[shevlin]

Hello I have an annoying highway vibration that I am having trouble diagnosing. I'll start with the problem and then explain what I have tried so far. It is a 2007 Tech. I purchased the car last April with 95k miles on it and it has almost 105k on it now. It has always done this the whole time I have had it.

When traveling on the highway at speeds above 68-70 MPH the car has a vibration that comes a goes. I can not feel it in the steering wheel it is mostly felt in the seat and center console and floor area. Leading me to believe that it is coming from the rear. It seems to get worse going around a bend, either left or right it doesn't matter, but this is not always the case. Sometimes it will get worse or better in just a straight line. Sometimes it is almost not there and other times it is really bad. It seems to do it less when it is colder outside. Traveling down the highway a few weeks ago when it was single digit temps outside it was very minimal. This observation was only recently noticed, this is the first winter with the car.


What I have done so far.

-The first set of wheels and tires were road force matched and balanced, and they balanced out great. All wheels were checked for out of round and runout with a dial indicator on the car. Everything was well within Acura specs. - No change

-This same process was done with a second set of wheels and tires when new tires were put on. Bridgestone dueler ecopia. And again everything was well within spec. - No change

-The rear swaybar bushings were replaced with poly bushings. - No change

-The rear differential was replaced (used out of a 2010 with 40k miles). - No change

-Rear brake pads were replaced and rotors were turned. - No change

-All rear suspension bushing were replaced, this includes all control arms and trailing arms. - No change

-The car was aligned. - No change

-Rear shocks were replaced. - No change

-Front wheel bearings were replaced for a different reason. - No change

-The driveshaft(propshaft) was removed and the car was driven without it. - No change



The following is what is next on the list in no particular order, but please let me know if you have any more suggestions.

-Replace rear wheel bearings.

-Replace rear sub-frame to chassis bushings.

-Replace both rear cv shafts.

-Replace engine mounts.

-Replace front sub-frame to chassis mounts.

-Replace power steering pump.


Thanks for any input you might have.

 

[sj993]

I had a similar issue at highway speeds. It was hard to tell where exactly the vibration was coming from, front or rear. I ended up replacing the front lower control arms for a different reason even though technically the ball joints were still good. This fixed the vibration issue. The control arms also came with new compliance bushings. You may check the ball joints for any play. Mine had none, but they would make a crunching noise going in and out of the driveway which is why I replaced them. Good luck.

 

[Bluepill]

This is a great tool for finding vibration/noise:

Bottom-line pricing on Steelman 6600 at ToolTopia.com


It is a required tool for Honda and Acura dealers.

 

[shevlin]

I had a similar issue at highway speeds. It was hard to tell where exactly the vibration was coming from, front or rear. I ended up replacing the front lower control arms for a different reason even though technically the ball joints were still good. This fixed the vibration issue. The control arms also came with new compliance bushings. You may check the ball joints for any play. Mine had none, but they would make a crunching noise going in and out of the driveway which is why I replaced them. Good luck.

Did you go with OEM replacements or did you buy aftermarket?

This is a great tool for finding vibration/noise:




It is a required tool for Honda and Acura dealers.

Thanks this would come in handy for some other projects too.



As for an update I have new hub/wheel bearings sitting at home that I will hopefully get installed soon. I also picked up a set of rear CV shafts off of a 2011 with 60k miles. Those will be going on at the same time as the hubs. If that doesn't fix it I may take sj993's suggestion and replace the front control arms with compliance bushing.

 

[sj993]

I went with OEM for the control arms. I just wasn't sure about the quality of aftermarket.

 

[shevlin]

Here is another update.

I replaced the rear hubs/bearings and replaced the rear cv shafts with the lower mileage ones that I picked up. - no change
I then replaced the driveshaft(propshaft) - no change
Replaced both front lower control arms. - no change
Replaced the driver front cv shaft because the boots were leaking. - no change
Replaced the front brake rotors. - no change
Replaced front sway bar bushings. - no change


My next steps will most likely replace the right front cv shaft and the large subframe to chassis busnings. If that doesn't work then next might be the power steering rack and power steering pump.

 

[DJJ]

I have a vibration that occurs at 40mph and 70 mph. Dealer just road tested it with me and said the drive shaft needs to be replaced (2008 with 160,000miles) Cost of drive shaft $1000

 

[Bluepill]

Before you spend that kind money, you might want to check for a used part or have a driveline specialist check to see if yours is repairable.

 

[shevlin]

I was told by a local driveshaft shop that it was not repairable. I replaced mine with a new OEM one. It didn't make any difference in my case.

 

[racer001]

I had this same problem in a 2012 and finally took it to the dealer after taking it to a couple of really good tire dealers in town. They had the MDX for over a week and when I picked it up it was fixed. They said there was a tire that had been plugged and had the wrong weights on it. Never had another problem.

 

[Apex1]

I am dealing with inconsistent vibrations at 70-80 mph. I bought the vehicle with badly chopped tires, so i replaced them almost immediately. Since the new tires, I have had vibration issues.

Vibrations can actually be measured and there is a definite difference between vibrations originating from tire speed, engine speed, or driveshaft speed. I invested in the following application to try and solve my issue. Its not cheap but either is a lot of trips to the ship.

Noise Vibration Harshness NVH App Vibrate Software Automotive Diagnosis

For me, the application points to both 1st order and 2nd order tire speed related vibrations. The app suggests a run-out issue or sidewall force variation (bad tire) is the cause.

 

[shevlin]

I am dealing with inconsistent vibrations at 70-80 mph. I bought the vehicle with badly chopped tires, so i replaced them almost immediately. Since the new tires, I have had vibration issues.

Vibrations can actually be measured and there is a definite difference between vibrations originating from tire speed, engine speed, or driveshaft speed. I invested in the following application to try and solve my issue. Its not cheap but either is a lot of trips to the ship.

Noise Vibration Harshness NVH App Vibrate Software Automotive Diagnosis

For me, the application points to both 1st order and 2nd order tire speed related vibrations. The app suggests a run-out issue or sidewall force variation (bad tire) is the cause.

Thanks for this. Hopefully the Android version of the app comes out soon.

As far as an update with the car. I have new front struts, strut mounts, inner, and outer tie rod ends sitting at home. I am hoping to get them replaced in the next week or two when I have some free time. After that as far as anything suspension related or rotating mass I don't have much left to replace. The right front cv shaft and the front and rear sub-frame to chassis bushings. I have almost completely rebuilt the underside of this car and what bugs me the most is nothing has changed. It has not improved or gotten worse, it's the same as it has been the whole year that I have owned it.

 

[shevlin]

Another update. I replaced the front struts and strut mounts, inner and outer tie-rod ends and had it re-aligned. This resulted in no change. I am still having the same problem as when I started on this about a year ago. I also found that the power steering rack is leaking out of the ends, so that will need to be replaced before it fails. I think I am about to throw in the towel. I have spent way too much money attempting to fix this problem. It might be time to move on and get rid of it before it drives me mad.