Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just got a new MDx yesterday and i was wonderong if Prolong and other additives to the car actully work? I am quite skeptical about the the Prolong and that stuzz Z max
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,732 Posts
If you feel the need for an oil additive, just use a proven synthetic oil like Mobil 1. But wait until you get at least 3 or 4 thousand miles, don't drain the Acura break-in oil prematurely. Don't add anything else.

A bottle of Techron in the gas tank the same time you change your oil, is a good thing to do also. That's my take on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
619 Posts
I was wondering the same. Slick 50 or Prolong or Z max? My logic is this- theoretically, these teflon(?) like additives reduce wear and tear on initial startup. even a good synthetic cannot claim that. I was thinking it would help if i kept the 'X for 125k+ miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
MDXLuvr said:
I was wondering the same. Slick 50 or Prolong or Z max? My logic is this- theoretically, these teflon(?) like additives reduce wear and tear on initial startup. even a good synthetic cannot claim that. I was thinking it would help if i kept the 'X for 125k+ miles.
Based on my experience with Honda products. the engines are just getting broken in at 125,00 miles--without any of the miracle additives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,809 Posts
ace3 said:
I just got a new MDx yesterday and i was wonderong if Prolong and other additives to the car actully work? I am quite skeptical about the the Prolong and that stuzz Z max
I would definetly not use any additives unless the service manager said it was ok. This is a high tech engine not the basic cylinder and piston engine of the 70's and 80's. DON'T JUMP TO ADD.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,711 Posts
My POS GM 3.3L V6

is running strong at 128K!!

No additives, some 'extended' oil change intervals, NO babying of any kind. And I'm not the exception. I'd say less than 10% of engines "not on the road" were failed due to to oil related issues.

Now COOLING is probably the TOP issue, then electronics including ignition, followed by fuel delivery (injectors cost ALOT to replace & and a good running carb is a really rare thing) and way down at the bottom of the list is oiling. IN FACT, I'd bet it is more common to get an engine that has casting/boring errors than one that oil additives could help...

SAVE YOUR MONEY!

Any Honda motor that doesn't see the high side 150K "died too young":1:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,769 Posts
Being aluminum everything, I suspect the single most deadly item would be to let it overheat [I am NOT a mechanic, so please don't hesitate to correct].

I would invest my maintenance money in the cooling system. I am wondering whether to add the trailer kit coolers even though I have no plans to add a hitch!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,809 Posts
srpbep said:
Being aluminum everything, I suspect the single most deadly item would be to let it overheat [I am NOT a mechanic, so please don't hesitate to correct].

I would invest my maintenance money in the cooling system. I am wondering whether to add the trailer kit coolers even though I have no plans to add a hitch!!
The trailer kit will only cool the transmission fluid and the power steering fluid, which isn't a bad idea. I'm sure it will extend the transmission life and the power sterring rack. This will not keep the engine itself cooler. In the older cars we used to replace the thermostate to reduce the running temperature. I'm not sure how running at a cooler temperature will affect the running of the engine. You have to remember that the computer monitors all running features of the engine. It may cause the engine not to run properly because the computer will try yo correct the lower engine temperature. I would personally make sure the antifreeze fluid has the proper level and be sure to keep it clear with regular maintenance and replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,732 Posts
paul123 said:


This will not keep the engine itself cooler.
In actuality the engine coolant temp is affected to a degree (no pun intended) by the transmission temperature since it also uses the tranny cooler at the bottom the radiator to draw away heat.
The optional Acura transmisson cooler is in series with the radiator transmisson cooler it does not bypass it. But if the transmission temp. is not well controlled, it could also raise the engine temperature to a point.
To me this is a good reason to have the transmission flushed every 30K to keep all these passages as clean as possible, as well as flushing the engine coolant system. It can't hurt to flush the power steering fluid too, and why not the unrelated but important brake fluid!
Make a flushing service appointment!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,809 Posts
DaleB said:


In actuality the engine coolant temp is affected to a degree (no pun intended) by the transmission temperature since it also uses the tranny cooler at the bottom the radiator to draw away heat.
The optional Acura transmisson cooler is in series with the radiator transmisson cooler it does not bypass it. But if the transmission temp. is not well controlled, it could also raise the engine temperature to a point.
To me this is a good reason to have the transmission flushed every 30K to keep all these passages as clean as possible, as well as flushing the engine coolant system. It can't hurt to flush the power steering fluid too, and why not the unrelated but important brake fluid!
Make a flushing service appointment!!
To my knowledge of transmission cooler, the transmission fluid runs thru the cooler, not antifreeze. I do understand there is a small trans cooler built into the radiator, that only cools the trans fluid. I guess you are referring to the point if the trans cooler in the radiator is cooler than it wouldn't heat the antifreeze up to a higher level. Overall I don't believe this will make the engine run cooler. My knowlege the only way to keep engine temperature down would be the replacement of thermostate to a lower running temperature or replacing the radiator with a high performance increased core radiator which would have more cooling vents and larger ports internally. But like I said if you reduce temp to much it may affect the computer which in turn will affect the way the engine runs. I wonder if they will make a performance chip which would allow the engine to run at a lower temperature.

Most foreign cars already run cool. It's usually the american cars that run hotter, which shorten the life of the engine. I forgot also people put in high performance fans which blow more air over the radiator which also would run the engine cooler. My 2 cents.

Overall I think the engine runs cool from the factory and wouldn't modify at all. I'm thinking about the trans cooler to increase the tranny life, but I bought the extended warranty already which would cover it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,474 Posts
DaleB said:
..... just use a proven synetic oil like Mobil 1. But wait until you get at least 3 or 4 thousand miles.....
The service manager at the dealer where I bought my X advised me to wait until 15000 miles before using synthetic oil. Has anyone else been given this advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,732 Posts
BaldEagle said:


The service manager at the dealer where I bought my X advised me to wait until 15000 miles before using synthetic oil. Has anyone else been given this advice?
There are high performance vehicles that come from the factory with Mobil 1 in the crankcase. I am sure the MDX engine is broken in sufficiently by 3 or 4K miles to use synthetic. It will be by the time I have that much mileage on it!:2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,732 Posts
paul123 said:


I guess you are referring to the point if the trans cooler in the radiator is cooler than it wouldn't heat the antifreeze up to a higher level. Overall I don't believe this will make the engine run cooler.

Actually, just the opposite. Remember the transmission is using part of the radiator for cooling, if the transmission runs too hot it will also raise the overall temperature of the engine coolant as that coolant is also asorbing more transmission heat now. Probably not a lot but more heat is more heat.
That's why HD trasmission coolers can bypass the radiator which is even better.
But for the way most of us use our MDXs it's not really necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,809 Posts
DaleB said:



Actually, just the opposite. Remember the transmission is using part of the radiator for cooling, if the transmission runs too hot it will also raise the overall temperature of the engine coolant as that coolant is also asorbing more transmission heat now. Probably not a lot but more heat is more heat.
That's why HD trasmission coolers can bypass the radiator which is even better.
But for the way most of us use our MDXs it's not really necessary.
I see your point I actually stated it backwards, meaning if tranny cooler runs hotter it can heat the radiator up hotter in turn raising the antifreeze temperature. Like you said the tranny cooler should be in a different location not inside the radiator. I personally think the MDX runs pretty cool and would go for any mod's to reduce temperature. I would be to nervious of affecting the computer. The fans on the MDX do well in traffic and high temp days in keeping the engine cool. The american car companies have alot to learn from the foreign cars on how to keep the temps down. In my opinion, the american cars could keep the temps down but they don't want to because they want you to purchase a new car every 2 or 3 years, where foreign cars last much longer due to the cooler running engines.

I don't think the trans cooler will reduce engine temperature by much. I would only purchase to reduce the trans temperature with the hope of extending the transmission life. If I didn't purchase the extended warranty I would recommend the trans cooler to people, especially if you are a hard driver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,732 Posts
I agree, the real purpose of the transmission cooler is for the transmission for sure. The transmission would have to be very hot to start having an effect on the engine. It's a good design, and staying within the towing limits the vehicle is designed for along with good maintenance, should provide many trouble-free miles. One advantage amercian vehicles have, is that options like coolers, towing equip. and high output electrical systems are much less expensive on new vehicles. So much so, it would be crazy not to opt for them.
And as you say, they need them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,711 Posts
Few points...

I'm replying to a few topics from above (in no particular order):

Vehicles used to have lots of natural rubber, cork & oil impregnated seals. They reallly don't anymore. Most "rubber" is syntheticly derived & treated for extreme sevrice. That is the biggest reason "in olden times" folks recommnded against synthetic oil - it would react differently with the oil sealing methods. Not really a concern anymore. Honda/Acura does have a specail additive packagein theri break-in oil & assembly lubes. The idea is the interval to the first oil change will give the "special" oil a chance to do its magic. The only drawback to synthetic oil is the cost, but even that does fluctutate.

Cooling system treatments. Bad idea. As I said before, the most critaical sytem for engine health is cooling. I am familar with Red line's water wetter. It is a 'surfactant' that reduces the surface tension of water and slightly laters its heat transfer properties. It is OK to use in motor sports/racing when the engine has been built with nothing but water in the cooling system or when the cooling system has been completely purged of any glycol or derivates. It is A BAD IDEA to use in a streeet driven vehicle. It provides NO freeze protection. It has lowers the boiling point of the cooling system. It can coagulate any glycol or glycol derivatioves. Keep your coolant system clean on full of distilled water and the recommend Honda coolant.

Heat transfer via tranny cooler. Heat ALWAYS flows from hotter to cooler. The small "radiator inside your radiator" that is transfering heat from the tranny fluid to the coolant only works because the tranny fluid is hotter than the water in the radiator. The main radiator only works because its cooler than the engine coolant. Heat won't go from the tranny into the engine. All kinds of non-equilibrium thermodynamic heat transfer functions would be violated. Adding an auxilary cooler inline with the tranny cooler can only make the tranny cooler and make the main radiatoror cool things a bit more quickly, not make the engine run cooler. The operating temperature of the engine is pretty much dictated by the thermostat, engine control computer and the load on the engine...

Finally, flushing. Somewhat controversial. The idea is sound -- get 'bad stuff out of system'. THe execution is ALWAYS suspect, here's why -- all the fluid systmes in a vehicle are essentially 'closed'. Stuff is not suppoded get into or out of them. Even oil is essentially not consumed in a tight engine. The devices used for flushing are HIGHLY LIKELY to introduce MORE containments into the systems than ANY OTHER means of entry, short of catastrophic system failure. THe devices ALSO recycle the flushant -- highly suspect that the device's filters are ANY BETTER than the filters the MANUFACTURER of your vehicel HAS WARRANTIED... This is not a "it can't hurt" kind of situation for NEW cars -- it can (and MIGHT) hurt, so I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND IT. What about old, out of warranty cars? Well here I see two situations a) old, well maintained car with lots of miles -- motto "If it ain't broke don't fix it" applies b) old UNKNOWN or neglated cars -- MIGHT be helpful IF you think the lack of maintence is WORSE than any other car that was attached to flushing device before -- operating principle would be "this is a really nasty vehicle with nasty crud that is better off out than in". Well, why do SO MANY DEALER GARAGES have these 'flush it specials". <h1>Marketing!</h1> Think about it, how many folks who drag their old POS beater into "dirty Luke & Larry Lots o' Luck Cheap Ol' Service Station & Saloon" are going to pony up extra cash for a "flushing" ESPECIALLY COMPARED to "pristine new car service center" customers who routinely fork over HUNDREDS of dollar for scheduled maintence???? OH MY! To borrow a phrase from some enemies of Malcom X " GET YOUR HAND OFF MY WALLET"!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,732 Posts
Thanks for the further clarification. I never suggested we could make the engine run cooler by lowering the temperature of the transmission.
What I was suggesting is that if the engine was under more load for whatever reason, the radiator coolant could reach critical temperature sooner with the additional heat load of a hot transmission. And that could well demonstrate laws of thermodynamics.
On the question of flushes, from my experience no cleaner is used as part of the flushing process. I know cleaners are used for engine flushes which I would always deter anyone from doing if they change their oil on a regular basis.
I watched a transmission shop flush one one of mine on a older car, because I wanted to use synthetic.
It was a simple process handled at the transmission coolant lines.
Yes, the mechanic has to be sure all fittings and connections are very clean before he starts as well as any fluid containers. The modern systems are self contained so even less contamination should be introduced, but again this is dependent on the integrity and training of the technician.. So I guess there is a big trust factor there. There is filter in the MDX transmission by the way, but it looks like it's only changed out during a transmission repair, not routinely.
It's an in-line filter.
There is a local independent Honda Acura shop I would trust to flush the tranny and power steering. I have always been an advocate of such maintenance, if it's performed with care and by knowlegeable technicians. I think it has definite benefits over the standard Acura drain procedue.
Just doing the standard Acura change at every or every other oil change is another way to go, if you want to keep the freshest fluid in the transmission. I thought that was a very smart way to handle it. You wll have virtually changed it completely about 2 or 3 times before you reach 100K. That is a good alternative with less inherent risk.
Marketing, yes! Well, you have to separate the wheat from the chaff, some services can be very beneficial if you understand what they do, and how it will done by service facility you select. Speaking of 'marketing', Redline does say their wetter is fully compatible with engine coolant. The greatest benefit is with pure water of course, but in any case, I will defer to your experience and avoid it. Honda seems very guarded and maybe rightly so, on mixing any other solutions with their supplied fluids in any case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
619 Posts
bump

You guys-DaleB, Paul123, and renov8r have an interesting discussion going on, but i still didn't get my answer.

question:
1) Should i add prolong to my engine with next oil change?
2) Should i add prolong tranny treatment at 30k miles or should i flush the tranny and refill with synthetic?
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top