Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an '07 MDX SH AWD needing front strut/shock replacement. It has close to 170k miles and the ride is AWFUL. The shop has given me the option to bypass the electronic part. It only saves $300-$400. Is it worth it? Will the car lose any necessary function? I'd love to same some $$ but I want to make sure it's the right choice. Please help! I do not want to see any yellow lights on my dash so if this will throw a code it will not be worth it to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
This will be long, but you won't have to read the 800 post thread, on the subject.

You will have a hard time finding a repair shop that will put non-ads shocks on a car that requires ads shocks.
You will have a hard time getting a repair shop to allow you to bring your parts, to have the shop install them.
You will have a hard time getting the repair shop to get the yellow warning lights to go out.

Can you do the nuts & bolts work yourself or can you use Facebook to find an Acura/Honda car club where someone that works on Acuras might be available?
It is an easy project to do, but mechanics don't do this kind of specially work often and don't want to deal with you explaining how it needs to be done.

I did my own 3 times.
1st time it was to get rid of the ads system.
2nd time it was because Acura extended my warranty, but I had to have the busted ads shocks on the MDX, to get new ones.
3rd time was because I liked the ride of the non-ads shocks better than the new ads shocks. I'm considering selling the ads set, for $1,800 shipped, but would rather sell and help someone install (free help) them locally.

Here are your 2007 MDX Sport numbers and prices, but you have to add shipping & labor (about 5 hrs at $180/hr at the Acura dealer = $900ish):

Existing front ads drivers left shock assy
51602-stx-365 msrp at Acura dealer = $1,345.60 internet OEM price = $941.92

Existing front ads passenger right shock assy
51601-stx-365 msrp at Acura dealer = $1,345.60 internet OEM price = $941.92

Existing rear ads shocks have the same number
52610-stx-A55 msrp at Acura dealer = $516.67 internet OEM price = $361.67
MSRP Acura dealerTotal = $3,724.54 vs internet OEM price = $2,607.18

2007 MDX Base Model OEM alternative numbers and prices, but you have to add shipping and labor if you can find anyone to tackle the job:

note = OEM front assembly is mandatory. You can not re-use the ads springs and mounts, because the non-ads shock don't fit (the holes don't line up).

Base non-ads Oem fronts have the same part number
51602-stx-A06 msrp = $ 402.45 online OEM price = $281.72 each

Base non-ads OEM rears have the same number
52610-stx-A02 msrp = 155.00 online OEM price = 108.50 each.

For the rears you can (most do) use KYB shocks number 349025 The Rockauto dot com price = $50.79 each

The resistors are found at mouser dot com
Each front will need a 5 ohm resistor #71-cp00105r000je14
Each rear will need a 2 ohm resistor #71-cp00102r000ke14

Each of your front ads shock assemblies have an end link and you probably (most likely) won't be able to reuse them. You can go to rockauto dot com and get either the Proforged #11310240 for $22.89 each or get the AC Delco front end links #88876421 for $11.30 each

Here's the sequence to make the yellow warning light go away:

1. Start the MDX and select the "Comfort" mode.
2. Turn off the MDX and disconnect the 12 volt battery terminals.
3. Plug the resistors in and hold them in place with a piece of electrical tape. You don't need to use a lot of tape at this point, but you will latter, after you take the mdx for a final test drive.
4. Connect the battery
5. NEVER EVER touch the "comfort" button again, for as long as you own the MDX. If you do, the yellow warning will come on and you will have to remove each resistor and repeat this anti-warning light sequence.
6. Start the MDX and drive it, if the ads system does not see one of your new resistors, you will get the yellow warning light, within a couple of miles.
6a. If you do get the yellow light, you need to pull out the resistors and repeat this sequence. In my case, one of my pieces of electrical tape was loose and I had to pull that resistor out, before I repeated this anti-warning light sequence.
6b. You drive a couple of miles and no yellow warning lights come on...Thoroughly and Carefully re-tape each resistor.

In my case, I pulled the comfort switch out of its holder, started the motor, put it in "Comfort" mode, turned off the motor, removed the battery cables, and carefully removed the Comfort switch (without pressing it), so it could never be pushed again. I let the wiring harness fall in to the console and snapped the switch back in to its hole.

My entire cost after shipping was right at $700 vs almost $4,700 at the Acura Service Department.
I wanted to buy myself some Mugen mf-10 rims, for my 2001 Integra Type R, but my better half said NO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Wow! Thanks for the info! I absolutely cannot do this work myself and my other 1/2 would prefer to pay than spend his time doing it. So.... here we are. I have found a shop that will do either. I just dont know if the savings is worth it. I I theres a reason the system was built the way it was so if I go trying to bypass it, will the car lose any functions? Will it still be worth something when I sell it?
It sounds like the non-ads, though much less expensive, is a lot of trouble and I should probably opt for OEM. I just dont want to risk all that money and oops I pushed a button and now all this has to be done again, etc.
Would you agree?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,235 Posts
This will be long, but you won't have to read the 800 post thread, on the subject.

You will have a hard time finding a repair shop that will put non-ads shocks on a car that requires ads shocks.
You will have a hard time getting a repair shop to allow you to bring your parts, to have the shop install them.
You will have a hard time getting the repair shop to get the yellow warning lights to go out.

Can you do the nuts & bolts work yourself or can you use Facebook to find an Acura/Honda car club where someone that works on Acuras might be available?
It is an easy project to do, but mechanics don't do this kind of specially work often and don't want to deal with you explaining how it needs to be done.

I did my own 3 times.
1st time it was to get rid of the ads system.
2nd time it was because Acura extended my warranty, but I had to have the busted ads shocks on the MDX, to get new ones.
3rd time was because I liked the ride of the non-ads shocks better than the new ads shocks. I'm considering selling the ads set, for $1,800 shipped, but would rather sell and help someone install (free help) them locally.

Here are your 2007 MDX Sport numbers and prices, but you have to add shipping & labor (about 5 hrs at $180/hr at the Acura dealer = $900ish):

Existing front ads drivers left shock assy
51602-stx-365 msrp at Acura dealer = $1,345.60 internet OEM price = $941.92

Existing front ads passenger right shock assy
51601-stx-365 msrp at Acura dealer = $1,345.60 internet OEM price = $941.92

Existing rear ads shocks have the same number
52610-stx-A55 msrp at Acura dealer = $516.67 internet OEM price = $361.67
MSRP Acura dealerTotal = $3,724.54 vs internet OEM price = $2,607.18

2007 MDX Base Model OEM alternative numbers and prices, but you have to add shipping and labor if you can find anyone to tackle the job:

note = OEM front assembly is mandatory. You can not re-use the ads springs and mounts, because the non-ads shock don't fit (the holes don't line up).

Base non-ads Oem fronts have the same part number
51602-stx-A06 msrp = $ 402.45 online OEM price = $281.72 each

Base non-ads OEM rears have the same number
52610-stx-A02 msrp = 155.00 online OEM price = 108.50 each.

For the rears you can (most do) use KYB shocks number 349025 The Rockauto dot com price = $50.79 each

The resistors are found at mouser dot com
Each front will need a 5 ohm resistor #71-cp00105r000je14
Each rear will need a 2 ohm resistor #71-cp00102r000ke14

Each of your front ads shock assemblies have an end link and you probably (most likely) won't be able to reuse them. You can go to rockauto dot com and get either the Proforged #11310240 for $22.89 each or get the AC Delco front end links #88876421 for $11.30 each

Here's the sequence to make the yellow warning light go away:

1. Start the MDX and select the "Comfort" mode.
2. Turn off the MDX and disconnect the 12 volt battery terminals.
3. Plug the resistors in and hold them in place with a piece of electrical tape. You don't need to use a lot of tape at this point, but you will latter, after you take the mdx for a final test drive.
4. Connect the battery
5. NEVER EVER touch the "comfort" button again, for as long as you own the MDX. If you do, the yellow warning will come on and you will have to remove each resistor and repeat this anti-warning light sequence.
6. Start the MDX and drive it, if the ads system does not see one of your new resistors, you will get the yellow warning light, within a couple of miles.
6a. If you do get the yellow light, you need to pull out the resistors and repeat this sequence. In my case, one of my pieces of electrical tape was loose and I had to pull that resistor out, before I repeated this anti-warning light sequence.
6b. You drive a couple of miles and no yellow warning lights come on...Thoroughly and Carefully re-tape each resistor.

In my case, I pulled the comfort switch out of its holder, started the motor, put it in "Comfort" mode, turned off the motor, removed the battery cables, and carefully removed the Comfort switch (without pressing it), so it could never be pushed again. I let the wiring harness fall in to the console and snapped the switch back in to its hole.

My entire cost after shipping was right at $700 vs almost $4,700 at the Acura Service Department.
I wanted to buy myself some Mugen mf-10 rims, for my 2001 Integra Type R, but my better half said NO.
Do you need these parts if you use non ADS?

“Each of your front ads shock assemblies have an end link and you probably (most likely) won't be able to reuse them. You can go to rockauto dot com and get either the Proforged #11310240 for $22.89 each or get the AC Delco front end links #88876421 for $11.30 each”



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Do you need these parts if you use non ADS?

“Each of your front ads shock assemblies have an end link and you probably (most likely) won't be able to reuse them. You can go to rockauto dot com and get either the Proforged #11310240 for $22.89 each or get the AC Delco front end links #88876421 for $11.30 each”



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, the sway bar and its end links are used on all MDXes. The Sport Model uses slightly thicker sway bars and reduces side to side roll better than the Base Model MDXes' sway bars.
The Acura/Honda OEM design uses an allen insert on their front sway bar end links. You use an allen wrench, to hold the bolt from turning, as you try to loosen its nut on the front of the end link.
I couldn't get the nut all the way off without using my needle nosed vise-a-grips and they tore up the rubber of the end link.

I recommend buying 2 end links in advance (from someone that has an easy return policy, for unused parts) or living close to a parts counter.
Use the above listed part numbers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,235 Posts
Yes, the sway bar and its end links are used on all MDXes. The Sport Model uses slightly thicker sway bars and reduces side to side roll better than the Base Model MDXes' sway bars.
The Acura/Honda OEM design uses an allen insert on their front sway bar end links. You use an allen wrench, to hold the bolt from turning, as you try to loosen its nut on the front of the end link.
I couldn't get the nut all the way off without using my needle nosed vise-a-grips and they tore up the rubber of the end link.

I recommend buying 2 end links in advance (from someone that has an easy return policy, for unused parts) or living close to a parts counter.
Use the above listed part numbers.
Now I know what are you taking about. It’s the end link. I replaced mine with MOOG about 3 months ago.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Do you need these parts if you use non ADS?

“Each of your front ads shock assemblies have an end link and you probably (most likely) won't be able to reuse them. You can go to rockauto dot com and get either the Proforged #11310240 for $22.89 each or get the AC Delco front end links #88876421 for $11.30 each”



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I dont know. I'm letting the repair shop handle it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
This will be long, but you won't have to read the 800 post thread, on the subject.
Fantastic write up! Thanks for taking the time. I’ve had the rear Advance sway bar in my garage for 7 months just waiting for me to redo my whole suspension on my ‘09 Tech. It’s Winter & Wet now but I’ll use this write up to help me finalize my parts purchasing. Curious if you have an opinion on the rear shocks: OEM vs alternative? I’m saving enough money, I don’t mind buying the OEM if they’re better, but rear shocks are pretty easy to replace. I’m at ~120K & plan on at least another 100K. Your post is a sterling example of what makes this MDX forum so nice. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Wow! Thanks for the info! I absolutely cannot do this work myself and my other 1/2 would prefer to pay than spend his time doing it. So.... here we are. I have found a shop that will do either. I just dont know if the savings is worth it. I I theres a reason the system was built the way it was so if I go trying to bypass it, will the car lose any functions? Will it still be worth something when I sell it?
It sounds like the non-ads, though much less expensive, is a lot of trouble and I should probably opt for OEM. I just dont want to risk all that money and oops I pushed a button and now all this has to be done again, etc.
Would you agree?
Amy, what is your zip code?
Maybe some one on this forum knows someone to trust with the swap, in your area.

I had reservations, at 1st, because of your very reasons.
The idea that a manufacturer put something there for a reason is usually valid, unless the product is flawed and the ADS shocks are flawed. Remember the gas tanks on the Ford Pintos? Remember the high center of gravity of the Ford Explorers, causing roll-overs? Acura's weak ADS shocks won't kill you, but Acura extended their ADS warranty (for vehicles under 100,000 miles), because of a very high % of failure. They did not redesign the new replacement ADS shocks, which they were supplying, they just installed the ones that were left on their parts warehouse shelves. Same part numbers as the blown problem units.

The things that sold me on the swap:
1. The resale value.
2007 MDX Sport with 120,000 miles and ADS shocks that don't leak is worth $7,500.
2007 MDX Base with 120,000 miles with original shocks that aren't busted is worth $7,200.

When I sell my converted MDX Sport, I'll sell it as a Base model and take the $300 loss. (I saved thousands choosing to convert). If the buyer is concerned, I'll tell them to google the ADS history of the 07 - 09 MDX Sport.

2. The new $$$$ ADS shocks will break between 35,000 and 60,000 miles according to most reports on this forum. Then you're back to spending $$$$ again.

3. Replacing shocks is not hard, maybe a 3 or 4 out of 10 in difficulty. It's just 6 or 7 nuts on each of the front shocks and 2 nuts on each of the rear shocks. Besides, I got a chance to clean dirt away from places that no one will ever see, except me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Does the comfort mode or sport mode dictate how fast a shock will wear out? I am in Canada and it snows a lot if that helps. I like the comfort ride and handling as sport is too rough and jarring during pot holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Does the comfort mode or sport mode dictate how fast a shock will wear out? I am in Canada and it snows a lot if that helps. I like the comfort ride and handling as sport is too rough and jarring during pot holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't know what causes the inner seals to rupture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,235 Posts
My question is. If you don’t see any sign of leak does that mean the ADS shocks are still good?
My ADS shocks show no sign of leak after 135k miles; however, the ride feel bouncing in comfort and hard in sport mode whenever drive on a bumpy road. Should I do the conversion now or wait until one of them busted out and start to leak?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
My question is. If you don’t see any sign of leak does that mean the ADS shocks are still good?
My ADS shocks show no sign of leak after 135k miles; however, the ride feel bouncing in comfort and hard in sport mode whenever drive on a bumpy road. Should I do the conversion now or wait until one of them busted out and start to leak?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’d switch em only if the ride is unbearable for you. Not worth the $ if it rides well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
My rear ADS shocks wore out at 140K miles. Honestly, that wouldn't be so terrible for a shock absorber if it weren't so damn expensive to replace. I'm sure the front struts will go soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
My rear ones were loud, when driving slowly over speed bumps, so I did the swap on the rears, with the resistors.
A few months later one of my fronts got clunky and I converted them.
You can replace them in pairs.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top