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Hello!

I’m new to the forum and recently purchased 2007 MDX with 145K for DD. Would anyone recommend me a list of things to change to make it a reliable DD. I can change the oil, but the rest will be done by a shop.

Also, I’m not sure if there are any manufacturer recall that I can bring it to Honda without cost.

Thank you very much!
 

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You can check for recalls at Acura owners website. I can't post links so you will have to google it. I would at least recommend all fluid changes, spark plug change and if you can't confirm that it has been done the timing belt/idlers/tensioner/waterpump
 

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If the radiator hasn't been replaced I would seriously consider adding an external trans cooler and bypassing the radiator. These are known to fail internally on the trans lines mixing coolant and trans fluid which then crashes the transmission.
 

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If the radiator hasn't been replaced I would seriously consider adding an external trans cooler and bypassing the radiator. These are known to fail internally on the trans lines mixing coolant and trans fluid which then crashes the transmission.
Thanks for the insight. I've been told that 2010 and up had a separate transmission oil cooler but I haven't verified it yet. One of the first things is all fluid changes and will check the condition of the transmission oil.
 

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I have 2007 as well.
Here is list of thing that I did to it. Some regular maintenance some components failure. The worst was radiator, but I was lucky to spot it while car was in garage. There is a separate transmission cooler on 07.

2018 Oct - 126600 brakes and rotors replacement front and back.
2018 Oct - flush break system.
2018 Oct - replaced alternator

2018 Oct - replaces inlet and outlet steering pump o-rings
2018 Nov - pcv valve replaced
2018 Nov - 2 quarts PS fluid pulled and replaced with turkey buster.
2019 January- 128k tire rotation back to front.
2019 Feb - replaced stabilizer links and bushings front and back.
2019 May - 129770 - ATF drain and fill 4 qt
2019 May - 129960 - radiator failed.
Replaced radiator
Replaced upper and lower hose
Replaced thermostat
Cleaned throttle body.
Refilled ATF fluid.
2019 July -130056
Replaced rear differential fluid DFSP dual pump
Replaced center gear box volvarine gl5 80w90
2019 Aug - replaced windshield
2019 Aug 12 - replaced drivers side mirror, greased mix motor drivers side
 

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I have 2007 as well.The worst was radiator, but I was lucky to spot it while car was in garage. There is a separate transmission cooler on 07.
Thanks for the info. I have a 2007 as well (115k). I will have to looking into the transmission cooler...did you have a leak in the garage to tell ?

Other than maintenance (I drain/refill ATF religiously every 3-4 oil change after initial 30k since you drain just half, Differential/Transfer case every 30k).
  • Aug 2018 (118) replaced the in/out steering pump o-rings, flushed the liquid (dump return line output while running and feeding new oil - very black yet service not listed)
  • feb 2018 (112k) - replaced timing belt, pulley, tensioner, water pump, serpentine, spark plugs
  • Years ago - blue Tooth drained and killed 3 batteries in a few years. baked circuit only solved for 3-9 month.Took
  • memory seat electronics sometimes funky, mirror motor need lubrication
other than that no real issues... it's been a very reliable car. I just bought daughter a Prius with 160k and learning all the things you should do to maintain a high mileage car, and installed an oil catch can, cleaned the intake manifold, replaced PCV valve and will do the EGR cooler next - tons of carbon build up. Thinking of doing similar job on the MDX which looks a lot easier (PCV is right on top, not behind the intake/engine block).
 

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This type of radiator failure will not give you a small leak. When it did fail on my car it started pouring ATF fluid though radiator expansion reservoir. It took only 2 minutes of idling to loose about a 2 qt of ATF.

You can see failed part on the picture, it’s a round hall on the bottom of the radiator, that’s where ATF cooler line is was going in.
113565


When leak develops on ATF inlet line (which is higher pressure than your antifreeze inside or radiator) it starts injecting ATF fluid into radiator body and all of that oil goes up. When there is no room to go it goes into your expansion reservoir.

If radiator fans kick in it will start sucking all that fluid into engine block which is probably worst thing that could happen.

Like is said I was lucky, my car was running for only few minutes when that happened.

Found somewhere on the web that it’s an issue with radiator design and it’s just a letter of time when it develops an issue.
 

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This type of radiator failure will not give you a small leak
I found this video showing the issue..
I went under my car today to see if I could see any rust around the input/output ATF radiator, but can't really see the base... gonna have to research this more.
Do you have un-usual rusting where you live (salted road in winter, near ocean, etc ?). I've taken my car a few times on Pismo into the ocean, maybe I shouldn't have without flesh water rinse. oops...
 

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When leak develops on ATF inlet line (which is higher pressure than your antifreeze inside or radiator) it starts injecting ATF fluid into radiator body and all of that oil goes up. When there is no room to go it goes into your expansion reservoir
Dmitry, I'm confused because looking at my 2007 MDX TECH ENT model I see the main radiator where the fans are attached (with valve+hose on top going to overflow coolant), then I see a thin one in front (less than 1") but entire size, then I see a 3rd one (maybe 1x2ft) on passager side, and finally a tube cooler along the bottom. Clearly one of them if for transmission no ? so why would they re-use part of the engine coolant for the ATF and risk a fluid mix if the connection is rusted and leaks like in Gen1 ?
I looked at my sticker and don't see any towing package option either, but looks like I have 3+ radiators. Do you too ?
 

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Here is picture I found that’s shows better how it looks on the inside of the radiator
Where did the video link go ? I didn't get to watch it... still don't understand why if they have an external ATF cooler it would also share engine cooler, other than maybe in extreme cold weather you want the engine to warm the AT as well ?
 

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The lower section of the radiator serves as both a cooler and a warmer, for the tranny fluid. The oem external tranny cooler is not touching the radiator and heat will not transfer very easily between the two. This oem external tranny cooler does not provide any warming of the tranny fluid.

I followed Skirmish's DIY, emptied the ATF out of the lower section, and connected a hose between the lower section's in and out nipples. Nothing gets into the (now unused) lower section, of the radiator. I installed an external tru-cool cooler in series with the oem external cooler.

If/When the known "fail" occurs, my antifreeze coolant will flood the empty lower chamber and the hose connecting its nipples will not let any antifreeze out. If there are still a few ounces of tranny fluid in the lower section, which mixes with my antifreeze coolant, it won't be catastrophic.
 

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I followed Skirmish's DIY, emptied the ATF out of the lower section, and connected a hose between the lower section's in and out nipples....
Thank you, that makes sense! down side is you loose warming the ATF for cold weather. Would be interesting to read what temp this is needed for as I got skiing in sometimes very cold weather a few days a year, warm temp otherwise...

Skirmish's DIY https://www.mdxers.org/threads/diy-install-atf-cooler-2g-mdx.124609/
 
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