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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

Wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with this or might be able to help me isolate the problem.

My Sisters 2004 MDX was stalling out on her when she would come to a stop at first. It seemed like it was the catalytic converter throwing codes and just causing it to stall out when put under load with low RPMS. We replaced the upstream and downstream catalytic converter and everything seemed fine when we test drove it. Gave it back to her and on her way back she came to a stop light and it started to stall out again when stopped. She got it to a parking lot and left it for me to look at the next day. When I went to see if I could get it to move to at least position it for a tow truck it would start and idle perfect when sitting in park not in gear. As soon as I would move it to reverse or drive it would "drop" into gear and put so much load on the engine that it would stall. The next time when I went to put it in reverse I pushed the break down and gave it some gas and it would push its way in to gear. When I would do that it would try to move in reverse but the break obviously kept it from moving. After the initial forced change in to gear it would idle perfectly fine in gear and I could drive it around and even change gears a couple times until it would stall out on the change or when coming to a complete stop. We also decided to risk the drive home since it was mostly highway and could be accomplished without stopping and we were able to drive it 20 miles at high speed (75 mph) with no problem. We also could navigate neighborhood driving without an issues, but as soon as we would come to a stop or try and change gears we would end up with a problem.

My guess is that it is an issue with the transmission or the torque converter. Although it would be my first transmission job, I am mechanically inclined enough and have access to a lift to complete the job regardless of how long it takes. But I dont want to spend a couple hundred dollars on a new transmission or fixing the old one when it could possibly be something simple. Any help isolating the issue would be very much appreciated. FYI there are currently no codes being thrown by the OBDII.

Thanks!
 

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Hey Yacko.

Yes is very important for us not to start trowing parts in for repair if we have not confirm the problem for sure first.
With no codes being display my advice is having a high-end scanner connected to the vehicle whiles is being driving,
then you will be able to see all the data from all the input sensors and what is the output from then.
Since the vehicle is stalling at a stop then you should have no problem duplicated it with the scan tool hook up to the
vehicle. A experience tech will know what are a good and bad data readings causing the vehicle to stall.

Good Luck!
 

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Your guess about the TC could be right. If it stays in lockup, it can cause the symptom you describe. Normal TC operation is lockup at about 45 MPH under light throttle. You can feel it and see the rpm drop on the tach. It feels like it's shifting into a sixth gear. It will usually set a p0740 code when faulty.


1. Change the ATF. Use only genuine Honda/Acura fluid. You can source it from a dealer, or Carquest. About 8 bucks a quart is a fair retail price. Get an automotive paint strainer (Disposable type) and run the old fluid through it when you drain. Inspect the strainer as well as the magnet on the drain plug for excessive metal, etc. A small bit on the magnet is normal. Lots of debris probably means big $$$. Save it to show a trans. shop if you are going to have it rebuilt.

2. Test and inspect the lockup solenoid. Look for any debris that may be making it stick.

A sticking EGR Valve can also create your symptom. Remove, clean, and inspect. You can drive the vehicle with it disconnected as a test, but it will throw a code.

Swapping out the trans is a bit tough without the trans. jack adaptor. Another option is to drop the complete engine/trans/sub frame using a lift. It's a great time to do the T- Belt if it's due.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When was the Valves last adjusted?
forbin,

To my knowledge the valves have never been adjusted, it was my sisters car so I was never involved with any maintenance except for when larger issues occurred that would prevent it from driving.

Another little piece of info I forgot to include is that probably a month or two before this happened i replaced the radiator because when my sister was driving the connection for the transmission fluid into the radiator blew out and it lost pretty much all of the fluid. She pulled over as soon as she could which was maybe a block, but mentioned it wouldn't get out of first gear. From there we had it towed to my friends place who has the lift and then got it into the garage by using a front loader so as not to need to turn the car on and put it in gear without any fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jorge,

I agree with not just starting to plug in parts and hoping for the best, especially in regard to a transmission because even getting a transmission off of a totaled car is pretty expensive. Ill be honest my normal solution at least with my car is if something isn't working, I just replace everything that it could be because the price for all the parts considering I am doing the repairs is negligible. I have been looking into getting a scanner, do you know of any that would perform the function you described at a reasonable price. I know some scanners get into the thousands, but if there is something reasonable that will perform the majority of these functions at a reasonable price I would love to pick one up.

In the mean time, I am going to inquire to see if I can find a mechanic that would be ok with trying to do some diagnosis and will get back if I get an answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bluepill,

I definitely recall just getting transmission fluid from Pepe boys. I didn't cheap out and I looked to make sure it was rated for Honda/Acura vehicles. Ill work on draining it so see how much metal debris come out and replace it with some from the dealer. Luckily I know the GM of the one by my parents.

I am going to research and check the lock solenoid. That seems to make sense as it always seemed like something was sticking, but once I gave it power when I shifted into gear it was able to break lose from that and drive normally.

EGR wouldnt hurt to do either, I doubt my sister ever had that serviced or cleaned.

And as far as swapping out the transmission my dad really isn't all for it because he has seen to many instances where you put in all that work and money for it just to fail again, and again, and again. So unless I can find out and fix something that dosent involve drooping the transmission as much as I would love to, we are going to end up parting out the car.

Hopefully I can get to this sooner rather than later and Ill make sure to drop back and give updates.
 

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Pep boys 'Honda Acura' might not be the right fluid, my repair guy only uses Honda Brand Tranny fluid, he said that the other don't work properly.
 

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Hey,

Wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with this or might be able to help me isolate the problem.

My Sisters 2004 MDX was stalling out on her when she would come to a stop at first. It seemed like it was the catalytic converter throwing codes and just causing it to stall out when put under load with low RPMS. We replaced the upstream and downstream catalytic converter and everything seemed fine when we test drove it. Gave it back to her and on her way back she came to a stop light and it started to stall out again when stopped. She got it to a parking lot and left it for me to look at the next day. When I went to see if I could get it to move to at least position it for a tow truck it would start and idle perfect when sitting in park not in gear. As soon as I would move it to reverse or drive it would "drop" into gear and put so much load on the engine that it would stall. The next time when I went to put it in reverse I pushed the break down and gave it some gas and it would push its way in to gear. When I would do that it would try to move in reverse but the break obviously kept it from moving. After the initial forced change in to gear it would idle perfectly fine in gear and I could drive it around and even change gears a couple times until it would stall out on the change or when coming to a complete stop. We also decided to risk the drive home since it was mostly highway and could be accomplished without stopping and we were able to drive it 20 miles at high speed (75 mph) with no problem. We also could navigate neighborhood driving without an issues, but as soon as we would come to a stop or try and change gears we would end up with a problem.

My guess is that it is an issue with the transmission or the torque converter. Although it would be my first transmission job, I am mechanically inclined enough and have access to a lift to complete the job regardless of how long it takes. But I dont want to spend a couple hundred dollars on a new transmission or fixing the old one when it could possibly be something simple. Any help isolating the issue would be very much appreciated. FYI there are currently no codes being thrown by the OBDII.

Thanks!
I am experiencing some of the same issues with my 2011 MDX. It was reading low oil right before I needed an oil change about 4 weeks ago. It was determined that carbon deposits or build-up on the pistons were causing the oil to evaporate or something. No oil leak at all. The dealership put an additive in the oil that would help with the carbon. 2 or 3 days later the engine shuts off when the vehicle was shifted to Drive. This happened 3 consecutive times before my wife was able to keep the car running when put in drive. The dealer thought it was the crank shaft sensor and reprogrammed it.When I got it back, the next day the engine fluttered as if it was going to shut down, but kept running. It was later determined that the engine valves needed to be adjusted (something that typically happens to MDXs with 90K+ miles). My vehicle has 75.6K miles. I start the car and put it in drive the next morning after the engine valve adjustments and it shut off three times. The third time it shut off while I was on the phone with the dealer. They could not duplicate the problem after having it from Saturday - Saturday, but re programmed the crank shaft sensor again and cleaned any carbon that was found, stating that it may have been out of whack again after the vales were adjusted. The next morning the vehicle was put in reverse and the engine fluttered as if it was going to shut off. that was the only instance that day. The following day -Monday 2.18.19- there was no issue. Today -Tuesday 2.19.19- There was a noticeable drop in the engine, but no shut off. It happened again to my wife at 8AM this morning when she attempted to drive off. I do not know why the dealer could not get this to happen over a 7 day time period of having the car and starting it every morning and shifting the gear to drive.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks,
Branden
 
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