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So after missing a few opportunities to make a purchase I happened to be at the right place at the right time and found a 2006 with 129K miles and one owner.

Paid a little more than I was wanting ($5900 + tax) but it was worth it I believe.

So that leads me to a few questions:

1) The drivers seat bottom leather is in need of replacement, the interior color code shows "Type D" - I'm assuming that's ebony?
2) Something is rolling around behind the dash - noticed it on sharp turns...sounds like something in one of the vents behind the dash...any suggestions on this or what else it could possibly be? It's definitely from behind the dash on the drivers side only and only slides around during turns.
3) Transmission and VTM4 fluid - the seller said he never changed it....so its original fluid and his opinion was not to mess with something that's not broken....and that changing the fluid will cause it to slip....any thoughts on that?
4) Same story with the timing belt...hasn't been changed and it's 20K+ miles past due...I plan to tackle that myself. What size tool is needed for the crank pulley - 50MM?
5) The hands free link feature isn't working...I press the buttons on the steering wheel and no response. He said he had someone disable it..but can't remember why. I don't see a fuse for the module....where is the module and why on earth would someone disable it?

Aside from that - it has new brakes, rotors, and 2 new rear tires, 3rd row was never used (so he claims..but it looks brand new)....on the tires, he didn't spring for the fronts even though they are badly needed so I'll be doing that as well.

Thanks all!
 

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1) No Idea
2) NoIdea
3) If you don't change it soon, it can cause the car to shudder around turns.
4) Ask Habby guy, that's a 10 hour job that I can't even begin to imagine.
5) The HFL Module in the Gen 1 (-2006) is very flaky, he had it disconnected most likely because it was draining his battery.
 

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1) Also have no idea
2) Could be anything, really. A plastic clip that snapped off and fell into the AC vent? (those sliders are notorious for breaking off, you might even be missing a couple) I haven't had/heard of any common problem like that, so that's probably going to be annoying to chase down; I don't envy you.
3) There is a school of thought that says that if your transmission fluid has never been changed then you're best off leaving it alone or you might dislodge some sludge that was allowed to accumulate. Of course, there's a counter-argument that if there is sludge to be dislodged, then it's going to come loose eventually. What color is the fluid on the dipstick? Does it smell burnt? If you do decide to change it, flushing is not recommended; instead, do a "3x3" which is: drain, refill what came out (usually ~3 quarts), drive it a little to mix the old with the new, then repeat two more times; by the time you're done, you have something like 90% new fluid and it's considered a "gentler" way to change the fluid. Definitely do some more research before deciding which direction to go, however.
4) I don't think it's that big. 19mm maybe? If you're going to tackle the timing belt then you're probably going to do other maintenance work on it (for example, you'll probably want to adjust the valves soon, the exhaust valves tend to tighten up over time), so I'd recommend getting a service manual for it. Best $50 you'll ever spend.
5) Yep, those things tend to flake out and drain the battery so many people just disconnect them. It's housed in the compartment behind the cabin lights.
 

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1) Look it up on the Acura factory parts website. I have Saddle on my 2006 and went with the factory seat cover for $600. I had it quoted at a local auto upholstery for about $300 but he didn't have a good color match. I even went to several suppliers to try and find a match.

I had my TL done in an ebony by an independent for $165 and I brought the leather. The hide was on clearance for $80 for half a hide. $15 to get it perfed from the supplier.

If you go to a supplier, take your headrest for a color match. Go outside in the sunlight to confirm color.

2) Suggest buying a low cost USB camera on a wire (endoscope) you can snake into the vent. About $20 on Amazon. A very handy gadget.

3) I would do the triple drain and refill. I also added a trans cooler. I found that Honda trans fluid is slightly lower cost than Acura. You might want to call around. Some dealers might give you 15% off if you ask.

4) 2 inch hex with a hole to pass a 19mm socket. I used the Powerbuiilt - also on Amazon. I recommend 1/2" impact socket and extension. I used a 2x4 with a v notch to stablize the breaker bar end. It took a 5ft pipe to get enough leverage and it goes with a bang. You'll need it to torque too. You might want to get the kit with belt, bearings, and tensioner. Rockauto but check Amazon pricing too. If you do the water pump, I would recommend draining the radiator about a half gal and then remove the pump and catch the run off. When I did mine, I drained and still had a bunch of run off. Figure on replacing 1.5 gals.

Aside from the belt, if it wasn't done, you might want to flush your coolant at the same time since you'll need to buy 2 gals. Be sure to used distilled water if you top off. (I used Honda coolant.)

Good luck, have fun!
 

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Missed one.

5) I replaced my HFL. As mentioned, its in the overhead console. Lots of youtubes on how to open it. About $250. Personally, I don't think they're so great. Did it for the wife. An ear piece or my speaker phone is fine/preferred by me.
 

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FWIW, re the rattle, there's a cover under the drivers side that basically above your knees. If I recall correctly, it snaps in. Might have a couple 1/4 turn screws at the front. There are two light connections to unplug and then you can check if anything is loose.

A total WAG but I'm thinking a coin or something small dropped down the defroster or the AC vent.

There is also a skinny channel under the driver seat. Just mentioning it in case the origin of the sound might be playing tricks. I had a small screw "get lost" in that one - dang those left over parts.
 

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Seat bottom - I'd probably look for a parts yard part, and replace the seat. I did price new leather once, and promptly forgot about that option! ;-) FWIW, I also added some high-density foam to my front seats, and have them "sitting" as well as when they were new, and they still look nearly new (especially now that the side bolsters are "plump" again, which smooths out the wrinkles).

Yeah, there's something rolling around inside your ductwork. Good luck with that - with any luck, it'll end up migrating to someplace where it won't make as much noise, or will get stuck somewhere. Otherwise, you're just going to have to figure out the location by ear and start taking things apart.

Yes, change the tranny and VTM-4 fluids, ASAP. Both are dead easy, and will NOT hurt your tranny. That mythology started with the advent of "power flush" transmission fluid changes, which can stir up sediment and metal deposits in your transmission, allowing them to migrate to the shift solenoids or valves, leading people to conclude that the new fluid killed their tranny. Use Honda fluids for both, and I'd recommend doing at least a couple drain-and-refills on the transmission (you get only about 3 quarts out of an 8 quart capacity each time).

The tools you WILL need for getting that crank bolt out are the 50mm special crank tool - you can get one of those for chump change from (for exampl) Amazon (not necessarily saying thivs is the best option, but it's hard to imagine it won't get the job done)...
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-Crankshaft-Pulley-Wrench-Holder/dp/B01F333OHY

You'll need a couple hefty breaker bars or really stout ratchets - one for the crank tool, and one for the long-head 19mm crank bolt. I hooked a 1/2" ratchet attached to the crank tool over my right drive axle, with a large vicegrip wrench clamped on the axle to keep it from moving. If you have the car up on high enough ramps / jackstands (or a lift!) you have other options. I ended up using a small floor jack to turn the breaker bar to break loose the axle bolt. It was very noticeably lifting the engine by the time the bolt came loose. Other than that, it's really not a difficult job - just make sure and get a "good kit" (I went with Aisan parts, which seem to have a really good reputation). Replace the water pump, the radiator hoses, and the serpentine belt while you're at it (since those jobs won't require much extra work while you're doing the timing belt). There are some good youtube videos on the process - I really like the process of using zip ties to hold the belt in place on the pulleys while you're routing it - that can save a whole lot of time and trouble.
 

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Holy cow! I do a light transmission fluid change every year.

Have someone look at the connection of the transmisson cooler to the radiator. I relalced my radiator pro-actively at around your mileage.
 
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