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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys been hearing this noise for some time, i came across alot of reports on this but mix answers on which part is causing it. I decided to pull of the driver wheel today & take a look. Control arm bushing & ball joint seem tight & no dry rott on the bushing. stabilizer link seems tight. the only thing stood out was a 3/32 space on the sway bar bushing. i took some wood shims & shimmed it, drove the vehicle & still heard the noise. I am not sure if i have to do the same for the other side but i will & get back to you guys. anyone who had this issue & know of the exact part that's the problem please let me know thanks.
 

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First usual suspects, Top Hat and Bearing in the Shock..
 

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Does the noise happen all the time, only in turns, only over bumps/dips, can hear it driving straight over smooth roads?

I had a clunking/knocking noise at low speeds with suspension travel in my MDX. It was the torn end-link boot. A few months later the noise came back exactly the same way before and it turned out to be the front magnetic strut this time. I also had the same sound on my RDX after I replaced my worn front struts with KYB struts and KYB Struts mounts. My RDX did not like the KYB Strut mounts and the front eibach springs would bump/clunk on low speed turns (like pulling out 90 degrees out of a parking spot). The noise didn't go away until I replaced my Eibach springs+KYB Strut mount with OEM parts. Miss the RDX drop; but, hated the noise more.
 

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Bad electronic struts will cause clucking noises in the front end.

Do you have a Sports version MDX?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Does the noise happen all the time, only in turns, only over bumps/dips, can hear it driving straight over smooth roads?

I had a clunking/knocking noise at low speeds with suspension travel in my MDX. It was the torn end-link boot. A few months later the noise came back exactly the same way before and it turned out to be the front magnetic strut this time. I also had the same sound on my RDX after I replaced my worn front struts with KYB struts and KYB Struts mounts. My RDX did not like the KYB Strut mounts and the front eibach springs would bump/clunk on low speed turns (like pulling out 90 degrees out of a parking spot). The noise didn't go away until I replaced my Eibach springs+KYB Strut mount with OEM parts. Miss the RDX drop; but, hated the noise more.
i hear it when i go slowly over a speed bump, its sort of like something is loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well i notice today that my shaking on the steering wheel were gone while on the highway so i suspect the wood shims solve that.

since their is a wide range of parts that can be the culprit my plan is the drive the vehicle until it starts effecting the performance of the vehicle. I know it may end up damaging other parts but i rather go this route than swapping out parts.
 

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Andrew,

If the wood shims are somehow helping on highway, why don't you replace the rubber bushing? They are not that expensive and will set that part close to factory condition. It will facilitate you to find what else is loose or worn.

my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Andrew,

If the wood shims are somehow helping on highway, why don't you replace the rubber bushing? They are not that expensive and will set that part close to factory condition. It will facilitate you to find what else is loose or worn.

my 2 cents.
ONe thing @ a time Gonz.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so i ran over a curb slowly 1 wheel @ a time so going forward on the driver wheel @ 2km no noise, reversing noise. Passenger side noise both forward & reverse. I also pulled off the passenger wheel i saw the same space on the sway bar bushing & shimmed it, still noise.

I tried to remove the stabilizer link but nut was rusted & a pain to get off, will have to heat it & remove @ a later time. Now beside the ball joint looking intact i will have to check for play. From the sequence of the noise from the curb test that i dont have it going forward of both wheels points me to the ball joint which one may be more worn than the other.

will report back.
 

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How many miles are on your MDX?
 

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From the sequence of the noise from the curb test that i dont have it going forward of both wheels points me to the ball joint which one may be more worn than the other.

will report back.
Lift up one corner at a time. Grab tire at 12oclock and 6 oclock and wiggle up and down to see if your ball joints make any noise. Grab at 9oclock and 3oclock and wiggle side to side to see if it's the tie rods. If in doubt, get a big pry bar and wedge it between the ball joint and control arm and see if there is any play while you move it.

Also see if you can check and tighten top nut on strut mount from the engine bay(under plastic windshield cowl cover) in case it got loose or bushing got worn down.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lift up one corner at a time. Grab tire at 12oclock and 6 oclock and wiggle up and down to see if your ball joints make any noise. Grab at 9oclock and 3oclock and wiggle side to side to see if it's the tie rods. If in doubt, get a big pry bar and wedge it between the ball joint and control arm and see if there is any play while you move it.

Also see if you can check and tighten top nut on strut mount from the engine bay(under plastic windshield cowl cover) in case it got loose or bushing got worn down.
Alpine ur the best guy. thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok fellas i jacked both wheels up today & tried moving the wheels for play, nothing on the up/down but their is play & noise sideways, its coming from the inner tie rod that goes to & aluminum casing. I am not sure if that noise is normal? also i did try to put a pry bar under the wheel but still nothing. I am beginning to think the strut is putting constant load on the control arm & that the reason why i am unable to get any movement. Now the knuckle rest ontop the the ball joint so therefore their is constant pressure pushing the ball joint down, now if their is play i have to pry up on the knuckle to find it but their is nothing for a pry bar to bite on where the ball joint sits on the arm so the only way would be to try on the wheel upwards but like i said the strut is always pushing down not to mention the stabilizer link & tie rod would also contribute load.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well guys it has been another day of troubleshooting & although i feel defeated i have eliminated a few other parts. so i started off by jacking the vehicle on the control arm & try prying the tire with a 2x4, no luck their. I then though that the strut was pushing down on the arm so therefore the balljoint will not move. so i jacked the vehicle under the running board & pulled of the wheel, i then use another jack & jacked right under the ball joint, now i can see the arm start pushing the strut upwards but still no movement on the ball joint boot. so i figure if the ball joint had play when the arm was down the spindle should be extended & then contracts when jacking up but it never happen. I then remove the jack under the ball joint & jacked under the rotor therefore lifting up the entire hub & knuckle but still the ball joint did not move but stayed stationary & pulled up the control arm. i then checked the strut mounting nuts they were all tight. also the noise i was hearing when moving the wheel side to side from the inner tie rod area cannot be the noise because their is no inner ball joint on that tie rod & i am able to duplicate the noise while rocking the suspension when the vehicle is park.
 

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Andrew,

Actually, the inner tie rod is a ball joint connection. They also wear out causing noises in the front end specially when you get one wheel into a bump with the wheel at a certain angle, not straight. The angle on the wheel will pull and push the tie rods when passing over the bump at low speed.

My MDX is 120K and has not developed any noises, and I have not replaced any front end suspension parts yet.
 
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