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congratulation
 

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Can you share how do you break loose the crank bolt?
Beefy impact + a Lisle Honda Crank Socket is what I used. Other options are using the Honda crank holder, a large pry bar, and long pipe to get better leverage. I have a 6 foot pipe that I use for my Lexus timing belt one. Wear safety goggles.

 

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Other options are using the Honda crank holder, a large pry bar, and long pipe to get better leverage.
Yep. This is exactly what I used back in 2014 when I did the first TB. Broke two extensions with a weight of two adults that were a bit overwheight (myself included).

Wear safety goggles.
Most definitely!
 

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Can you share how do you break loose the crank bolt?
my experience breaking that bolt loose on an 04 Pilot, 06 Civic and 09 MDX is it takes about 1000 ft-lbs to break it loose the first time. I have an air compressor with an impact wrench rated at 1000 ft-lbs, I run a straight air line without quick disconnects to avoid loses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
These timing belt kit still looking pretty good after 100k miles.
Side note I had to make an opening on the lower timing belt cover for easy hydroelectric tensioner replacement.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Took me literally almost 10 hours to do this because I did on the street while traffic was passing by. I almost fuk up with the water pump when installing.
I crossed threads one of the water pump screws and it was getting tighter to get in and tighter to get it out and every time I turned the screw in or out it was getting tighter and tighter. Getting panicked and I took break and figured what I am supposed to do. Well I took a gamble and tried to get it out and prying the screw doesn’t snapped. It was really hard to screw it out and had a feeling it could snap off any time. Luckily I was able to get out without broken. At this point i was a little bit relief. My next worry is the damage threads on the engine block. I try to used the other bolt and slowly try to rethread on the engine block. I was struggling making the bolt to in straight but eventually it went in straight and a few back and forth turning I got threads on the engine block back to at least normal again. Went to Home Depot and luckily they have the last bolt in stock of the same thread and length. Went back to my car and reinstalled the water pump and everything goin back in ok. What a relief! I think the problem was that the bolt didn’t get in straight and it was very hard trying see what is going. I noticed something wasn’t right because I felt tight when installing the screw and I ignored it and kept turning. I was tired and want to get this thing done because I had already spent 6 hours.
 

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Those pulleys do not look good. I don't remember any of mine looking similar after both TBs I did. They were always clean. I wonder if your engine was overheating which caused some rubber melting and embedding onto the pulleys.

Also, can you explain why you had to cut out the covers for the tensioner replacement? You need to take the covers off to replace the belt and pulleys anyway. What was the purpose of the cutout? Did you seal it with anything? I would think dust and dirt constantly getting inside is not a great idea for those components.
 

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I remember he replaced tensioner once without taking apart everything

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Those pulleys do not look good. I don't remember any of mine looking similar after both TBs I did. They were always clean. I wonder if your engine was overheating which caused some rubber melting and embedding onto the pulleys.

Also, can you explain why you had to cut out the covers for the tensioner replacement? You need to take the covers off to replace the belt and pulleys anyway. What was the purpose of the cutout? Did you seal it with anything? I would think dust and dirt constantly getting inside is not a great idea for those components.
I think it's the dust getting hot / adhering under pressure. I've seen it before in other cars but not usually quite that much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Those pulleys do not look good. I don't remember any of mine looking similar after both TBs I did. They were always clean. I wonder if your engine was overheating which caused some rubber melting and embedding onto the pulleys.

Also, can you explain why you had to cut out the covers for the tensioner replacement? You need to take the covers off to replace the belt and pulleys anyway. What was the purpose of the cutout? Did you seal it with anything? I would think dust and dirt constantly getting inside is not a great idea for those components.
I had two incidents that my tensioner making lord noise in cold start after 50k miles and I had to remove a lot of things to remove the bottom cover. Someone in here recommended to cut the cover open for easy tensioner replacement if it’s making loud noise too early and recommended aluminum tape to cover it up.
 
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