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Hello everyone! First time poster on this forum, but I've hung around here and there. I write up a lot of posts on other forums (mainly BMW) but i recently had this project so here I am.

The video is of a Ridgeline but an Acura MDX is very similar, and I've done axles on both vehicles (both 2007's). I thought it may help out some people over here as well.

My wife purchased a GoPro as a birthday present so I can record automotive projects that I do, and since her mom needed axles in her Ridgeline I figured it would be a nice little first project. I am a mobile mechanic that covers Florida, I maintain my families cars for them - a Ridgeline specific valve adjustment video or guide (or both) will be in the near future. I had the extra time I needed to shoot the video and I didnt see a whole lot out there for guides so I decided it was worth the effort.

I'm kind of shy and timid and its my first time in front of a camera but I thought it turned out ok with everything considered.

Tools you will need to complete the job;
10mm
12mm
19mm
22mm
21mm or 22mm forget what the wheels were
24mm
36mm
zip ties or coat hanger for caliper
punch or chisel set
pry bars
jack
jack stands
seal puller if you replace the axle seal
long heavy duty flat head screw driver
pry bars
flat bar
catch pan

Parts needed:
Passenger axle
Drivers side axle
Drivers side axle seal

Video link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THGrHVq1HPw

Everything is explained in the video, but below is an outline of the work.

If you dont have an impact the first thing we need to do is get the truck in position and then crack all 5 lug nuts. Then jack the truck up by the front jack point and use jack stands to support the truck. Use a punch and un-dent the front axle nuts for each side. Next you have a few options:

We can knock the center cap out of the wheel and put both wheels back on with two lug nuts. Then lower the truck and use your 36mm socket to break the axle nuts free and put the truck back up on jack stands and remove the wheels again.

Or we can use a chisel in the rotor against the caliper while the vehicle is in the air. This is the method used in the video.

With the axle nut free, we can use a 19mm to remove the upper and lower caliper bolt from the knuckle. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line to the strut. Then hang the caliper from the strut with zip ties. Remove the two clips holding the ABS wire to the strut tube.

Then you can remove the rotor, if you want. I did in the video because she did not have the rotor retaining screws in place.

After that paint mark the strut to knuckle as shown in the picture below. Honda/Acura states to draw circles around each bolt and to re-assemble lining up the bolts in their circles. Supposedly alignments aren't needed after this, but I marked it in a few more places just to make sure. Upon completion my client said it drove fine and had no issues with the alignment.



Then remove the two 24mm strut to knuckle bolts and begin to separate the knuckle from the strut and also tap the axle free from the hub. With the outboard side free, knuckle separated from the hub then its time to separate the inboard side of the axle.

The passenger side separates from the intermediate shaft, while the drivers side splines directly into the transmission. When removing the drivers side have a catch pan ready, as a little transmission fluid will leak out.

I use a flat bar to separate the drivers side inboard joint from the transmission. I use a long screwdriver or prybar with a sledge to separate the passenger side inboard joint.

Next up use a seal puller to remove the drivers side axle seal. The passenger side just a dust seal and I didnt replace it, nor did i remove the intermediate shaft to replace the passenger side axle seal at the transmission case.

Then pretty much reverse of removal, install the axle seal, the inboard axle and then outboard axle into the hub, align the knuckle with the strut, then align the knuckle bolt holes with the strut bolt holes (use a punch or screwdriver for leverage) install the rotor, caliper, brake line, abs clips, and then tighten down the axle nut and punch it. Install the wheel and your all set!

Also heres to 200 Ftlbs. Youll need a 3/4" torque wrench and you will most likely need a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, unless your 36mm is 3/4". I had to look in a few different sets of adapters to find the one I needed.


Let me know what you think about the video and guide. If youd like to see anything specific, feel free to chime in and ill see what i can do in the future!
 

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Nice job on the video!

I'm a new '08 MDX owner myself, actually it's my wife's. I drive a Bimmer and have come from a Benz suv. I do all the work myself, at least as much as I can without needing a lift.

It's nice to see someone posting some DIY vids/instructions. I've found that the MDX community can be somewhat lacking in that department, at least compared to the BMW and MB forums.

I do have a question for you, what symptoms would one experience that would lead to replacing the axle? Reason I ask is that I'm having an issue on our MDX that I think may be axle related. When accelerating from a stop in a turn, I get a low vibration/grinding noise until about 20-30 mph. Doesn't happen when going straight, only when turning. Definitely not a click, so I don't think it's a CV joint issue, but I could be wrong. I've searched around, but couldn't find anything definitive as to what the problem could be. Any ideas would be great. Thanks.

BTW, what part of Florida? I'm in Sarasota myself.
 
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