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2016 MDX
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Only had to cut out one bolt. The two bolts I got from the junkyard came out with no issue. Being a southern MDX, I thought this would be easier. Only took the weekend, but they are done. Pics, because everyone likes pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If things go smoothly, it takes about an hour a side. If it doesn't, well time will tell.
 

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2006 MDX Touring Navi+DVD
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In addition to replacing the LCA, did you also replace the CV axle? What else did you replace? Specifically, which bolt had to be cut out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did replace the CV axle on driver side, because the boot was torn. I could have rebooted it, but just got a new axle instead. The bolt circled in red was the one I cut along the yellow line. it left me enough to grab and turn the bolt piece the rest of the way out. My bolt had siezed inside of the sleeve, no way penetrating oil or anything else is going to work. I ended up heating it with a torch, which allowed the sleeve to break free, and the bolt was loosening, which opened the gap wide enough for me to the the grinder in there to cut the bolt. I also ground the bolt head off, which allowed me to pry the LCA out.
 

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I just did a full rebuild on the front end on an 06 w/ 196k miles (LCA's, inner/outer tie rods, rebuilt the struts, sway bar links, CV axles). This was replacing all original parts that were all rusted and had never been touched

Tips:
  • Didn't have to cut any LCA bolts, just use a long breaker bar and they'll come lose. do NOT cut them out if you don't have too, would not be fun or easy to remove those. Soak with PB Blaster if needed, I didn't have to
  • To get the LCA back in, line up the rear bolt first (the vertical one that screws up from the bottom), but once the threads are started don't tighten them the whole way yet. Then do the fronts LCA bolt (that screws in from the front side of the car).
  • Use blue loctite on the strut bolts if you remove/replace them, I didn't at first and they came a little loose when driving it 10 min to get an alignment - the wheel rocked back and forth (left/right) as a result.
  • Sway bar links had to be cut. Use an angle grinder or cutoff saw and make a cut on the socket part on each end of the sway bar link that the ball joint sits in (be careful not to cut the brake lines which are close to these), once there's a cut in it, you can just use a hammer to smack it off and expose the shiny ball joint. Once you have access to the ball you can use vice grips to hold it in place while you remove the but from the sway bar link.
  • Axles on drivers side was easy to pry out, passenger side was a pain due to a cover around it (can't get a pry bar behind it like you can on drivers side). Ultimately I ended up breaking the passenger side and the inside end of the CV was left stuck in the mid axle. What I ended up having to do was drill a 1/2" hole in the metal 'cup' that was left after it broke (you'll know what I mean if it happens to you), and then attached a chain to it, with the other end of the chain wrapped around a mini-sledge (since I don't have a slide hammer) and started yanking on it. Jerked it a few times and it popped out. Having a slide hammer would have been easier, but still nothing to attach it to, so drilling the hole in the metal cup was easiest thing to do.
  • Not sure if this was a result of the issue above, but reinserting the passenger side CV axle was also a pain, due to a snap ring that was attached to the end of the mid-axle and appeared to be slightly loose, which was preventing me from pushing the passenger side CV back in. I ultimately removed that snap ring with snap ring pliers, pounded it tighter (and back into round, it had become kinda oval), and put it back on, centered it on the mid-axle as best i could (gravity make it want to drop down), and then gently pushed the CV back onto it (took a few attempts since you're doing it blindly by design). When you get it on right you'll know, you feel it snap into place
 

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2016 MDX
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My Milwaukee cordless impact has 1100 foot pounds of torque, it was not budging.
 

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My Milwaukee cordless impact has 1100 foot pounds of torque, it was not budging.
A couple items....

1) What the heck on an MDX needs over half a ton of torque to tighten adequately? I'm coming up with nuthin'...
2) Most impacts have a MUCH bigger "off torque" than "on torque". For example, my "wired" impact has 1,100 foot pounds of torque removing a fastener, but "only" 300 foot pounds installing one. That's fine, because accidentally applying 1,100 foot pounds of torque to almost any bolt is going to have "bad consequences".
3) Unless Milwaukee has a secret line of products, they don't have anything remotely close to that range of torque in a cordless impact (at least not that I've seen). The max is about 2.000 INCH/pounds (or 167 foot/pounds, and those are pretty pricey).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1) What the heck on an MDX needs over half a ton of torque to tighten adequately? I'm coming up with nuthin'...
2) Most impacts have a MUCH bigger "off torque" than "on torque". For example, my "wired" impact has 1,100 foot pounds of torque removing a fastener, but "only" 300 foot pounds installing one. That's fine, because accidentally applying 1,100 foot pounds of torque to almost any bolt is going to have "bad consequences".
3) Unless Milwaukee has a secret line of products, they don't have anything remotely close to that range of torque in a cordless impact (at least not that I've seen). The max is about 2.000 INCH/pounds (or 167 foot/pounds, and those are pretty pricey).
1) I have nothing either. I was talking about trying to get that bolt out. ie loosen
2) I know, I was talking about reverse torque.
3) I don't know about any secret line of products.
 
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