Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All!

Wanted to join because we (Wife and I) picked up a 2013 MDX Tech with Ent (Shoshanna) with 36k mi about 6 weeks ago.

It is a certified pre-owned car, which came with fresh tires and brake pads. As I was reading over the CPO checklist and doing some research online, I noticed that the dealer could have/should have(?) changed the trans/transfer case/rear diff/brake fluids...but didn't(called service dept to check on service history). According to Acura, all these fluid changes are done based on the color of the fluid...but wouldn't that leave a lot of grey area for determination of what/when to change?

I called my two local dealers and the prices are similar for the trans/transfer case/rear diff/brake fluid service at mid $400's.

The car has 41k mi now, and my wife drives 140 miles per day (3k mi per month), not including weekends. I want to get these fluids changed because I am planning to drive this car until it ultimately dies, and feel that this is "cheap insurance" and since I bought the extended warranty until 120k mi, this maintenance is part of keeping the warranty active.

Do I have a case to argue with the dealer about the inclusion of the service during the CPO prep/reconditioning of the car? I'm not unwilling to pay for the service, but I partially think I paid for it somewhat when I bought a 36k mi CPO car. Thoughts?

Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
With the exception of brake fluid (which is a fixed three years) the other fluid services are technically due when the MID que's them. Whether or not the MID has already done that or if the prior owner completed those services is unknown for sure. That's why the CPO process calls for an inspection of fluids and that's it. If the fluids look good, it passes inspection and you don't have a case to argue the service should have been performed. Now if you check the fluids yourself and they look like trash then perhaps you have an argument but giving the timing that's not much of a case either. That's just the reality of buying a used car, certified or not.

The rear diff was likely changed in the 15k-20k range which is when the MID typically calls for that service. The second diff change usually shows up in the 45k-50k range.

That being said, if you plan to keep the vehicle a long time it's probably a good idea to service all of these since you really don't know what's been done before. $400 does not sound out of line for all those items. Maybe check the dealer websites for coupons or specials. My dealer always has 10% coupon or something similar running online or sent to my email.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Skinny!

My hope is to take the car when it hits 100k from my wife and get her something newer, therefore want to make sure that is maintained as it should be.

I'm also going to be replacing the air and cabin filters every 3 or 4 months to maintain the MPG's and to make sure the air inside is "clean".

Any other maintenance items I should consider?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,338 Posts
When I bought mine I did pretty much everything in the book regardless of mileage or MID notices so I know that everything was done prior to driving it (And also keep track of everything).

What I can tell you:

Rear Diff is done wayyy too prematurely (As per Manual every 15K) the oil that came out luckily was the DPSF Oil, In case you don't know our 2G still used ATF-Z1 as Rear Diff Oil but when Acura Axed Z1 they came out with a new oil called "AWD DPSF " specially for SH-AWD rear diffs. When I drained it, it was literally brand new as clean as the DPSF I was about to fill it with. So I would not mind the Rear Diff Oil since you can change this yourself.

Transfer Case: Again this is done way too fast, Our transfer case only job is to hold the Gear Oil for the Diff and Driveshaft bevel gears so in a way the oil does very little since it doesn't have to lubricate a lot of things like in a real transfer case. You can do this yourself and save money.

Transmission: This is important! I would not neglect the ATF for too long, Change it ASAP. You can do this yourself.

Brake Fluid: This is not that important, Brake Fluid attracts moisture and that makes it susceptible to boiling.. Unless you drive the car like you stole it you could probably use the same brake fluid for life. In any case the procedure to drain and fill the brake fluid is more complicated than the Rear Diff/Transfer/ATF together. Pay Honda/Acura to do this and make them change it for something better (OEM is DOT 3) you can use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (FIVE POINT ONE). Do not use DOT 5 (FIVE) because it is not compatible with our brake system and will destroy it.


In resume:
You can pretty much do every of those items except for the brake fluid, Not because is particularly difficult but because the time involved and the work does not offset the money you will save for not doing it at the dealership.

For the Trans/Transfer/Rear Diff you can save all the labor and do it yourself.
What tools you need:
1.- Ramps
2.- Differential Fill Tool (This works for both the diff and transfer) http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK
3.- Washers for the Diff/Transfer fill and drain and Transmission drain.
4.- Long Neck Funnel for the Trans fill.
What oils you need:
1.- For the Trans = Honda/Acura ATF DW-1 x 4: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08200-9008-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0089LSMSE/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462827937&sr=1-2&keywords=Honda+DW-1
2.- For the Rear Diff = ACURA only AWD DPSF (#08200-9007A) x 3: 08200-9007A | Acura All-Wheel Drive Fluid (DPSF) - Bernardi Parts
3.- For the Transfer = MOBIL 1 LS GEAR OIL 75W-90 x 2: Amazon.com: Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart: Automotive

And that's it! The change procedure DIY are found in the Forum.
Hope this helps you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Minor yet important...when you change the transfer case fluid and/or the rear diff fluid yourself, keep the vehicle level.
I use 4 ea. 6 ton jack stands on a relatively level garage floor.
But then again, as mentioned above these two fluids stay very, very clean.

To change the tranny fluid you can use 2 ea. jack stands.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,338 Posts
^ Tip: Rear diff can be done without even lifting the car at all on flat ground.

OP But yeah replace ramps with Jacks instead.
I keep saying ramps every time I give that advice but I keep forgetting I do this work in a Decline ramp to my garage.. When using the ramps my car actually stays level so I can get away without lifting the whole car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
Rear Diff is done wayyy too prematurely (As per Manual every 15K) the oil that came out luckily was the DPSF Oil,
From what I've researched and how my MID has alerted, it's ~15k the first time but then ~30k mile intervals thereafter. I ended up doing it around 30k the second time as well just so all the major fluids were on the same interval.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all for your posts!

Truthfully, I would love to do the work myself, as I am the family resident mechanic (spark plugs, brake jobs, etc...)..but theres a BUT. The car is my wife's daily driver and I'm willing to spend extra to have the dealer do these maintenance items and have records for all of the work performed, so that in the event that something does go...i have the paperwork to back up that I did my duty and...I get a loaner for the day or however long while it's in the shop. Now...when I take the car from her at 100k or 120k....I will do all the work myself.

The only things I will be doing myself on this car until I take it are brake jobs, as they have very little impact on warranty coverage of related parts. Knowing Honda and their history with V6's and Automatics (circa 2003/2004 Honda Accord and the like), I don't feel like playing with fire and trying to prove to the dealer that I did as good a job as their techs.

My only concern with dealer work is this: I will play roughly $450+tax and have very little proof that they actually replaced the fluids. This part I don't particularly like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
When I bought mine I did pretty much everything in the book regardless of mileage or MID notices so I know that everything was done prior to driving it (And also keep track of everything).

What I can tell you:

Rear Diff is done wayyy too prematurely (As per Manual every 15K) the oil that came out luckily was the DPSF Oil, In case you don't know our 2G still used ATF-Z1 as Rear Diff Oil but when Acura Axed Z1 they came out with a new oil called "AWD DPSF " specially for SH-AWD rear diffs. When I drained it, it was literally brand new as clean as the DPSF I was about to fill it with. So I would not mind the Rear Diff Oil since you can change this yourself.

Transfer Case: Again this is done way too fast, Our transfer case only job is to hold the Gear Oil for the Diff and Driveshaft bevel gears so in a way the oil does very little since it doesn't have to lubricate a lot of things like in a real transfer case. You can do this yourself and save money.

Transmission: This is important! I would not neglect the ATF for too long, Change it ASAP. You can do this yourself.

Brake Fluid: This is not that important, Brake Fluid attracts moisture and that makes it susceptible to boiling.. Unless you drive the car like you stole it you could probably use the same brake fluid for life. In any case the procedure to drain and fill the brake fluid is more complicated than the Rear Diff/Transfer/ATF together. Pay Honda/Acura to do this and make them change it for something better (OEM is DOT 3) you can use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (FIVE POINT ONE). Do not use DOT 5 (FIVE) because it is not compatible with our brake system and will destroy it.


In resume:
You can pretty much do every of those items except for the brake fluid, Not because is particularly difficult but because the time involved and the work does not offset the money you will save for not doing it at the dealership.

For the Trans/Transfer/Rear Diff you can save all the labor and do it yourself.
What tools you need:
1.- Ramps
2.- Differential Fill Tool (This works for both the diff and transfer) http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK
3.- Washers for the Diff/Transfer fill and drain and Transmission drain.
4.- Long Neck Funnel for the Trans fill.
What oils you need:
1.- For the Trans = Honda/Acura ATF DW-1 x 4: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08200-9008-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0089LSMSE/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462827937&sr=1-2&keywords=Honda+DW-1
2.- For the Rear Diff = ACURA only AWD DPSF (#08200-9007A) x 3: 08200-9007A | Acura All-Wheel Drive Fluid (DPSF) - Bernardi Parts
3.- For the Transfer = MOBIL 1 LS GEAR OIL 75W-90 x 2: Amazon.com: Mobil 1 104361 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart: Automotive

And that's it! The change procedure DIY are found in the Forum.
Hope this helps you.
Minor yet important...when you change the transfer case fluid and/or the rear diff fluid yourself, keep the vehicle level.
I use 4 ea. 6 ton jack stands on a relatively level garage floor.
But then again, as mentioned above these two fluids stay very, very clean.

To change the tranny fluid you can use 2 ea. jack stands, but you're lucky and have a wife that can fit under the truck, without the stands.
^ Tip: Rear diff can be done without even lifting the car at all on flat ground.

OP But yeah replace ramps with Jacks instead.
I keep saying ramps every time I give that advice but I keep forgetting I do this work in a Decline ramp to my garage.. When using the ramps my car actually stays level so I can get away without lifting the whole car.
From what I've researched and how my MID has alerted, it's ~15k the first time but then ~30k mile intervals thereafter. I ended up doing it around 30k the second time as well just so all the major fluids were on the same interval.

Thank you very much for this excellent information!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,338 Posts
As long as you keep the receipts and use OEM where is needed (AWD DPSF for Diff and DW-1 for Trans) there is no way Acura could void your warranty for changing those items yourself. Even in the remote case something failed under warranty those OEM oils would still be in the diff and the trans.. They wont found different fluids to help a miss use case.

Unless you do it yourself, You are under the dealership right justness.. I would personally avoid using the dealership for doing all this work specially since its a heck of a lot of extra money but since you are concerned about the warranty there is little you can do with this.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top