!! This time the battery was completely drained (none of the light can be turned on and can't even go to acc. mode). I learned my lesson so I had it towed to dealership and they confirmed the battery was drained. But just like before, after jump start, they couldn't find anything that could caused electricity being drawn. They let the car sit at shop for 2 days and still don't see battery drain so tomorrow they are asking me to pick the car up. Now they are starting to "blame" the owner (me) maybe left car in acc. mode or something causing the drain. Basically saying "Nothing wrong with car... it's you that made mistake..." :(

At this point, my theory is that I normally place my keyless fob on the table near my garage entry door. Basically the fob is few feet away from my car with only a metal door separating them. Thus when I open/close garage door, the car may sometimes detects the key which turns on the puddle lights => drains the battery.

Anyway, from tomorrow I'm going to try keep my keys as far away from the car as possible and see if it helps!

Thanks!
 

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Thanks for all the feedback. Few days ago I had EXACT same problem AGAIN!! This time the battery was completely drained (none of the light can be turned on and can't even go to acc. mode). I learned my lesson so I had it towed to dealership and they confirmed the battery was drained. But just like before, after jump start, they couldn't find anything that could caused electricity being drawn. They let the car sit at shop for 2 days and still don't see battery drain so tomorrow they are asking me to pick the car up. Now they are starting to "blame" the owner (me) maybe left car in acc. mode or something causing the drain. Basically saying "Nothing wrong with car... it's you that made mistake..." :(

At this point, my theory is that I normally place my keyless fob on the table near my garage entry door. Basically the fob is few feet away from my car with only a metal door separating them. Thus when I open/close garage door, the car may sometimes detects the key which turns on the puddle lights => drains the battery.

Anyway, from tomorrow I'm going to try keep my keys as far away from the car as possible and see if it helps!

Thanks!

Forgot the mention, on both cases, I left the car at garage for about 2 days without starting. So in those 2 days, I could open/close garage door tons of times "accidentally" trigger the puddle lights. At least that's my theory anyways. :p
 

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my theory is that I normally place my keyless fob on the table near my garage entry door. Basically the fob is few feet away from my car with only a metal door separating them. Thus when I open/close garage door, the car may sometimes detects the key which turns on the puddle lights => drains the battery.
I seriously doubt that's the issue. If you see the excerpt from the owner's manual below (or simply test try it) you'll see that the puddle lights don't stay on long. They're also LED lights I believe and don't draw a lot of current and could likely go a very long time before draining the battery significantly.

From your description this sounds like it's possible it's not the 'exact same problem'. From your older post you indicated that even after trying to jump start it with the Camry and the first pass of the portable jump starter it wouldn't start although it did after the second pass of the portable unit. Either it wasn't really a battery problem then or possibly you didn't wait long enough to attempt to start the vehicle the first couple of times, i.e. wait a few minutes to let the jump connection do a bit of charging up first. You always should give it a few minutes before attempting to do the start.

But this time it does sound like it was a low charge on the battery for sure and most likely you don't have something with similar symptoms but different causes so going with the odds the two issues probably are the same.

A few points in no particular order -
- This could be an issue with the battery itself even though it appears to sometimes work and other times not.
- This could be an issue with the charging system sometimes not providing an adequate charge - likely the alternator.
- The battery and especially the alternator are not typically an issue on a vehicle this new.
- This could be a problem with the battery cables not having a good connection. Not having a good connection can cause the battery to not charge properly and can cause it to not start the car even if the battery itself has a full charge. The reason is that a poor connection doesn't allow enough current to flow and this can change with external factors such as temperature, etc. and can appear to be intermittent like this due to those conditions and jostling of the vehicle, etc. By 'cables' I mean the cable connections at the battery terminals, the starter, the the ground circuit (usually a wire/cable connection from the engine block to the vehicle body) and whatever might be in between (sometimes on the positive lead between the battery and the starter - near the battery - but I don't know specifically on the MDX). A poor connection at any one of these points can cause problems.
- You might have simply left the vehicle turned on to accessory or a door not fully closed or something like the dealer hypothesized.


You really should get a voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery periodically since you're having this problem and it's still questionable as to what the cause is. A voltmeter isn't expensive and can be used to readily determine if a battery has an adequate charge on it. You could, for example, check it after it's been sitting overnight and then check it when it's been sitting undriven for a few days. It should read about the same. Also, if you have the starting problem again you can check the voltage yourself and have a better idea if it's the battery being low on charge again.
Finally, you might want to get yourself a battery charger just in case you might need it and don't always want to invest the hours it takes to get a tow truck to show up and either tow your car or start it.


From the owner's manual -
When you go into the keyless access system working range with all the doors locked, the LED puddle lights come on for 30 seconds. The lights do not come on if you have previously stayed within the range for more than two minutes, or the doors have been locked for a few days.
 

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hello all,
had the same problem twice in the last 6 months. First time i jump started the car. took to dealer and couldnt find any problems. Yesterday same problem. Noticed the hard brake pedal push. took to dealer and they cant find problem. will call and have them check ignition switch assembly, brake pedal push switch, and battery cables at various points. this is very frustrating to say the least.........
 

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same thing

We have a 2014 MDX, 6700 miles, with the same problem. On the 2nd trip to the dealer they replaced the brake booster and a vacuum hose. On the 3rd time back for the same problem they adjusted the brake pedal sensitivity. The 1st time in they had never heard of the problem. Strange. The dealer has treated us well with a new loaner each time but for such a "high quality" vehicle it is very disappointing. Also ended up with a scratch on the headlight lens but of course they did not do it and Acura will not replace. :confused::mad:
 

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I have been dealing with this battery issue for the last 3 years. I've traded out the battery multiple times, so many that AutoZone replaced my last one at no charge, a one-for-one. I've even had the alternator changed out. We continue to have this problem to this day, but the dealer can't find the issue....WTF???? I honestly believe this is a manufacture problem and wondering if and when will Acura recall. Probably never because it would put them in a rough spot financially, imagine how many MDX's are out there with this current problem. UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
 

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Sometimes when you jump start a car with so so jumper cables, it may not start right away, need to let it charge a little bit or have other driver rev up the engine a little bit.
 

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I have been dealing with this battery issue for the last 3 years. I've traded out the battery multiple times, so many that AutoZone replaced my last one at no charge, a one-for-one. I've even had the alternator changed out. We continue to have this problem to this day, but the dealer can't find the issue....WTF???? I honestly believe this is a manufacture problem and wondering if and when will Acura recall. Probably never because it would put them in a rough spot financially, imagine how many MDX's are out there with this current problem. UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
There mdx has only been out 2 years. How have you been dealing with the problem 3 years? Also,if you are dealing with autozone. You don't have an original battery. What's your rant about? What manufacturing problem?
 

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Any resolution to this issue? My 2014 MDX with only 15K miles did this 3 times in one day. After the second time, we took it to the dealer, they charged the battery and said everything was ok. Then it happened again a 3rd time and had to get jump started to get home again. Very frustrating, not only because this is suppose to be a "dependable" vehicle, but the service knowledge at the dealerships are horrible.
 

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I am facing the same problem today. Car is parked in my garage for about 3 weeks and today when we returned from vacation car would not start. Brake paddle is rock solid. Tried to jump start but would not start. I am thinking of buying a AC battery changer and see if it works. Any suggestions?
 
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