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Is there any way to configure either of the two front power outlets (preferably the one in the console) to be hot all the time? I am looking for the same solution for my wife's 2000 TL.

Thanks
 

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Doug;

I was thinking the same thing, but never really spent the time to figure it out.

I've got the schematics, but when I looked I didn't see an 'easy' solution. (Like a relay to jumper, etc.) My recollection is that there is a common point for alot of the accessories, and any jumpers would keep them on too. I think it would require cutting the feed to the accessory outlet and finding hot, fused line.

Kind of sucks for keeping cell phones charged, no?

Let me check again later this week and I'll post what I find.

Ard
 

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power outlet

Yeah what's the deal with that? Why would they have them go off when the cars turned off? I think they should have at least one stay on all the time. I'm not going to mess with it though. Something will probably get screwed up and I'll be screwed. I'll just keep as it is. Gee aren't you glad I said that.
lmeans
 

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I believe it is a philosophical thing with different manufacturers:

On the one hand, a live outlet is convenient, and lets you power phones, CD/Audio, Refridgerators.

On the other hand, you CAN run the battery down and find yourself stranded.

Every Acura I've been in has them switched off with ignition off.

Fords leave em live.

Both are fused, so it isn't a safety issue. (Unless you plug in a barbeque starter and leave it...)

Ard
 

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I'd sure like to know if the console outlet can be made live as well. I was used to leaving my cell phone in my vehicle to charge. Now I have to take the $#%@ thing in every night and charge it. Sometimes I forget it in the charger and end up phoneless for the day.

I'm thinking of running new wires through the firewall and installing a real, usable outlet.
 

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Since I have no MDX, I can't speak specifically to the vehicle - but in my old car, the outlet was wired to the fuse box. All I did was do a little creative wiring there to bring 12V straight to that fuse leg, and I was set.

Again - don't know if this will help you, since I don't know if all those outlets are fused to the box, or even on the same circuit for that matter.
 

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I don't think this is a design flaw. I think this is a philisophical difference.

Most domestic cars leave the power outlet (cigarette lighter) on ALL the time.

Most Japanese cars do not.

Why the difference? If you happen to leave something plugged in that really drains the battery (say a laptop computer, etc) you will come out the next morning to a dead car battery.

I generally like it functioning this way. I charge my phone at home in the base stand, and quick charge it (if needed) while I'm driving (with the engine running). Plus most digital phones these days with LI-Ion batteries last for days.

Again, it's just a different philosophy.
 

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Sorry, couldn't resist...

Hey Atlanta:
Glad to hear you drive with the engine running. Probably hurts your gas mileage though!

Happy Trails
 

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AtlantaMDX said:
I don't think this is a design flaw. I think this is a philisophical difference.

Most domestic cars leave the power outlet (cigarette lighter) on ALL the time.

Most Japanese cars do not.

Why the difference? If you happen to leave something plugged in that really drains the battery (say a laptop computer, etc) you will come out the next morning to a dead car battery.

I generally like it functioning this way. I charge my phone at home in the base stand, and quick charge it (if needed) while I'm driving (with the engine running). Plus most digital phones these days with LI-Ion batteries last for days.

Again, it's just a different philosophy.

I agree it's a design philosophy. I would just like to implement a work-around. My Dodge's main cigarette lighter outlet was switched while the power outlet was not. This was a good combination. I had the radar detector plugged into the switched outlet and the phone in the always on outlet.

Tonight I tried putting a power lead from the passenger seat fuse over to the accessory fuse in the fuse box by the floor (passenger side), but power still only gets through with the key turned to accy or on.

I wonder if anyone has been successful rewiring this or implementing a work-around.
 

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After a quick look at the schematics, it appears that you could pull wire I16 off the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box, and attach it to G11.

Understand that in doing this, you may:

-kill your battery
-void your warrantee
-fry your electrical system
-burn your MDX to ashes
-hurt or kill yourself or someone else, somehow
-etc., etc.

And you would not have anyone to blame but yourself, and especially not me!

Seriously! Don't even think of doing anything that some guy suggested on the internet!

Sheesh!
 

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Has anyone found a way to configure the front or console power outlets to be hot all the time?
 

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Hey Jerry-

Man, this is an old thread...

I'd forgotten about this until someone asked me for schematics earlier this week for a radar detector hookup- I realized I never did fix if for my wife to have no excuses for a dead phone!

I'll try to look at it this week and if successful, post something (so you too can blow up your battery and void your warranty...)

Adam

PS Anything *I* post WILL have the appropriate disclaimers...
 

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Any luck

This is one of my big pet peeves -- has anyone had any luck figuring out how to wire this as always on?
 

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Looking in the electrical manual, it ain't easy! Fuse 9 (15A) in the the under-dash fuse/relay box on the passenger's side feeds through the "Accessory Power Socket Relay" to power the audio unit, nav unit, nav display or multi-information display, the front and console accessory sockets, and the lighter ( if you have one).

You don't want to mess with the relay!!!!!!!!!!!

The console socket does have its own plug (under the console), so you might want to cut its wht/red wire and connect it to pin 11 of connector G of the under-dash fuse/relay box on the passenger's side; there doesn't appear to be anything hooked to that pin, and it does connect to the same fuse. You really ought not to do this if you're not competent with electronics, and if you don't have a copy of the elec. manual.
 

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Manual Error?

Did you notice a discrepancy in the connector numbering?

On page 22-44 the subharness for the 'console accessory power socket' attaches to connector 'C-951'.

Then on page 22-30, it shows 'C-851' to be the connection to that harness.

(Perhaps a global change in connector numbers that didn't get fully propagated?)

Nothing to add to your post- Only way is to run a wire from an unswitched circuit on either passenger or driver side fuse box to the red/wht wire under the console (probably just under the shift trim to get the easiest connector.)


PITA, in my opinion- not worth the trouble (yet)

Adam
 

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Pics?

Does anyone happen to have pics of this procedure if you've done it? I called the local Acura folks to make my 10k check-up/oil change appointment and I asked them about making this mod for me. I was told "I've heard this request before, let me call you back to tell you what it would take." I got a voicemail an hour later - 2.5 hours of labor! It seems quite excessive so if someone has a good guide I'm happy to do it myself and save the $300-ish.
 

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Go to a stereo store

I had mine done at a local stereo store for $80. It took the guy about 30-45 minutes, and it was a super clean job. Search for my other thread on this.
 

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Re: Go to a stereo store

davegood said:
Search for my other thread on this.
Found ithere. Thanks.

I yelled a bit today when I picked up my 'X from the shop. I asked for a detailed quote as to why it'd require so much labor. The service manager came out and told me that I was the first person to ever request this service. He said he'd follow up and double-check that initial estimate. I think he was concerned that I was going to call the regional manager and accuse them of gouging - which wasn't on my mind before but now it is.

-Mike
 

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TheyCallMeBruce said:
Please explain your position regarding altering the relay function, as it looks like a 10 minute job and I plan to do this before the weekend arrives. thanks.
Bruce, if you do please take photos or at least some good notes. The more folks tell me "this is simple" the more I'd like to do it. I'm handy with wiring and electrical myself so as long as I'm told what to do I should be fine.

-Mike
 

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mikedan said:


Bruce, if you do please take photos or at least some good notes. The more folks tell me "this is simple" the more I'd like to do it. I'm handy with wiring and electrical myself so as long as I'm told what to do I should be fine.

-Mike
Oops, need to stop reading when its late, bleary-eyed and buzzed with Coronas. The relay in question does control a number of critical devices. I have a solution, but it may not work for most people. I have a direct battery feed to my aftermarket amps under the driver's seat. I'm going to disconnect the console's socket harness and run a dedicated wire to a fused connection to my amplifier power feed. I'm sorry to say that you'll have to find a more convoluted 12v source at one of the junction boxes.
 
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