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Very simple, I just surprised it hasnt been done. especially with the price tag of these kits @ $500 or so. They can't say it hard because each bulb is different,etc when the kits are bulb specific. Anywho here we go.
 

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Took regular bulb I was replacing. BROKE IT! In a bag wrapped in a paper bag( I know you guys worry). I removed remaing metal, this is what Im left with. Excuse the black stuff was from electrical tape from prior mod when I felt I didnt feel safe bout it.
 

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Took portion from kit and strip the tabs they expect you just to put in the headlight harness and magically stay put.
 

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I thought I took a picture from the next step but realize now I didn't. What I did was to twist and solder and then slide each wire to each stalk and then slide some heat shrink tube over each one, after that I applied RTV to keep it water proof. and let it dry and cure and voila, not pretty but it will do the job.
 

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closer view. I feel this is safer than just sticking in connectors into the headlight harness like the original kit. and the "original" head light which gave up its life protects it. AS well as being secure when I go "offroading" :2: Still I feel it something simple they should provide for a $500 dollar kit which cost me,excluding the lives of the two bulbs 5 dollars.
 

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I CANNOT believe that you had to go through that for a $500 HID kit??? I just installed my new Philips 4300K HIDs yesterday (paid $360 shipped), the kit was very high quality and was completly PnP, no having to modify or cut-n-paste anything.
 

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it was PNP but I didnt like the fact, like it has been stated and shown here by other users. Like Here that the portion that connects from the headlight harness from the X to the ballast is just two wires with blade connections. I made this modification to keep a seal on the headlight connection and keeping everything waterproof to a point.
 

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Warzau said:
it was PNP but I didnt like the fact, like it has been stated and shown here by other users. Like Here that the portion that connects from the headlight harness from the X to the ballast is just two wires with blade connections. I made this modification to keep a seal on the headlight connection and keeping everything waterproof to a point.
I was a little confused about what you were posting of because I have not seen nor done HID change on my X. yet. But now that I know what you were doing ... that's really good information. Thanks.
 

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Warzau said:
it was PNP but I didnt like the fact, like it has been stated and shown here by other users. Like Here that the portion that connects from the headlight harness from the X to the ballast is just two wires with blade connections. I made this modification to keep a seal on the headlight connection and keeping everything waterproof to a point.
I see, my Philips units had much better connection points than yours.
 

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rvehock said:


I see, my Philips units had much better connection points than yours.
where did you get yours from?? Maybe I can just get the connector. Is your ballast a Phillips or Bosch?
 

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Warzau said:
Very simple, I just surprised it hasnt been done. especially with the price tag of these kits @ $500 or so. They can't say it hard because each bulb is different,etc when the kits are bulb specific. Anywho here we go.
Not a bad idea, I originaly used these push in pins but didn't feel comfortable with the connection. I wound up splicing into the wire before the original connection. I didn't want to cut off original connection in case I want to go back to stock bulb. That was a good idea to break bulb and connect using the old halgen plug. With my connection and yours, you will not have to worry abut corrison over a period of time. Or the connection becomming weak over time. The plug and play are usually pins that plug in, they will corride over time or loosen that's why your idea was good, or also splicing into the wiring without cutting off original plug are good options.
 

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Warzau said:
where did you get yours from?? Maybe I can just get the connector. Is your ballast a Phillips or Bosch?
My ballast is Philips, unfortunately the vendor I bought mine from has sold out of the 9006 kits.
 

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Re: Re: HID Modification I did.

paul123 said:


splicing into the wiring without cutting off original plug are good options.

I was gonna do the either taps for the line like you said but that still let the headlight harness open. Did you plug it up or tape it closed?
 

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Re: Re: Re: HID Modification I did.

Warzau said:



I was gonna do the either taps for the line like you said but that still let the headlight harness open. Did you plug it up or tape it closed?
Used electrical tape to seal all open ends to prevent corrision.
 

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Suggest instead of electrical tape to seal against corrosion, you use heat shrink tubing instead (you can get it at any Radio Shack or Fry's Electronics stores). Be sure to get the size that's just big enough to allow you to slip it over the wires and joint. Just be careful with the heat source. Best not to use open flame around engine compartments! But heat shrink'll be better than tape any day. The glue on the tape goes bad after a while due to heat in the engine compartment. Then the tape unwinds and corrosion can set in.
 

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need4spd said:
Suggest instead of electrical tape to seal against corrosion, you use heat shrink tubing instead (you can get it at any Radio Shack or Fry's Electronics stores). Be sure to get the size that's just big enough to allow you to slip it over the wires and joint. Just be careful with the heat source. Best not to use open flame around engine compartments! But heat shrink'll be better than tape any day. The glue on the tape goes bad after a while due to heat in the engine compartment. Then the tape unwinds and corrosion can set in.
Thanks for the tip, a very good idea.
 
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