Help ID this part - tab on rear crossmember
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It wont show in the owners manual since that is "Factory Assembly" Jacking Point.
The manual will state that only the side anchors are the only ones to change the tires for insurance issues, Those jacking points in the front and rear subframe are the ones used in the factory assembly line to support the vehicle once it gets its tires.. I have used mine plenty of times but in the case of the 2G there isn´t that extra part below the subframe? Seems rather weak to support the entire rear axle though.
Can anyone else confirm they have jacked up the 3G by that point?
The manual will state that only the side anchors are the only ones to change the tires for insurance issues, Those jacking points in the front and rear subframe are the ones used in the factory assembly line to support the vehicle once it gets its tires.. I have used mine plenty of times but in the case of the 2G there isn´t that extra part below the subframe? Seems rather weak to support the entire rear axle though.
Can anyone else confirm they have jacked up the 3G by that point?
It seems that the only time I'd use it as a jacking point would be to get both rears off the ground, and I just don't see that happening. It'll be much better utilized on a daily basis as a location for a auxiliary reverse light. It's similar to what I did on my F150 for additional ground lighting to assist the rather unusable camera at night. The 35% tints don't help either.
It looks like two small pieces of aluminum flat bar will sandwich that jacking point just fine for my needs. The jacking point is about 2" lower than the rear fascia and thus will limit the amount of upward diffused light. Should have a nice cutoff and illuminate the ground behind the car.
It looks like two small pieces of aluminum flat bar will sandwich that jacking point just fine for my needs. The jacking point is about 2" lower than the rear fascia and thus will limit the amount of upward diffused light. Should have a nice cutoff and illuminate the ground behind the car.
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Looks like some kind of appendage for moving the frame on an assembly line during the build process. Maybe how they clip the frame to the assembly line as the vehicle moves from station to station is my guess.
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The point helps if you ever want to change both rear brakes without having to jack up each corner. On my other vehicle i also use a similar point for the rear differential fluid changes or when i need to get the entire car into 4 stands
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Got it. I'd like to say that I'll be doing this in the future, but I have to be honest and say that the convenience of dealer service has far outweighed my want to service vehicles in my driveway. I suppose that I'm choosing to cash in my hard work during the week for this. I'd rather spend my weekends shooting, playing golf, hanging with the wife, etc. :grin:
Just yesterday, I was installing an OEM Acura towing kit on my MDX 2015, and I couldn't find a suitable point to safely raise the vehicle. I found that I could do it without jacking. I saw that flimsy little tab and ruled it out immediately. I suspect that it's a production tab. I usually jack the pumpkin, but this one is so intricate, and expensive, I won't be doing that.
Looks like it was made just for that:29:
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Sad to hear the 3G was made slightly inferior on some ways probably part of the Weight Reduction plan...
My 2G MDX jacking point has been useful plenty of times, for example when I rotate my tires? or doing the rear brake pads using a 4 ton jack it was a breeze.
Here is the 2G MDX Jacking Point which doesn´t seem like much but do the job:
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My 2G MDX jacking point has been useful plenty of times, for example when I rotate my tires? or doing the rear brake pads using a 4 ton jack it was a breeze.
Here is the 2G MDX Jacking Point which doesn´t seem like much but do the job:
It's actually a stout little tab upon further inspection. Welded in 4 places to the cross member. I could see it holding weight, but i'm not sure I'd love doing it. Worked great for my project needs though!
Found here:
http://www.mdxers.org/forums/94-thi...4218-aux-reverse-light-install-rigid-srq.html
Found here:
http://www.mdxers.org/forums/94-thi...4218-aux-reverse-light-install-rigid-srq.html
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I noticed the 2G already has a handy hole in the middle of the jack point? Probably it would be easier to do your Reverse Light mod on it.. Could you share the link for the LED light bar you bought? And where do you tap the wires in? Directly to the reverse lights or to the rear fuse box?
It's a Rigid SRQ. Got mine off Amazon but there are a few hundred places to find them. You'll also want their 3' pigtail extension.
I tapped into the harness inside the cabin so that if anything went wrong I was only out the trailer harness and not a fuse panel or other more permanent wiring bundle.
I tapped into the harness inside the cabin so that if anything went wrong I was only out the trailer harness and not a fuse panel or other more permanent wiring bundle.
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It a warning tab for clearance letting you know your to close to damaging your suv. It for ground clearance before bottoming out. From the rear as to why there is covers on the front of the suv the rear can not have covers. The front cover also protect from dirt water salt etc. From entire onto the transmission, engine diff power steering and belts as while fog lights horn and other such components the are or would be exposed to the ground that tab help keep lots of things from gaining access to your rear differential.
Call it
Safety Tab
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