Almost 6 hours and no break I got it done and no issue. The engine is definitely have less vibration and doesn’t seem to be jerking around anymore and of course no more clunking during acceleration.
NOTES:
Getting the engine bolts lose is easy if you have long extension and swivel socket extension. I got all the bolts lose from the top. Trying to raise the engine by jacking directly under the oil pan to release the weight on the engine mount, didn’t work. I had to jack up under the transmission to get the weight off the mount.
Removing the upper and lower radiator hoses would make thing a lot easier but I chose not to because I don’t want to deal with the coolant dripping everywhere and add more work and waste good coolant. However, if your coolant is too old it’s would probably a good idea to do it.
Also getting the bolts back into the holes on the engine mount and the subframe are tough because it was hard to get the two holes aligned in very tight space . The trick is to screw the bolts from the bottom instead to get those four holes align with the subframe and then remove one at a time and screw the bolts from the top. Use a piece of paper to hold the nut and bolt in the socket and lower it down to thread.
Going with the battery tray and starter motor and front engine mount removal procedures.
A lot of nuts and bolts removal in tight space. Not an easy job.
Will try the side engine mount in a few days and hopefully it will be a lot easier.
Here is the old front engine mount. Completely broken in two pieces after 143k miles.
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