K&N Airfilter
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Re: K&N Air Filters
Can anyone provide opinion and insight into what is like to clean them and how long a process it is?
MB-
I beleive all the press about them yielding 5-15 extra horsepower, but I am reluctant to purchase because the cleaning seems onerous.rvehock said:
Can anyone provide opinion and insight into what is like to clean them and how long a process it is?
MB-
Re: Re: K&N Air Filters
I checked out the K&N site, as I just ordered one of these for my A4. It doesn't sound too bad at all--take a look: http://knfilters.com/clningins.htm
I figure this is WELL worth the extra $$ since it should last at least 10 yrs...
Rob
MB,MesaBeige said:
I checked out the K&N site, as I just ordered one of these for my A4. It doesn't sound too bad at all--take a look: http://knfilters.com/clningins.htm
I figure this is WELL worth the extra $$ since it should last at least 10 yrs...
Rob
Re: Re: K&N Air Filters
The K&N spray cleaner is supposed to be identical to "Spray Nine" cleaner (which is much cheaper).
I don't know about the 15 HP increase - maybe if the whole airbox is replaced by a K&N unit. If this is done, keep in mind that there will be induction noise penalties. I don't think the filter alone would provide that big an increase, unless the OEM filter element is highly restrictive, which probably isn't the case (for the MDX). Beyond any power increases, there may be other benefits such as slightly improved throttle response.
You can get a K&N cleaning kit that includes a spray cleaner and the oil. Cleaning is not that difficult - just spray the element, and rinse. The hardest part is removing bugs, and debris from the folds - easier done under running water. The element must be dry before the spray on oil is applied - drying is the longest part of the process!MesaBeige said:
The K&N spray cleaner is supposed to be identical to "Spray Nine" cleaner (which is much cheaper).
I don't know about the 15 HP increase - maybe if the whole airbox is replaced by a K&N unit. If this is done, keep in mind that there will be induction noise penalties. I don't think the filter alone would provide that big an increase, unless the OEM filter element is highly restrictive, which probably isn't the case (for the MDX). Beyond any power increases, there may be other benefits such as slightly improved throttle response.
info for K&N Filter
Hi , here is the information like to share with everybody..day before my trip to CA K&N air filter arrived my house, installed then went on my 1900 miles trip from Wa Vancouver to Ca San Jose, gasmilage don't see any big improvement of couse horse power no way to know seems like engin pretty powerful don't have any trouble passing or go up hill ( 6% hill stay on 70 MPH) gasmilage that's interested story, stay on 70-75 MPH only get 21MPG, on the way home try something different stay on 65-70 most time 67 get 23MPG, I even try stay on 60MPH still get 23MPG, on the local avg. 16-17 MPG. anyway my comclusion is not worth spent
$ 61.93 for K&N filter and Filter cleaning kit. ( bought from on line Martel Brothers paid 44.99 for filter, 9.99 for cleaning kit and 6.95 for handing, was pretty good deal and fast shipping 7 days)
this 1900 miles trip everything fine only complain wind nose beside that this vehicle run beautiful.
Hi , here is the information like to share with everybody..day before my trip to CA K&N air filter arrived my house, installed then went on my 1900 miles trip from Wa Vancouver to Ca San Jose, gasmilage don't see any big improvement of couse horse power no way to know seems like engin pretty powerful don't have any trouble passing or go up hill ( 6% hill stay on 70 MPH) gasmilage that's interested story, stay on 70-75 MPH only get 21MPG, on the way home try something different stay on 65-70 most time 67 get 23MPG, I even try stay on 60MPH still get 23MPG, on the local avg. 16-17 MPG. anyway my comclusion is not worth spent
$ 61.93 for K&N filter and Filter cleaning kit. ( bought from on line Martel Brothers paid 44.99 for filter, 9.99 for cleaning kit and 6.95 for handing, was pretty good deal and fast shipping 7 days)
this 1900 miles trip everything fine only complain wind nose beside that this vehicle run beautiful.
KC question in regards w/ the K&N.
Did you unhook the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer? Your computer is still probably thinking it still has the old restrictive filter, also it takes a few miles for the computer to adjust to the new changes, but unhooking your battery would be the fastest way for your computer to read the new settings. Try it, I hope you see a difference. Good luck.
Did you unhook the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer? Your computer is still probably thinking it still has the old restrictive filter, also it takes a few miles for the computer to adjust to the new changes, but unhooking your battery would be the fastest way for your computer to read the new settings. Try it, I hope you see a difference. Good luck.
Before you do this, you may want to make sure that it's necessary. The ECU should be measuring dynamic variables and making real time adjustments accordingly. Therefore, I have my doubts whether the reset will accomplish anything.
I think it's important to have realistic expectations about what a K&N airfilter alone will improve. The MDX's engine is pretty well tuned out of the box. It's not like it come's from the factory with a choked up intake system. The K&N filter alone will improve the breathing slightly, but these slight improvements will result in HP increases that will probably be tough to notice from the driver's seat under normal driving.
I think it's important to have realistic expectations about what a K&N airfilter alone will improve. The MDX's engine is pretty well tuned out of the box. It's not like it come's from the factory with a choked up intake system. The K&N filter alone will improve the breathing slightly, but these slight improvements will result in HP increases that will probably be tough to notice from the driver's seat under normal driving.
I'm clueless on the K&N and related intake stuff, but am interested in hearing others' experiences.
That said, a quick warning to kc (and others disconnecting the battery, which resets the ECU) -- be sure and have your radio and NAV codes handy, since you may need them if your radio/NAV lockdown due to power loss (which is what they're supposed to do, to prevent theft).
That said, a quick warning to kc (and others disconnecting the battery, which resets the ECU) -- be sure and have your radio and NAV codes handy, since you may need them if your radio/NAV lockdown due to power loss (which is what they're supposed to do, to prevent theft).
Experience with K&N
I am not quite sure what K&N filter people are using but there are usually 2 types:
1) Panel filter (probably what people are ordering) - meant to mirror the size of the OEM filter except that it should be less restrictive & reusable. The horsepower and gas mileage gains on the panel filter are minimal ~1hp maybe.
2) Cone Filter - Which usually comes with a mounting bracket and replaces a lot of the factory air induction boxes / tubing. This is the setup that provides the best hp results. It is much less restrictive than the OEM set up and is re-usable as well.
My Experience:
I have used both filters. The panel filter is currently in my wife's Prelude. Went with the panel filter because it's reusable and cheaper in the long run, especially if you plan on keeping the car for a long time.
I also have the cone filter in my 96 maxima. The use of this filter changes the whole complexion of the car. It replaces the stock air box and tubing and breathes much better. The end result is about 5~7 hp (other Maxima owners have dyno'd but not me). The car is much more responsive at all RPM levels but more at the top end than low end. There is a cost to this power - noise. Since you are replacing the stock air box and opening it up with the cone filter there is much more noise than stock. How much more? Enough to make this application a personal preference. My wife is not real keen on it but can tolerate it. my friends and I on the other hand love it. It gives such a nice growl at full throttle that when ever we have to drive somewhere we hop in my car so we can jump on the gas and hear the intake noise. I have had this for about 4 years and still get a kick out of seeing the look on someone's face in the rearview when I blow by them at speed. Most people have this real confused look on their face. As an aside, I am not into the boy racer exhaust / beehive sounding stuff so it gives an idea where I am coming from. You really only notice the difference at mid to full throttle otherwise you would never know.
I hope that I haven't rambled. I just wanted to give a thorough explanation of the different applications.
I am not quite sure what K&N filter people are using but there are usually 2 types:
1) Panel filter (probably what people are ordering) - meant to mirror the size of the OEM filter except that it should be less restrictive & reusable. The horsepower and gas mileage gains on the panel filter are minimal ~1hp maybe.
2) Cone Filter - Which usually comes with a mounting bracket and replaces a lot of the factory air induction boxes / tubing. This is the setup that provides the best hp results. It is much less restrictive than the OEM set up and is re-usable as well.
My Experience:
I have used both filters. The panel filter is currently in my wife's Prelude. Went with the panel filter because it's reusable and cheaper in the long run, especially if you plan on keeping the car for a long time.
I also have the cone filter in my 96 maxima. The use of this filter changes the whole complexion of the car. It replaces the stock air box and tubing and breathes much better. The end result is about 5~7 hp (other Maxima owners have dyno'd but not me). The car is much more responsive at all RPM levels but more at the top end than low end. There is a cost to this power - noise. Since you are replacing the stock air box and opening it up with the cone filter there is much more noise than stock. How much more? Enough to make this application a personal preference. My wife is not real keen on it but can tolerate it. my friends and I on the other hand love it. It gives such a nice growl at full throttle that when ever we have to drive somewhere we hop in my car so we can jump on the gas and hear the intake noise. I have had this for about 4 years and still get a kick out of seeing the look on someone's face in the rearview when I blow by them at speed. Most people have this real confused look on their face. As an aside, I am not into the boy racer exhaust / beehive sounding stuff so it gives an idea where I am coming from. You really only notice the difference at mid to full throttle otherwise you would never know.
I hope that I haven't rambled. I just wanted to give a thorough explanation of the different applications.
K and N
I have been putting K and N filters in my cars since 1985. I too agree that horsepower gains are probably unrealistic. I remember reading that the K and N air filter is supposed to pass more air when dirty than a new cheap paper filter.
I put them in all my vehicles as soon as I buy them and never buy another filter again. I lived in Las Vegas for many years and it really pays off there as you migt imagine.Unfortuntely, I do not have any way to dyno test them.
I have been putting K and N filters in my cars since 1985. I too agree that horsepower gains are probably unrealistic. I remember reading that the K and N air filter is supposed to pass more air when dirty than a new cheap paper filter.
I put them in all my vehicles as soon as I buy them and never buy another filter again. I lived in Las Vegas for many years and it really pays off there as you migt imagine.Unfortuntely, I do not have any way to dyno test them.
Is Acura air filter expensive? The Toyota and American car air filter is about $8. I changed my air filter annually. So it only cost $80 per 10-year so I do not see any economics in the cost. Unless there is performance improvement, I do not see any rational for change. I would think the car manufacturer would see this cost aspect as they would for the platinum spark plug (100K mile).
Probably the easiest way to compare HP gains is to measure your 60 to 80MPH times in 4th gear.
What I've seen on using K&N cone type on Q45s is that the filter adds virtually nothing. Sounds different.
Why is it that Acura's are plagued by folks looking to bolt on HP with useless gadgets? Check out http://riceboypage.com/ ...
My (unpopular) 2 cents
Ard
What I've seen on using K&N cone type on Q45s is that the filter adds virtually nothing. Sounds different.
Why is it that Acura's are plagued by folks looking to bolt on HP with useless gadgets? Check out http://riceboypage.com/ ...
My (unpopular) 2 cents
Ard
K&N Filters
I think that for someone who wants to make sure he/she has a clean, almost-like-new filter in their vehicle at all times, the K&N filter is great.
While they're in the garage with their beverage of choice admiring the "Baby" perhaps they'll also check all the fluids, lubricate a hinge, clean a dirty mirror/window and check the tire pressure as well.
If you enjoy "tinkering", it gives you one more thing to do when you open the hood. Aside from that, when you can get air filters for $6 on sale at Wal-Mart and replace them at a conservative 20000 miles, it doesn't really make good financial sense to spend $70 on a K&N...
I think you'd see more of a performance/mileage increase by simply switching to synthetic oil.
I think that for someone who wants to make sure he/she has a clean, almost-like-new filter in their vehicle at all times, the K&N filter is great.
While they're in the garage with their beverage of choice admiring the "Baby" perhaps they'll also check all the fluids, lubricate a hinge, clean a dirty mirror/window and check the tire pressure as well.
If you enjoy "tinkering", it gives you one more thing to do when you open the hood. Aside from that, when you can get air filters for $6 on sale at Wal-Mart and replace them at a conservative 20000 miles, it doesn't really make good financial sense to spend $70 on a K&N...
I think you'd see more of a performance/mileage increase by simply switching to synthetic oil.
I remember talking about the K&N filters with someone that races cars and is very knowledgeable on this field. This is what he had to say. The main difference will be noticed on moist environments, where paper filters thend to become saturated with the moisture on the environment and as a result more restrictive, a non paper filter (oil based) will have the ability to resist the moisture and remain the same (non restrictive). So i would have to say people that live in places like florida, or seattle will notice some sort of "improvement" when in reality is just sustained performance. About unplugging the battery to reset the computer I will have to warn about the car stereo becoming locked, I am not sure if it happens with acuras but many car stereos lock themselves when there is no power (thinking they have been stolen) and it becomes necessary to call to the manufacturer with the bin number of the vehicle to obtain an unlocking code, just something to keep on mind. I would agree that the filter alone may not make such a big difference but i would think the whole assembly could indeed yield some improvement, however on the words of another knowledgeable person i know "you will have to sand off your fingertips to feel the difference "
K&N and AntiTheft Radios...
You've convinced me.
I'm grabbing the can of WD-40 and saturating the $6.00 Purolator!
As to the radio, yep, it'll lock right up. If you don't have the code card that came in the packet with your Owner's Manual you'll have to remove the radio and get the serial number off the back. The Dealer will dial-up the Honda/Acura Database and BAM, you'll be back in business.
I found this out when I bought my used '98 3.2TL, set off the alarm, disconnected the battery to kill the noise and found out the card with the code was missing...
You've convinced me.
I'm grabbing the can of WD-40 and saturating the $6.00 Purolator!
As to the radio, yep, it'll lock right up. If you don't have the code card that came in the packet with your Owner's Manual you'll have to remove the radio and get the serial number off the back. The Dealer will dial-up the Honda/Acura Database and BAM, you'll be back in business.
I found this out when I bought my used '98 3.2TL, set off the alarm, disconnected the battery to kill the noise and found out the card with the code was missing...
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