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Discussion Starter #1
If you came across one of my posts it all started with my 2015 MDX not starting. It acted like it was starting, got to 1k RPM and then just died. All the dash warning lights were triggered which I know all those issues were not correct so I pulled the code and P2101 was triggered. After some good old internet research I just dismissed the code because I was able to Jump Start the vehicle and in my head I shouldn’t have been able to jump start the vehicle if it was a P2101

At the same time I installed an HDMI converter for the AV connection so my kids can mirror their phones to the entertainment screen since no one has DVD’s anymore (we don’t) and I started thinking this was some electrical issue because it acted the same way when the battery starts to die..

Cutting to the chase I ignored the P2101 code and carried on. All was good until a few months later when again the HDMI converter was used during that trip and while at a rest area the car didn’t start again. Same behavior.

I couldn’t pull the code but I was able to jump start it again and by the time I got home the codes cleared on their own.

The issue was becoming more frequent so I bought a portable charger and taught the family what to do in case it happens when I am not around. Well it started happening more and more often and I wasn’t around.

I spoke to an Acura tech over the phone and he told me to clean the throttle body. So I go to YouTube and watch some videos and cleaned the throttle body and then filled the car up with gas from a brand new gas station.

That same day, after the cleaning and fill up - I get P0171 and my fuel trims are way off. The next day I get P0171 & P0174 and the AWD drive was deactivated. I changed out the Mass Air Flow sensor with my accords (same exact part) no change. I looked for leaks and none were detected.

I figured it was time to throw in the towel and went to my independent mechanic. He immediately asked me if I mistakenly put in E-85. I said not a chance that I did that. He then asked where I got the gas. He drained the fuel and replaced it and same problem. That didn’t fix it.

he checked for leaks and nothing, he checked fuel pressure and it was bouncing rapidly between 45 and 75 and said he’s never seen this before and said i may need a new fuel pump or regulator and the MDX has two fuel pumps so he wasn’t able to say for sure if it would fix it. Turns out (from Acura tech - the bouncing around is normal for direct injection)

After a few more days at his shop where he had tech lines helping him and all kinds of computers connected to it he threw up his hands and said he did all can and the next step is to start taking apart the engine or replace parts one at a time.

I took the car back, I called Acura and they told me to come in after the holidays when their top guy is back from vacation - that’s what I did. This guy is the only tech in the area certified by Acura to work on the NSX.

After a few hours of diagnostics he determined there were no leaks and the throttle body needed to be recalibrated. He took it off and thoroughly cleaned it and recalibrated it. He said I did a good job in the front but the back was still dirty. He also told me the right way to clean it is disconnect it and to take it off And that YouTube can be dangerous for DIYer’s but it would still need to be recalibrated which requires the Honda Software / Computer.

The tech told me straight up “you’re doing a great job with your car - it has high miles but still runs great with no vibrations. Keep doing that but leave the codes to us. Don’t try and make assumptions as to what could have caused what and just bring it in. You can bring it to an Indy but that can only get them so far and by the time you pay them you’re already in a loss because like now you’ll have to bring it to us”. The tech was really cool about it.

The service advisor gave me a break on the labor and time.

About the fob we actually made a bet.

He said the remote starter not working was user error and said if it works for him I’d have to go into the service area and state my name and how I am a dumbass and the service advisor is always right. If it didn’t
he’d replace the fob.

It didn’t work so he’s replacing the fob.

The lesson I learned is for me to stick to fluid changes, brakes and remove & replace wrenching. Leave the diagnostics to the Acura Techs - I do not know better than my MDX’s computer.

I can live with that and it’s still respectable.
 

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You remind me of myself. A for your efforts and I’m glad you made an impression on that tech. You will now always have a plan B to rely on.
 

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While I may be eager to dive into repairing all kinds of things, I find that time always seems to be the biggest constraint for me. Resources like forums and youtube can only help DIYers so much. As consumer products become more complex and specialized, it's sometimes best to stick with the simple stuff and leave certain tasks to trained and experienced professionals.

Nice to hear that it got fixed. So I take it that the repair took only one day? That's better than what I would have expected. If I were in your shoes, I'd give the dealer a high rating on the follow-up survey, as well as post a positive review on them online.
 

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I hate how everything these days needs HDS to calibrate something. So many damn sensors. Such a sensitive vehicle.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

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That's great news! I guess this means no Pacifica for the time being, but I'm glad to know that these MDXs will still be running smoothly with high miles (y)

Thank you for sharing your troubles, trials, and solutions
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's great news! I guess this means no Pacifica for the time being, but I'm glad to know that these MDXs will still be running smoothly with high miles (y)

Thank you for sharing your troubles, trials, and solutions
I still picked up the Pacifica. We needed a bigger car with the kids And dogs. But it’s great to know I have a proper AWD vehicle for snow days. ?? That the random no start doesn’t reoccur.


114119
 

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Personally, I'm still trying to reconcile the throttle body situation. On one hand, I've had a dealer strongly push TB cleaning, even at low mileage, almost surely to juice service revenue. On the other, TBs on direct fuel injected engines do seem prone to getting dirty and will (eventually) benefit from cleaning (and recalibrating ;) ) Even so, I've yet to see TB cleaning show up as recommended procedure or on maintenance schedules in vehicle manuals.

Kinda rough on the average, unsuspecting consumer. Sigh.
 

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Acura might claim it the car always went to the dealer then it would be fine .
If not cleaning throttle body cleaning can issue then why wouldn’t Acura built in to the MID.
Unless they are hoping that you will new car after 100 k miles .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Personally, I'm still trying to reconcile the throttle body situation. On one hand, I've had a dealer strongly push TB cleaning, even at low mileage, almost surely to juice service revenue. On the other, TBs on direct fuel injected engines do seem prone to getting dirty and will (eventually) benefit from cleaning (and recalibrating ;) ) Even so, I've yet to see TB cleaning show up as recommended procedure or on maintenance schedules in vehicle manuals.

Kinda rough on the average, unsuspecting consumer. Sigh.
Based on this experience the TB is super sensitive and likes to be clean. I am not personally touching the TB again. It almost makes more sense to buy a new TB and replace rather than clean. It’s $171 for the new parts but $145 / hr for labor.

The problem there is if a new TB has to be recalibrated you’re now at $171 + labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I guess you’ll get a code when it’s too late
I got P2101 - Electronic Throttle Control System Malfunction.

I’ve never cleaned the TB before but I have learned that these need to be cleaned because of the carbon build up. I attempted to clean it and then it threw p0171 & P0174 - too lean.

The lean condition was fixed. Only time will tell if the p2101 condition was fixed when the TB was throughly cleaned by Acura.

Acura does push cleaning of the TB when you bring it for service and now we know why.
 

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I’ll be curious to see if mine ever needs this. Call it superstition, but I only use Chevron premium 93 octane in my vehicles, as I know it’s supposed to be the first thing recommended as a potential fix for fuel-related problems in many high-end cars. I’ve been through three 150k+ mile cars now and never a fuel related issue on any of them. Either sold them due to being uncomfortable/impractical (5-speed Chevy s-10), just plain old and ugly (‘88 Nissan Hardbody pickup), or wanting to give a great car as a gift to my in-laws (‘05 Mazda Tribute). Hope the trend continues with this ‘19 MDX, but the more I read on this forum, the more weary I become.
 

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Doesn’t using top tier gas should fix the issue of need TB cleaning .
In theory, better gas will result in fewer carbon deposits everywhere (valves, ports, TB, etc.). There’s a guy who does tests of these things on YouTube using lawnmower engines, so I’ll have to see if he’s done this one in particular.
 

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I was scratching my head trying to figure out how carbon would deposit in the TB on a DI engine. Google filled me in:


According to that article, top tier gas over the life of the vehicle should result in less deposit formation. In the case of the TB, better gas won’t remove deposits that have already formed.
 

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I just had the worst day with my MDX (which is impressive given how many bad days it has given me). It’s a 2014 with 110k miles. Tried to start it, gave me Christmas lights worth of errors. Got the car finally started, got it into gear and as I’m driving it died and we hit a car.

Took it to Autozone today and got the P2101 error (though I wasn’t getting a CEL anymore). Based on what you’re saying, looks like I will take it in to Acura to get it repaired. How much did they charge you localbar?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just had the worst day with my MDX (which is impressive given how many bad days it has given me). It’s a 2014 with 110k miles. Tried to start it, gave me Christmas lights worth of errors. Got the car finally started, got it into gear and as I’m driving it died and we hit a car.

Took it to Autozone today and got the P2101 error (though I wasn’t getting a CEL anymore). Based on what you’re saying, looks like I will take it in to Acura to get it repaired. How much did they charge you localbar?
Sorry to hear about your crappy day(s) it seems the Throttle Body for the 3rd Gen’s gets all gunked up at around 100k+ miles.

And apparently it’s very sensitive.

They charged me 2 hours of labor and some parts which came out to about $320 after taxes.

For P2101 - bring it to Acura. They may tell you that you need a new Throttle Body and that may be right. I cleaned mine which cause a slew of other issues and if I could do it again I’d probably would just have bought a new TB and have them install and reprogram. You probably get to the same cost, maybe $50 more as the TB is relatively inexpensive and easy to remove and replace. You can attempt to do that one on your own but if it needs reprogramming you’ll have to bring it in.

I would bring it in and see what they advise.
 

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To circle back to this, in case anyone has a similar issue....Acura suggested I replace the throttle body ($580) and perform a fuel induction cleaning ($180) since there was so much build up in the throttle body. So, we did just that.

Picked up the car after they were finished and the car gave me the same issues yet again within a few miles of driving it. Took it back and they are telling me it's a new problem and they are getting the too lean code (I believe it is the same set of codes you got localbar after cleaning your throttle body). They didn't tell me which codes, but it looks like it is the P0174 and P0171 by there description (too lean on Bank 1). They are not sure what is causing it so they sent the info in to Acura to get some help. They're also trying to suggest that it is an unrelated issue (my guess is to get me to pay for additional services) though I have pleaded with them that it is the same behavior as last time. I have suggested to them to recalibrate the throttle body (based on what you experienced localbar, since our problems seem too similar).

Localbar, would you mind giving me the name of the dealer and tech you used? I would like to see if that tech can communicate with the tech working on my car to explain to him how to fix the issue. My dealer is a bit lost here - they've never seen anything like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I would imagine they would also have to reprogram the module when they install a new TB. When they explained this to me they said it was a bit of a process and took several hours.

You also had the injectors cleaned which adds to the puzzle and can affect a lean code I didn’t touch the injectors other than using techron injection cleaner in the gas tank.

I sent you a private message with the contact info.
 
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