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Once again i am coming to yet another issue allthough i feel like ive made every repair possible to bring this beauty back to life, so far every mechanic ive asked says teh same "hmm.. havent heard of that before" followed by the exact words i started my question off with "its an electrical/sensor issue"

So my 05 MDX touring will start up and drive perfect in the morning, ill go to my daughters school and work, sometimes its minutes later during the same drive, sometimes hours later (maybe later in the day on another start up like on my lunch break)
If i come to one of many red lights, i press my brake as usual, and when the light turns green i go to take off and the car is completely stuck, will not move. RPMS rev (obviously due to none movement of my tires but clearly the engine is still engaged)

in order to get myself out of this "lock" i MUST let the car sit for a couple hours, i CANNOT restart the car then and there, i have already tried & the car will still not move. It will actually start rolling backwards if im on the SLIGHTEST incline while in drive and in this "brake lock" ( so clearly its not the tires locking up)

Upon a few hours later, ill start up and go and everything is fine even when braking untill... maybe 10 min later or even an hour later it will do it again.


Heres what ive come up with, since this started right after i picked up my car from getting a full synthetic change w tire roation, i know the TMPS sensor is related to not being able to disable or turn off the VSA feature, also that the VSA and ABS work together (in other words to turn one off you have to turn both off) Im thinking this is really a simple fix that is causing a really big frusterating issue..

My guess is the ABS sensors were not connected back properly when getting my tires rotated lasst week?
or Possibly the TMPS light on (even though the sensors and tires are BRAND NEW and that light has been on since all was replaced) causing a malfunction with the VSA or ABS to work ??


IDK but i need help because im just a 24 year old girl who has already replaced 3 radiators (no im not an idiot, its a long story behind its constant failure but i really can explain) all 5 motor mounts, both engine fans, entire fuel line, entire cooling system, all fluids flushed & topped w synthetic, all new firetstone tires w sensors, wiring connection to AC compressor repaired, and not that this matters but im gonna throw this out there because i myself, non mechanic, repaired the rear entertainment system :) :wink: *cough cough* anyways..

what the actual heck, im so done and i want to give up on her at this point, but i know this particuar issue has a very good possibility of being VERY SIMPLE... therefore im not giving up yet,

HELP
 

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Discussion Starter #2
****UPDATE **** I am going to try the factory ECU transmission reset
turning key to (2) turning off all electronics & back off
turning key to (2) again pressing gas peddle all the way for 35 seconds
turn off, remove key
restart engine

I will keep you updated if this computer reset solves my issue
 

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Sounds like transmission slipping. It's trying to engage and upshift when you want to move, but the transmission/clutch won't engage, so the engine revs just as if you were in neutral (which is the classic symptom of transmission slipping). Nothing to do with your brakes, since it rolls back on an incline. Next time, if no cars behind you, you can try putting it into reverse and (if that works in reverse), put it back into drive to try to force it to work.

I guess you now have some idea it's your transmission, thus the attempt at resetting it. Hope that works for you. Was the transmission fluid changed with the other fluids? Check the transmission fluid levels in case of a leak. While driving, does it shift smoothly between gears or hesitates for a second?
 

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well i just had a full synthetic oil change last week, about 5 days later found tranni fluid low & topped off.(*this may be where my problem is lying, though i was told during oil change all fluids were clean and leveled?) Shifting feels fine, well, feels alot better than it ever has considering ive been through hell & back w this thing & it use to shift like complete garbage, but aside from that, i can not get reverse to function when im "stuck" Also, i just find it hard to believe its just the actual tranni slipping that would cause intermittent driving like this. This morning drove to work & it felt like I was driving a Cadi. Didnt get stuck or have issues slipping gears, took off & maintained a smooth ride.
Its just so weird, Im thinking maybe one of the tranni sensors. Or shifter solenoid?
ugh, idk.. but the ECU reset made a difference i believe, no lock up YET but the drive is much smoother.
This morning i felt a jolt followed by a slight rev when accelerating (that sounds like an O2 sensor)

In other words, I think the ECU reset helped, not sure if it took care of the lock up situation yet, & im about to rip my hair out over this because ive spent the past 5 months spinning in circles over repairs & was finally DONE w every last one a few weeks ago.. so here we are again. :(

227,500 miles & when i purchased 5 months ago she wouldnt even get up to 45 mph, jolted in every gear, multiple features didnt work.
Since my repairs ive never had an issue getting her right up to 80 or more if needed, shifting is .. ehh.. a little bump here and there but nothing crazy, & ALL THE FEATURES WORK :)) ( i repaired the AC, nav, DVD ect..)
So this is really sad to watch, because if its simply a tranni needed, shell be gone soon. No more moneysss
 

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It's almost certainly a transmission issue. The fact it shifts fine most of the time is encouraging, since that means that all the important bits are still intact (the clutches for each gear, mainly).

Normally when a transmission refuses to go into gear it's a "control problem" and - especially on a high-mileage car - that usually means debris in the transmission fluid.

The first question I'd have is how did you determine the fluid was low, and how much did you add? OK - that's two questions. To properly check the fluid level, you have to drive the car until the fluid is fully up to temperature (normally by putting in some highway miles), then park on a level spot (not always easy to find), and turn the engine off and only then, check the fluid level after about 30 seconds, but before 90 seconds. If you checked the level any other way, there's a chance that it's now over-filled, which can cause all sorts of issues. If you think there's a chance that the tranny's over-filled, I'd recommend checking it while hot (as described above), and adjust as necessary (normally just by partially removing the drain plug and letting a quart (or your best guess on the over-fill) drain out, holding the drain plug kinda/sorta in place to control the flow.

The other thing I'd look at are the "usual suspects" with one of these trannies - the shift solenoids and the pressure switches.

And - though I'd state for the record that I tend to be highly suspect of additives - I've had great luck with LubeGard Platinum on similar transmissions, which once fixed a buddy's Honda (very similar) tranny that shift solenoids and pressure switches didn't. FWIW...
 
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