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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,
I need your help solving this issue that I encounter while replacing LCA n BJ, after I got everything put back the only issue that I have is the hub-dis won't move back to straight up so I can align the struct hole and bolts see photos. In the pictures the hub-disc shouldn't look like that the right side look nice and straight.
Help! help! need your ideas n input on how to get the hub-disc back up to straight so I can align the top struct hole, the bottom hole I have no problem.
Here is what I have done to see if it will work.
1. Loose the struct top 3 nuts to get some slack (no dice).
2. Removed stabilizer bar (no dice).
3. Removed outer tie rod (no dice).

I am running out of ideas and need this car badly to get back to work.
Please share your idea and input thanks alot.
 

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Did you take the jack out of the way? Try moving the jack and pushing down a little. If you have that lower arm lifted up you could be fighting the coil spring. Also if you let the knuckle come to far forward you may have pulled the CV shaft inner joint parts too far out and are hitting that (not from the transmission but inside the boot). Move it around some and it will fall back into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you take the jack out of the way? Try moving the jack and pushing down a little. If you have that lower arm lifted up you could be fighting the coil spring. Also if you let the knuckle come to far forward you may have pulled the CV shaft inner joint parts too far out and are hitting that (not from the transmission but inside the boot). Move it around some and it will fall back into place.
1. Try moving the jack and pushing down a little. (I try remove the jack but did try pushing down I will try that and let you know)
2. If you have that lower arm lifted up you could be fighting the coil spring. ( You think if I push down the LCA will help a little, right now all bolts and nuts are loose on the LCA, stabalizer, outer tie rod)
3. Also if you let the knuckle come to far forward you may have pulled the CV shaft inner joint parts too far out and are hitting that
(I must have move the shaft out to much to be able to fit the BJ bolt into the knuckle. When you say move it around do you mean grab the knuckle or the shaft to move it)
 

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+1 on CV shaft inner joint coming apart. If the knuckle is allowed to fall away with the axle still attached it will pull the joint out. You can try to put it back with it still attached (push the axle inward close to the inner cv boot to see if it will go back in place) but if that doesn't work you will have to remove the axle to fix the inner joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
+1 on CV shaft inner joint coming apart. If the knuckle is allowed to fall away with the axle still attached it will pull the joint out. You can try to put it back with it still attached (push the axle inward close to the inner cv boot to see if it will go back in place) but if that doesn't work you will have to remove the axle to fix the inner joint.
Will try to push the shaft inward to see if it goes in I pretty sure the shaft came out that is the only reason the knuckle wasn't moving inward anymore.
Thanks, for the help I will let you guy know this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you, Shevlin and sj993 for your help I will work on on this weekend to see if will go back.
I really appreciate both of you help, sometime you run into these kind of issue and you are at lost that is when you really need help from other hat has seen it or been there.
 

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wow this lingo is WAY above me!!!- it's like you boys are speaking GREEK- it's my incompetence in this area, that leaves me no option but to get p'OWNED by the Acura Stealership when it comes to major, in-depth repair required at times on my 2009 MDX...thank goodness this message board has ALOT of helpful 2nd MDX contributors on here!!! :29:

I would have surely sold/given up on my 2nd gen. MDX a long, long time ago if this was not the case!!!

<center><img src=https://cparente.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/badmechaniccopyjake.jpg></center>
 

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Discussion Starter #8
wow this lingo is WAY above me!!!- it's like you boys are speaking GREEK- it's my incompetence in this area, that leaves me no option but to get p'OWNED by the Acura Stealership when it comes to major, in-depth repair required at times on my 2009 MDX...thank goodness this message board has ALOT of helpful 2nd MDX contributors on here!!! :29:

I would have surely sold/given up on my 2nd gen. MDX a long, long time ago if this was not the case!!!

<center><img src=https://cparente.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/badmechaniccopyjake.jpg></center>
Can't give up we are all learning and this forum has awesome people to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update on the LCA n BJ, I finally got the knuckle to line up to the struct, big Thanks to Shevlin ang sg993.
I also end up replacing Inner tie rod, outer tie rod, stabilizer bar, front struct, rear shock.
The hardest part for me to replace is the LCA because you have to fiddle the knuckle to line with the ball joint. If it a one man job it will be a little hard I end up needed a second hand helper. The result is looking good I am working on my right side now, here are some photos.
 

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Which LCA brand did you use? OEM or Aftermarket?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Which LCA brand did you use? OEM or Aftermarket?
Aftermarket, from Rockauto $80.79 DORMAN 521894 {#51350STXA04, 51350STXA07} (Daily Driver) Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint
has the cheapest when I purchase mine.
OEM is way too expensive unless you are just replacing the bushing.
 

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Thanks! Where there any visual differences between both? I find the price difference too alarming and I am not confident on the Aftermarket because of it.. MOOG also sells it and it also very cheap considering OEM price.
 

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Is it possible to just replace bushings and ball joints etc? If not, why? I am very surprised the cheaper way is not viable on MDX.
 

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AFAIK: The lower ball joint is not replaceable, You have to replace the entire LCA for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks! Where there any visual differences between both? I find the price difference too alarming and I am not confident on the Aftermarket because of it.. MOOG also sells it and it also very cheap considering OEM price.
No difference at the moment, only had these for couple days, time will tell if these will last or fail.
 
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