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MDX 2003-195K miles. Compressor makes clacking noise-louder when car started. Local mechanic in Virginia wants $1300 to replace compressor. Since I will keep the car for another year, I do not want to spend that much $$ on a new compressor. Is there a way I can "disengage" the compressor so it does not make noise? Also, someone told me that it may just be the clutch. Is that possible if it makes noise and does not seem to seize up? Help! Thanks.
 

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If it’s the clutch and not seized to the compressor (and it really is the compressor making the noise) you should be able to electrically disconnect the clutch and the sound should go away.

With key out of ignition, engine off, you can pull the clutch relay - it’s the one shown as MG Clutch Relay in the engine fuse box. (Pics from 2006 X).

Or, with key out, engine off, you can disconnect the power at the compressor. Link shows the Denso and electrical connector.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...5,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor,6628

Good luck!
 

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Thank you so much LeftOverParts. I removed the MG clutch Relay, but still get the noise from the compressor. Does that mean that something in the compressor still spinning because of the drive belt? If I continue to drive without fixing the compressor, will I cause any further damage elsewhere? Thanks.
 

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Hard to say without seeing/hearing it.

If the clacking is because something is loose or knocking on the inside of the compressor, the damage is probably already done. You could be getting fragments that would clog your lines or expansion valve but since you’re not going to fix it, really doesn’t matter. I suppose there is a risk of it seizing and then your drive belt goes cause the compressor won’t turn anymore.

The other possibility is that the bearing on the pulley is going - and maybe that’s why your mechanic just wanted to change the compressor. Did the repair estimate mention anything? Or did they give you any advice or options if you don’t fix it? (I didn’t see clutched or pulley/bearing assemblies on rockauto but the dealer might have them.)

The next thing that could be tried if you or a friend have some mechanical ability and tools is to remove the drive belt off the pulley and grab the pulley to see it it wobbles or clacks as you spin it by hand. The belt is pretty easy to untension. There are a number of youtubes out there that show how to change a drive belt. You could remove the belt off just the ac pulley. If it falls off, can be tricky to rethread correctly so you might want to take some pictures. (Or have a different mech check.)

If it is the pulley bearing, it could fail and then the pulley stays on and wobbles like crazy or comes off. Either case is not good for the drive belt which also drives the power steering and alternator.

One option to consider is buying a junker compressor that spins without the clacking or wobble so it just acts a pulley for the drive belt. Guessing labor might be $150-$200 to evacuate any Freon and change it out plus the junker part. The link has compressors for $25-$40+shipping. You could contact one of the yards and ask them to confirm that it spins freely, without wobble.

Search Results

Sorry I can’t be more specific. It’s a guess with the information available. If the original mech didn’t mention it, you could go back to them and ask if they think it will hold up. Or find another mech and pay for a diagnosis ($100?) and ask their opinion.

Good luck!
 

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Before you spend TOO much money or time trying to work around a bad compressor, you might be better of just biting the bullet and putting in a "new" (read "junkyard") compressor. Spending money trying to bypass the compressor is money that's gone forever, and the lack of a working A/C is going to reduce the selling price of your car by more than the replacement will cost.


The one thing you have to think about is how the compressor failed - if it threw gobs of shrapnel into the inside of the A/C hoses and pipes (and condenser and drier and evaporator) then the repair costs can get kind of painful. OTOH, if it's just a bearing that hasn't resulted in the compressor shelling itself internally, then it's not a huge deal (though it's a truly fiddly job). I've done it on other cars (with easier-to-reach compressors) and would figure 2-3 hours to install the new compressor, pull a vacuum on the system while checking for leaks, then refill it. $1200 sounds like a lot, but maybe he saw something that made him think he would have to replace more than just the compressor.
 

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Last September I replaced ac compressor on 03 MDX w/ used compressor due to clutch failure (complete melt down of rubber bushing). I removed alternator and PS pump to access ac compressor from above. Underneath access also necessary to reach lower compressor mount bolts.

Afterwards I found a video of ac compressor removal for Honda Odyssey that performs most work from underside. Odyssey engine/setup of very similar to MDX.



good luck
 

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With 195K miles, not wanting to keep the X too long, or pay $1300, sounds like the delete option from Bluepill to bypass the ac pulley could be an economical solution. Granted car value would drop some without the ac.

The stock belt is a 6 groove, W belt, 0.82 inches wide. Dayco shows belt data.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=960717&cc=1429095&jsn=1486

From Bluepill's link, a 69.5 inch belt is discussed but no part numbers are given. Here's one that's a 6 groove, W belt, 0.82 inches wide. Fits a 07-08 Chrysler Pacifica and other cars.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=960438&cc=1441384&jsn=1633

If taking this route, might be best to buy from a local parts shop like autozone or oreillys and visually check the belt. If you didn't want to tackle this yourself, thinking if you explained this to a mech and showed them the belt diagram, they might do it ($150?).

Good luck! Tell us which way you decided.
 

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MDX 2003-195K miles. Compressor makes clacking noise-louder when car started. Local mechanic in Virginia wants $1300 to replace compressor. Since I will keep the car for another year, I do not want to spend that much $$ on a new compressor. Is there a way I can "disengage" the compressor so it does not make noise? Also, someone told me that it may just be the clutch. Is that possible if it makes noise and does not seem to seize up? Help! Thanks.
The belt to bypass the compressor is 70.5 k6
 
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