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Hey all,

I'm new to this site and thought I would create my first post on something I had a hard time researching...installing an Audio Control line out converter (LCQ-1). Obviously there are many good tutorials on the web, but none that were specific to a 2011 MDX w/tech. Pretty much everything I found dealt with the older model MDX Bose system and not the newer ELS (I think Panasonic) system. I believe the systems are still the same, but if not, this should at least cover a few model years newer than a 2011. I completed this install successfully within a weekends time. All the information is ACCURATE, which was another hurdle I went through. Hopefully this will help someone in the future!

What is being installed:

-Audio Control LCQ-1
-Alpine components (SPR-60C), FRONT
-Infinity Kappa 62.9i, REAR
-Rockford Fosgate PRIME 300x4 channel amplifier

For starters, finding a wiring diagram that was accurate was a challenge. Luckily the people at my Acura dealership are great and supplied it right away.

Wiring Diagram 2011 MDX w/Tech

IMG_0023.JPG

Since the 2011 MDX has a factory amplifier, we want to splice into it from the output wires. To find the amp, open the glove box, push in the sides, and slide down. The amp is located on the right (silver looking box).

IMG_0020.JPG

Next, you will need to locate the output harness. The output harness should have a blue piece of tape (or at least mine did), if not, its the harness that is further away from the radio. A better way to locate the output side is to count the wires. The output side has 18 and the input side has 28.

IMG_0021.JPG

Next you'll want to CAREFULLY remove the black tubing and tape around the harness. This is easiest if you unplug it first.

IMG_0022.JPG

After you've removed the tubing and tape, you are ready for the wiring diagram. One thing I ran into that was a bit confusing were the front speakers. The front left and right door speakers are connected to the front left and right tweeters in the dash. Normally you would put the front door speakers into the main input of the LCQ-1 and the tweeters into the second channel of the LCQ-1 and sum the two channels together, but in this case, it looks as if Acura set the front speakers up similar to a component set. The GREEN and WHITE wire will be for both the front left door and front left tweeter. The BROWN and RED wire will be for the front right door speaker and tweeter. MAKE SURE YOU LOCATE THE CORRECT RED WIRE SINCE THE BACK RIGHT PILLAR SPEAKER ALSO USES A RED WIRE.

I DO NOT recommend cutting the harness. I used wire splicers from Home Depot (18-14 AWG) that ran about $3.50 for a pack of 5. You should pick up 3 packs for this job or more if you are changing out more speakers in your MDX.

Wire Splicers.jpg

Now, this next decision is totally yours, but I would recommend putting the Audio Control line out converter (whichever you choose: LC6i, LC2i, LCQ-1, etc.) in the trunk. For this you will need about 15 feet of wire for each +,- you are splicing into. You can either keep the wire you are running to the back together (as one +,-), or pull it apart to have separate wires. I pulled the wire apart so I'd have more flexibility when running it down the side of the car.

NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU LABEL EACH WIRE YOU ARE RUNNING TO THE BACK FOR IDENTIFICATION! DO THIS ON BOTH ENDS OF THE WIRE SO YOU DONT HAVE TO KEEP GOING UP FRONT TO IDENTIFY WHICH WIRE IS WHICH.

This picture shows the splicers, pulled apart speaker wire for each +,- and also the labeling. Again, I strongly recommend labeling the wires you are running to the back on BOTH ends.

IMG_0024.JPG

After all of this has been done, run the wires under the passenger side (see picture) and to the back. As you can see, I have a power line running as well so don't worry, it will all fit (use 16 AWG wire).

IMG_0025.JPG

After this is done, hook up your line out converter, amps, and install the speakers. If anyone would like pictures for the amp and speaker install, let me know. That part is pretty straight forward, but the line out converter is a bit vague so that's why I only focused on that. Most places will want $125-$200 for the install. That's a rip off especially since the install is almost as much as the converter! Seriously, if you follow this, it's a pretty simple install...I'm not a professional and was able to successfully install the LOC.

NOTE: YOU'LL NOTICE SOME HISSING/FEEDBACK FROM THE SPEAKERS AFTER YOU INSTALL THE LOC...DON'T FREAK OUT, ITS ALL ABOUT LEVEL MATCHING FROM THERE!

I recommend the LCQ-1 because it does everything the LC6i, LC2i, LC81 do, but it separates itself with the equalizer function. I CANT STRESS HOW IMPORTANT THE EQUALIZER IS FOR TIGHT SOUND!

Good luck and feel free to ask any questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
UGH...the pics seem to be upside down. If they're hard to make out let me know and I'll try to re-post them.
 

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Nice add, thanks for documenting your install for us!
Please post pics of the rest of the install.

-Mojo
 

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Thanks man! Here are a few pics I took this morning of the completed project. My only concern is the wiring of the amps (meaning it could look better). If anyone has a suggestion that would help clean up the wiring, please let me know.

IMG_0063.JPG

IMG_0066.JPG
 

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Okay thanks....my installer got mine from the rear cigarette lighter connection.
But I want my Amp to shut off when not in use, for example; radio is off, amp is off.

Thought you got one from the stock Amp input.

Getting too paranoid with all the electronics in our car these days...with the radio off, amp is left on uselessly, killing the battery faster. Especially if you want to leave in ACC mode.

My year X is in my Sig...'08.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay thanks....my installer got mine from the rear cigarette lighter connection.
But I want my Amp to shut off when not in use, for example; radio is off, amp is off.

Thought you got one from the stock Amp input.

Getting too paranoid with all the electronics in our car these days...with the radio off, amp is left on uselessly, killing the battery faster. Especially if you want to leave in ACC mode.

My year X is in my Sig...'08.
Wait, are you talking about the 2 amps I have in the trunk, or the remote for the LCQ-1?
 

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Gotcha. Yes, my reply was accurate. I used the remote line from the factory amp for the line out converter and the A/C fuse (#30) for the two rear amps.
 

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Gotcha. Yes, my reply was accurate. I used the remote line from the factory amp for the line out converter and the A/C fuse (#30) for the two rear amps.
Ok cool thanks.

Now how does your remote line from the factory amp work?
Does it shut off the LCQ1 when radio shuts off?

Also wondering why you didn't just use the remote from 2 amps to LCQ1?

I didn't research yet, but my '08 should have a stock amp behind the glove box too.
Elite model=(US ADV).

I know there is a stock subwoofer amp inside of the stock subwoofer box in the rear....thats where my installer connected a LOC(line out converter) to.
No remote line from the sub amp in rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The remote line from the factory amp only shuts off the LCQ1 when the car shuts off. Since I have aftermarket speakers being powered by an aftermarket amp, I don't want the amp to shut off because that would in turn shut off the speakers.

I don't need a remote line for the LCQ1 because it automatically turns on once it receives an input signal to the main channel. I could run a remote line into it and bypass the automatic turn on feature (more control over the ON/OFF function), but that in my opinion would make more work (why run a wire when I dont have to...I don't plan on turning it off nor do I care if its on when I'm not listening to music).

Hopefully this answers your question...
 

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Also, what are your plans with the sound system? Maybe if you explain what you want to achieve I can give some additional feedback. I feel like I know this car inside and out after my install! LOL!
 

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Also, what are your plans with the sound system? Maybe if you explain what you want to achieve I can give some additional feedback. I feel like I know this car inside and out after my install! LOL!
Only thing I wanna really gain... is a remote line from the radio to shut the aftermarket amp off, when radio is off.
I had the install done last summer. Installer did not remove radio, hence no radio remote.

I was gonna maybe find a newer Amp that have an auto trigger built in.

I wanted to test the satellite radio in the rear for a remote line.
Reason, when switched to satellite from FM or CD...it tends to load data. So I am thinking it turns on when radio turns on, or when switched to Satellite.
Most likely when radio turns on though...which I need.

Waiting on warmer weather to pursue, or if I get bored enough.
 

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there should be an accessory connector in the fuse box that is only powered on when the switch is set to "accessory" or "ON" ... I don't have a diagram of the MDX fuse box but all the other hondas I've owned had this. You could use that as your amp trigger

if there isn't one you can buy a "piggyback fuse tap" & plug it into the factory radio / amp fuse socket, that's probably the easiest way to get an amp trigger:

 

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Bumping this thread up. Which one is the remote wire off the factory amp. The purple one on the 18 pin connector is a straight 12v

Wiring off the fuse box will be a bit off a pain as I am putting the sub under the passenger seat.

Thank you
 

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Hey all,

I'm new to this site and thought I would create my first post on something I had a hard time researching...installing an Audio Control line out converter (LCQ-1). Obviously there are many good tutorials on the web, but none that were specific to a 2011 MDX w/tech. Pretty much everything I found dealt with the older model MDX Bose system and not the newer ELS (I think Panasonic) system. I believe the systems are still the same, but if not, this should at least cover a few model years newer than a 2011. I completed this install successfully within a weekends time. All the information is ACCURATE, which was another hurdle I went through. Hopefully this will help someone in the future!

What is being installed:

-Audio Control LCQ-1
-Alpine components (SPR-60C), FRONT
-Infinity Kappa 62.9i, REAR
-Rockford Fosgate PRIME 300x4 channel amplifier

For starters, finding a wiring diagram that was accurate was a challenge. Luckily the people at my Acura dealership are great and supplied it right away.

Wiring Diagram 2011 MDX w/Tech

View attachment 67898

Since the 2011 MDX has a factory amplifier, we want to splice into it from the output wires. To find the amp, open the glove box, push in the sides, and slide down. The amp is located on the right (silver looking box).

View attachment 67906

Next, you will need to locate the output harness. The output harness should have a blue piece of tape (or at least mine did), if not, its the harness that is further away from the radio. A better way to locate the output side is to count the wires. The output side has 18 and the input side has 28.

View attachment 67914

Next you'll want to CAREFULLY remove the black tubing and tape around the harness. This is easiest if you unplug it first.

View attachment 67922

After you've removed the tubing and tape, you are ready for the wiring diagram. One thing I ran into that was a bit confusing were the front speakers. The front left and right door speakers are connected to the front left and right tweeters in the dash. Normally you would put the front door speakers into the main input of the LCQ-1 and the tweeters into the second channel of the LCQ-1 and sum the two channels together, but in this case, it looks as if Acura set the front speakers up similar to a component set. The GREEN and WHITE wire will be for both the front left door and front left tweeter. The BROWN and RED wire will be for the front right door speaker and tweeter. MAKE SURE YOU LOCATE THE CORRECT RED WIRE SINCE THE BACK RIGHT PILLAR SPEAKER ALSO USES A RED WIRE.

I DO NOT recommend cutting the harness. I used wire splicers from Home Depot (18-14 AWG) that ran about $3.50 for a pack of 5. You should pick up 3 packs for this job or more if you are changing out more speakers in your MDX.

View attachment 67938

Now, this next decision is totally yours, but I would recommend putting the Audio Control line out converter (whichever you choose: LC6i, LC2i, LCQ-1, etc.) in the trunk. For this you will need about 15 feet of wire for each +,- you are splicing into. You can either keep the wire you are running to the back together (as one +,-), or pull it apart to have separate wires. I pulled the wire apart so I'd have more flexibility when running it down the side of the car.

NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU LABEL EACH WIRE YOU ARE RUNNING TO THE BACK FOR IDENTIFICATION! DO THIS ON BOTH ENDS OF THE WIRE SO YOU DONT HAVE TO KEEP GOING UP FRONT TO IDENTIFY WHICH WIRE IS WHICH.

This picture shows the splicers, pulled apart speaker wire for each +,- and also the labeling. Again, I strongly recommend labeling the wires you are running to the back on BOTH ends.

View attachment 67930

After all of this has been done, run the wires under the passenger side (see picture) and to the back. As you can see, I have a power line running as well so don't worry, it will all fit (use 16 AWG wire).

View attachment 67946

After this is done, hook up your line out converter, amps, and install the speakers. If anyone would like pictures for the amp and speaker install, let me know. That part is pretty straight forward, but the line out converter is a bit vague so that's why I only focused on that. Most places will want $125-$200 for the install. That's a rip off especially since the install is almost as much as the converter! Seriously, if you follow this, it's a pretty simple install...I'm not a professional and was able to successfully install the LOC.

NOTE: YOU'LL NOTICE SOME HISSING/FEEDBACK FROM THE SPEAKERS AFTER YOU INSTALL THE LOC...DON'T FREAK OUT, ITS ALL ABOUT LEVEL MATCHING FROM THERE!

I recommend the LCQ-1 because it does everything the LC6i, LC2i, LC81 do, but it separates itself with the equalizer function. I CANT STRESS HOW IMPORTANT THE EQUALIZER IS FOR TIGHT SOUND!

Good luck and feel free to ask any questions!
How do I get my hands on that book? Trying to install new radio on 2008 MDX with Nav and DVD player.
 
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