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Look Ma, no clamps

14695 Views 58 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  zafer
Thought I'd post a few pics on how to mount the Thule (or Acura) ski rack to the factory rack.

Here is the end result- nice, clean, no clamps around the bars, all fittings are inside the ski rack so they are locked up when the ski rack is closed and locked

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So, here's how you start. Use a screwdriver to pop off the end caps from the factory rack

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You push in with the screwdriver and pust the cap up vertically. This uncovers the slot that runs in the cross member. There is a rubber strip in the slot that gets removed

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Strip coming out

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Then you slide in the square head bolt.

What square head bolt, you say?

This is in the Thule "VWADAPT" kit. (Actually, I made my own and they are a bit longer than the kit.)

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Put in a second bolt, slide them across, add the spacers (these spacers came with the Thule 725 rack).

If you use the VWADAPT kit (with shorter bolts) you might need to cut the plactic spacers down.

Ready to set the rack down.

Keep in mind that any rack accessory (velovise? 599xt, basket, carrier box) that can mount onto a vertical bolt will work.

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Just screw down on the finger t-nuts with the Thule rack. All fittings are contained within the rack, so you don't need tamper-resistant fittings and special tools.

(Getting ready for a dump up in Tahoe this week, I'm looking to ski on Friday...:))

Ard

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Rob-

Send me a PM, I'll see what I can do.

Kevin-

Sure. But if you leave the strip in place the water STILL gets in... The ends are not sealed, so it is open to the atmosphere anyway.

What is the 'base roofrack' anyway? AFAIK, Acura only has one rack.

Really, most of the trim (ie strips on the roof, bumper covers, etc) all allow water behind them.

I suppose you could put the strips back in with holes or cut it to fit between the standoffs, but that is a bit too AR for even me. :)


Ard
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Call Thule customer service- they'll probably ship you a few NC.

The only drawback is that this configuration WILL scratch the anodizing off the rack on the top- too much flexion.

You could also go to a hardware store and pick uip some black delrin rod- 1" diameter. Cut 1/2" slices (like salami) and drill holes- perfect spacers!

Actually, you will probably need to cut the factor spacers in half since your bolts might be too short for a full spacer.

BTW, I always mount the bindings up anyway- But then again there are usually only 3 of us skiing (and if need be, the kids skiis can fit SIDEWAYS! in the back :))

Nice work- pretty clean install - I like the way you can lock the racks thereby locking access to the nuts that hold it to the car!

Ard
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DaleB said:
Very nice install, Ard. Looks much better than those 'angled' clamped on jobs I've seen on MDXs around town.
Thanks...

Can you believe the post is almost 10 months old! I actually forgot I did it.

Ard
Re: whistle noise

zafer said:
I'm back to using cork-board so the ski rack is flush to the MDX's rack. With the spacers, there is a very annoying constant whistle noise, almost at all speeds.
I can't imagine skis 'quieting things down'... When I add the skis it is noisier- also, since it only takes 3-4 minutes, I always remove the ski rack when I don't have skiis to haul-

Ard
Re: Re: Re: whistle noise

zafer said:

The whistle noise is with or without the skis, just the rack with the spacers causes it.
Yes, I know- it is worse with skis on mine. I was responding to your post a few up:

I hope with the skies loaded, the airflow will change to avoid any whistling, can't take 6hrs of that

My comment is that the skis don't help. At least with my MDX and my skis.... :)

With the racks 'lower' using the cork spacers, is it silent with your skis mounted?

Ard
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Re: Re: Factory Racks

norcalchuck said:

However, I suppose locks just keep honest people honest and a determined thief will succeed. Wonder if anyone ever heard of someone simply unbolting the factory rack assembly while the vehicle was, for instance, parked overnight while on a road trip.
If I recall, the factory rack mounts with either hex driver or Torx heads... not quite standard fare-

Of course, a battery powered Sawzall would take ANY rack off!

Or better still, a crowbar on those silling gutter/door sill mounted towers will pry them off.

(Kind of like worring about picking the door lock on a house when a simple whap with a brick will open the pane above!)

Ard

PS I'd never leave valuables out on the roof overnigh, unless it was my driveway!
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The rubber strip is pictured in the photo immediately following the one you quoted.

There is no strip or cover for the 'screwdriver hole'...just a long strip across the top of the rack (ie the width of the roof)

A
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