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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a working key+fob on my 2010 MDX Advance. Have never had a problem until about a month ago I noticed I was losing range with the auto lock/unlock on the fob. I have to now get really close to the car and sometimes hold the fob up in the air. Sometimes it "seems" like I need to press the button harder, but not quite sure. Even at close range I often need to press the button several times. The other key+fob is working fine and as normal.

I took the fob apart and replaced the battery and that didn't help at all. I recently read several threads on getting a new key, but don't want to go that route if I don't have to.

Since the key is fine, should I just replace the fob or maybe just the fob internals? Would I need to get that reprogrammed at the dealer?
 

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Before you replace the key fob, I would try another new battery, bought from a different place. These batteries aren't the hottest selling items, so there's no saying how many years the battery sat in the store before you bought it. I've gotten several almost dead batteries for these kinds of remotes in the past. Losing range is almost always a battery issue.
 

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I did the same thing and purchase a strip of batteries for my TSX, RDX and MDX. I replace if the range starts to get under 5 feet.

I had the same problem with my driver 1 fob. I tried putting in a new battery with the same results. I was still under warranty and it was replaced. I haven't seen just the internal replacement parts for the fob (just the whole fob with an un-cut key).
 

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I had a similar thing happen with our 07. My fob was not working very well, but the wife's was totally fine. As time went on the memory seats started misbehaving, especially with my fob. And it got worse with time. After a while, the memory seats wouldn't work at all and the windows stopped working. The issue was a bad wire harness between the driver door and fuse box. Since I've replaced that, everything has worked perfectly fine … including my key fob.

Not saying your wire harness is starting to fail, but it could be. Look for other clues besides the fob losing range.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all of the good feedback. FOB #1 is working as usual, but FOB #2 seems to have range issues. I'm going to double check the seat memory behavior and run a few confirmation tests to validate that it really is isolated to FOB #2. The battery replacement I just did on FOB #2 was from a strip I bought on Amazon... I'll see if the packaging has any dates as well. If another battery from that same strip doesn't work I'll grab a new battery from the store (different manufacturer/strip, etc.) before I look at going for a new key.

Since it looks like cutting the new key is the cheap part, I would probably still be out some serious $ to program a new FOB. I.e., doesn't do me much good to have a key FOB case, but malfunctioning FOB internals.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quick update. Changed out the battery again and no luck. The other Key Fob is working just fine so who knows what's going on with this one.

I do have an Acura Care warranty and didn't see the Key Fob listed in the exclusions. I called them and they confirmed the Key Fob is covered if it is malfunctioning.
 

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I too am experiencing low range on my key(Driver 1), will try replacing the battery.

Dumb Question - After changing batter does the FOB require any reprogramming?
 

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To piggyback on this discussion, one of the two key fobs we have has a bad unlock button. The button itself doesn't depress. The lock and rear hatch work fine. I too have an extended service plan and was wondering if this would be covered. I called and the service guy said no. I started reading exclusions and didn't see anywhere that the key is not covered.

The other option would be to order a new switchblade and fob from ebay and just swap the key portion out on each. I am assuming that would work. Can a key be taken out of one fob and put into another? If so, I might go that route because it would cost less than $30 and save me the hassle of fighting with the dealer about this.

Thoughts?
 

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To piggyback on this discussion, one of the two key fobs we have has a bad unlock button. The button itself doesn't depress. The lock and rear hatch work fine. I too have an extended service plan and was wondering if this would be covered. I called and the service guy said no. I started reading exclusions and didn't see anywhere that the key is not covered.

The other option would be to order a new switchblade and fob from ebay and just swap the key portion out on each. I am assuming that would work. Can a key be taken out of one fob and put into another? If so, I might go that route because it would cost less than $30 and save me the hassle of fighting with the dealer about this.

Thoughts?
Old thread but I'm using the search tool and I have the exact same situation. Were you able to swap the key to a new fob?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Old thread but I'm using the search tool and I have the exact same situation. Were you able to swap the key to a new fob?

Swapping a key to a new fob shouldn't be a problem, the entire fob apparatus is all somewhat interchangeable parts. All of these parts are separate:


-FOB internals
-FOB button panel
-Key hinged to FOB case
-Battery


Just grab a mini-screwdriver and take yours apart and see how it is all put together, then decide what parts you may want to swap out.


The three key failure points are the battery, fob internals, and fob buttons. The fob internals swap was covered under warranty (per earlier post I don't think it would be covered in any extended SERVICE plan).
 

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I ended up not even bothering swapping the key. I took the electronics portion of the new fob off and just swapped it to the old switch key/body. Did a quick programing of the fob and done in 10 minutes. Works again, wife happy, I am happy. I kept the new uncut switch key portion in my tool box just in case it is needed down the road, if I toss it I guarantee it would break lol.

Last week I did and oil change, shocks, struts, alignment, fixed the FOB & detailed it. Don't even want to guess what a dealer would have cost to have all that work done......

Nice avatar by the way, my wife's favorite beer, Delirium Tremens! I over did it on that beer years ago, I still can't drink it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ended up not even bothering swapping the key. I took the electronics portion of the new fob off and just swapped it to the old switch key/body. Did a quick programing of the fob and done in 10 minutes. Works again, wife happy, I am happy. I kept the new uncut switch key portion in my tool box just in case it is needed down the road, if I toss it I guarantee it would break lol.

Last week I did and oil change, shocks, struts, alignment, fixed the FOB & detailed it. Don't even want to guess what a dealer would have cost to have all that work done......

Nice avatar by the way, my wife's favorite beer, Delirium Tremens! I over did it on that beer years ago, I still can't drink it.

Nice! Got a lot done! How many miles did you have on the shocks and struts, I assume originals and this is the first time replacement?


Funny note on Delirium Tremens! It was my gateway from domestic beer to good beer circa 2003. I don't drink it or Belgians that much any more, mostly stick to local craft stuff, but it had its place and time.
 

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I ended up not even bothering swapping the key. I took the electronics portion of the new fob off and just swapped it to the old switch key/body. Did a quick programing of the fob and done in 10 minutes. Works again, wife happy, I am happy. I kept the new uncut switch key portion in my tool box just in case it is needed down the road, if I toss it I guarantee it would break lol.

Last week I did and oil change, shocks, struts, alignment, fixed the FOB & detailed it. Don't even want to guess what a dealer would have cost to have all that work done......

Nice avatar by the way, my wife's favorite beer, Delirium Tremens! I over did it on that beer years ago, I still can't drink it.


How did you program it?
 

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How did you program it?

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

2 Within 1-4 seconds push the transmitter lock or the unlock button.

3 Within 1-4 seconds turn the ignition switch OFF

4 Within 1-4 seconds turn the ignition switch ON (II).

5 Within 1-4 seconds push the transmitter lock or the unlock buttin.

6. Within 1-4 seconds turn the ignition switch OFF.

7. Within 1-4 seconds turn the ignition switch ON (II).

8. Within 1-4 seconds push the transmitter lock or the unlock button.

9. Within 1-4 seconds turn the ignition switch OFF.

10. Within 1-4 seconds turn the ignition switch ON (II).

11. Within 1-4 seconds push the transmitter lock or the unlock button.

12. Confirm you can hear the sound on the door lock actuators. Within 1-4 seconds, push the transmittor lock or onlock button again.

13. Within 10 sec, aim the transmitters whos codes you want to store at the receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock buttons. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stores. Make sure you program all transmitters you want working within 10 seconds of each other. Ones not included in this programming will no longer work.

14. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and pull out the key

15. Confirm proper operation with the new codes.
 

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Nice! Got a lot done! How many miles did you have on the shocks and struts, I assume originals and this is the first time replacement?


Funny note on Delirium Tremens! It was my gateway from domestic beer to good beer circa 2003. I don't drink it or Belgians that much any more, mostly stick to local craft stuff, but it had its place and time.
It is a 2008 MDX base model, 120,000 miles on shocks and struts, first time replaced.
 
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