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Is your grease rated for the temperatures brakes have to put up with?

Do you have the brake pad hardware? Like anti-rattle clips?

You may consider bleeding your brakes, while you’re down there. (Would need DOT 3/4 fluid)
 

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You know when you get in there.

I like to put in new brake hardware - if you bought a good set of pads they generally come included.

You could need:

a new caliper(s) replace in pairs if needed.

Slide pin (if not shiny)

Caliper bracket (if rusted inside - in this case you’d probably need a slide pin and bracket)

Slide pin boots (if cracked or torn)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I bought the brake pads from acura dealers online and it came with everything including the black paste for anti-squeaking. I got the little package from autozone that said for greasing brakes calipers.

I need a c-clamp to push in the piston so the whole caliper with the new pads will slide over the rotor.


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Discussion Starter #5
Do you know what is this for? It for the caliper pin grease.? It came with the brake pads



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NO - It is for the pads only.

Wipe some on the back of the bare pad, then add the shim and wipe on that also. If there is a second shim, that also. Wipe a bit on the "Ears" of the pads to let them move more easily in the caliper frames.

Wear gloves because its's pretty sticky stuff. Make sure not to get any on the friction portion of the pad or on the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
NO - It is for the pads only.

Wipe some on the back of the bare pad, then add the shim and wipe on that also. If there is a second shim, that also. Wipe a bit on the "Ears" of the pads to let them move more easily in the caliper frames.

Wear gloves because its's pretty sticky stuff. Make sure not to get any on the friction portion of the pad or on the rotor.


Ok. Thanks!!!


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Are you doing rear pads also?

You need a proper caliper tool not just a c-clamp.

The tool rotates as it compresses the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Are you doing rear pads also?



You need a proper caliper tool not just a c-clamp.



The tool rotates as it compresses the caliper.


I will use the old pad along with a c-clamp to compress the piston in. I had done this many times and problem.


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You do know that the rear piston is suppose to rotate when compressing it?

Just saying that you could create issues with the piston if it isn't rotated.
 

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Are you doing rear pads also?

You need a proper caliper tool not just a c-clamp.

The tool rotates as it compresses the caliper.
I heard about it too. But I changed my rear pads w/o using one of those tools. I am still puzzled. Have I done something wrong or it is suppose to be this way?
 

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@qqzj
Without the correct tool there is a chance that the piston can be damaged if pushed in straight (as in using a c-clamp)

I err on the side of caution and a number of years ago spent the money on the correct tools.

They are not that expensive under $40 CAD for a 20+ piece set off of Amazon.
 

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Do you have a picture or video telling us why the piston will be damaged if pushed in straight? I am quite curious. Searching now. Thanks.
 

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Are you doing rear pads also?

You need a proper caliper tool not just a c-clamp.

The tool rotates as it compresses the caliper.
I'm sorry in advance if I'm wrong here but doesn't the '11 MDX have an internal drum parking brake system that is separate from the actual caliper? If yes then;

I've always thought the if the parking brake mechanism is a separate system from the caliper braking system, then you do not have to rotate the caliper to retract the piston. Just compress it straight back in.

On the other hand if the parking brake system IS incorporated into the caliper, then that piston design is required to be twisted to retract the caliper piston.

Look at this video, skip to the 10min mark; these type requires turning of the piston:


Here is another:

 

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I'm sorry in advance if I'm wrong here but doesn't the '11 MDX have an internal drum parking brake system that is separate from the actual caliper? If yes then;

I've always thought the if the parking brake mechanism is a separate system from the caliper braking system, then you do not have to rotate the caliper to retract the piston. Just compress it straight back in.

On the other hand if the parking brake system IS incorporated into the caliper, then that piston design is required to be twisted to retract the caliper piston.
You could be right.

I have only worked on vehicles that needed the rear caliper to be turned while compressing.

Have yet to need brakes done on my MDX.
 

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I guess the key give away is whether there are those slots on the face of the piston. Somebody take a picture next time? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The parking brake is a separate system from the caliper brake system. The piston on the rear caliper is the same as the front ( straight push in)
 
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