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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a hell of time getting it started when cold out usually have try 3-4 times once it’s warmed up no problem no codes kicked out
 

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If it is turning over as quickly as normal when trying to start, I'd bet bad gas (damp probably), or need valve adjustment. What's the current mileage on the car, and if you've done a valve adjustment what mileage was that?
 

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* could also be bad intake air temp sensor, or bad coolant temp sensor, but not so bad it is out of a reasonable range.

Get a code scanner hooked up and look at live data and see what those values are showing immediately after cold start, and watch to be sure they rise correctly as it runs.
 

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Crank position sensors are notorious for this kind of symptom, too. I agree that reading any codes is the best approach at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If it is turning over as quickly as normal when trying to start, I'd bet bad gas (damp probably), or need valve adjustment. What's the current mileage on the car, and if you've done a valve adjustment what mileage was that?
It’s got 225k miles on it and haven’t done a valve adjustment it turns over quickly but doesn’t catch when dies ideals really rough for minute then smooths out
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
* could also be bad intake air temp sensor, or bad coolant temp sensor, but not so bad it is out of a reasonable range.

Get a code scanner hooked up and look at live data and see what those values are showing immediately after cold start, and watch to be sure they rise correctly as it runs.
I will try that unfortunately my code reader doesn’t do live results
 

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You're 100,000 overdue for a valve adjustment. I'd do that first unless you don't care about this car and just limping it along before it dies. Did you do the timing belt at 100k miles?

I didn't know crank position sensors were known for going bad without throwing a code.

You can buy cheap code readers on Amazon, and even (I think most) of the $20 Bluetooth ones with the free Torque app on your phone show live results. Mine does. But it's so old I doubt that exact one is still available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You're 100,000 overdue for a valve adjustment. I'd do that first unless you don't care about this car and just limping it along before it dies. Did you do the timing belt at 100k miles?

I didn't know crank position sensors were known for going bad without throwing a code.

You can buy cheap code readers on Amazon, and even (I think most) of the $20 Bluetooth ones with the free Torque app on your phone show live results. Mine does. But it's so old I doubt that exact one is still available.
Yeah I do timing belt water pump every 70 k miles was just done and yes I care about the car I do plenty to keep it in top condition just was unaware of the valve adjustment
 

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I didn't mean it in a bad way. I've limped many cars along until I found a car I wanted. I'm close to that point with the MDX. But I do want it both safe and comfortable for towing our camping trailer on our thousand mile trips.

I always put a bookmark in the owner's manual page with the service schedule , or print from online, and highlight any I think are important or easy to miss.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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What’s cold? 58F in SoCal is “freezing” to wimps like me.

If it starts fine when warmed up, I would suspect thick oil and/or incorrect air/fuel mixture. 5W20 is spec and 0W20 can be run unless your rings and valve seals are too worn. Air filter OK? Throttle body might need cleaning as gunk builds up between the throttle plate and TB bore. It’s a fairly simple/inexpensive cleaning job. A number of YouTubes on it. Just don’t spray the throttle plate shafts with cleaner bc you could wash away the shaft lubricant and the plate could start sticking. Better to spray cleaner on a rag and just wipe the bore and edges of the plate. There’s also bore in the hole that the MAP sits in that can clog up. The bore goes to a point behind the plate and if clogged, your MAP sensor performance could be affected. If you take the MAP off, it looks like a blind hole but there is a passage going perpendicular to the bore.

Good luck!
 

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Have a hell of time getting it started when cold out usually have try 3-4 times once it’s warmed up no problem no codes kicked out
Without having hands on it, my first thoughts would be fuel injectors, valves, or fuel filter. With that many miles it could really be any of them or a combination. I would DEFINITELY adjust the valves, it's a fairly easy DIY project, hard starting is the main symptom, there are no parts involved, and you're a brisk 100,000 miles overdue. If you do decide to do it there's no reason not to do a thorough cleaning on everything since you'll have it all apart anyway. You can pull the injectors out and have them professionally cleaned and tested unfortunately they are rather expensive to replace. Replace the spark plugs, test the coil packs, clean the egr ports, and clean the throttle body. The good thing is that Acura engines will run forever, the bad thing is that about every 100,000 miles all this stuff needs to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Without having hands on it, my first thoughts would be fuel injectors, valves, or fuel filter. With that many miles it could really be any of them or a combination. I would DEFINITELY adjust the valves, it's a fairly easy DIY project, hard starting is the main symptom, there are no parts involved, and you're a brisk 100,000 miles overdue. If you do decide to do it there's no reason not to do a thorough cleaning on everything since you'll have it all apart anyway. You can pull the injectors out and have them professionally cleaned and tested unfortunately they are rather expensive to replace. Replace the spark plugs, test the coil packs, clean the egr ports, and clean the throttle body. The good thing is that Acura engines will run forever, the bad thing is that about every 100,000 miles all this stuff needs to be done.
Question will cause any damage not doing the valve adjustment right away my mechanic wants $550 money tight right now they are not tapping just hard starting in real cold weather
 

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Valves are one of those things like missed or extended oil changes that don't damage your car all at once, but over time do damage the engine slowly. Your car will be fine if it goes over 6k between oil changes, it will be ok if it goes to 10k once in a while if you forget. But the more you do it, and the longer it goes, will reduce its life.

If they get badly misadjusted can cause various problems such as valve and seat erosion and increased valvetrain wear. If yours are that way, the damage is already done. If you do 2k miles a month or less, waiting until March isn't going to be that big of a deal, other than you'll probably be wearing on your starter a lot faster if the starting has become that hard. If you are putting 5k a month on your car, that's a lot more wear and I'd try to find a way to do them earlier even if it was myself.

You can look at some of the simpler to check items other people said while you wait for warmer weather. Personally with no error codes, I'm thinking its going to be the valves.

Check spark plugs, clean the EGR ports, clean the throttle body, check the cam sensor, coolant temp, intake temp, MAP, TPS and APP sensors. Though a lot of these things will generally throw an error code (maybe not the cam sensor and egr port dirty).

I'd probably buy a $20 Bluetooth OBD scanner dongle on Amazon, and use the Torque Lite app, to try to look at some of the sensor live data to be sure it looks reasonable and is not way off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Valves are one of those things like missed or extended oil changes that don't damage your car all at once, but over time do damage the engine slowly. Your car will be fine if it goes over 6k between oil changes, it will be ok if it goes to 10k once in a while if you forget. But the more you do it, and the longer it goes, will reduce its life.

If they get badly misadjusted can cause various problems such as valve and seat erosion and increased valvetrain wear. If yours are that way, the damage is already done. If you do 2k miles a month or less, waiting until March isn't going to be that big of a deal, other than you'll probably be wearing on your starter a lot faster if the starting has become that hard. If you are putting 5k a month on your car, that's a lot more wear and I'd try to find a way to do them earlier even if it was myself.

You can look at some of the simpler to check items other people said while you wait for warmer weather. Personally with no error codes, I'm thinking its going to be the valves.

Check spark plugs, clean the EGR ports, clean the throttle body, check the cam sensor, coolant temp, intake temp, MAP, TPS and APP sensors. Though a lot of these things will generally throw an error code (maybe not the cam sensor and egr port dirty).

I'd probably buy a $20 Bluetooth OBD scanner dongle on Amazon, and use the Torque Lite app, to try to look at some of the sensor live data to be sure it looks reasonable and is not way off.
Thanks for all that information I change the oil every 3 k miles with mobile 1 high mileage and tranny fluid 3 times 4 every 40 k Miles I will do valves soon as warms up I live in Colorado so pretty cold right now
 

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It’s easy and quick to start cheap. Add Techron to gas $20 - see if anything improves. Clean TB $15, 25 min job, check for improvement. If not, check/change plugs, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It’s easy and quick to start cheap. Add Techron to gas $20 - see if anything improves. Clean TB $15, 25 min job, check for improvement. If not, check/change plugs, etc.
I’ll try that I recently cleaned the throdle body plugs changed about 40 k ago
 
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