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Discussion Starter #1
Can you tell if there is any difference of engine ticking sound between video #1 & #2? One of the videos I installed new NGK 5787 spark plugs.

Video #1:

Video #2:


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That purge valve solenoid is ticking for sure.
 

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Well the other sound I hear is reminiscent of that of a Failing Timing Belt Tensioner...
When was the last time you had a T-Belt Job?

It starts like a faint sound then evolves into a more serious noise:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well the other sound I hear is reminiscent of that of a Failing Timing Belt Tensioner...

When was the last time you had a T-Belt Job?



It starts like a faint sound then evolves into a more serious noise:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yi5BbsTT9v0


The car is currently at 79,000 miles and still have the original Timing Belt.


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The T-Belt job is definitely due if its running the OG Setup.
It is done every 7 years or 105K which ever comes first
(Remember than a 2011 model was sold in 2010 so its now 7 years old).

The 105K requires:
Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
Timing Belt Idler Pulley
Timing Belt Hydraulic Tensioner
Water Pump
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The T-Belt job is definitely due if its running the OG Setup.

It is done every 7 years or 105K which ever comes first

(Remember than a 2011 model was sold in 2010 so its now 7 years old).



The 105K requires:

Timing Belt

Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley

Timing Belt Idler Pulley

Timing Belt Hydraulic Tensioner

Water Pump


Thanks. Have you try to do DIY? I am watching on how to do this.


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I´ve done both my TL-S and my MDX timing belt jobs, The MDX is definitely easier.
 

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Timing Belt Jobs are easily the hardest DIYs you can do, Not only in the tools needed but also in the important task of not screwing it up... If you screw up a T-Belt job is 100% Engine Destruction.

If you are a casual DIYer I strongly advise you to pay someone to do this job... Preferably someone who will give you warranty on the labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Timing Belt Jobs are easily the hardest DIYs you can do, Not only in the tools needed but also in the important task of not screwing it up... If you screw up a T-Belt job is 100% Engine Destruction.

If you are a casual DIYer I strongly advise you to pay someone to do this job... Preferably someone who will give you warranty on the labor.


Probably just follow the service manual and do a general T-Belt inspection.


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T-Belt inspection wont work as this sound is caused by the Hydraulic Tensioner (IF IT IS)..
The T-Belt inspection only requires to remove the inspection cover which is the one on the front head so you can look how the Belt itself is doing seeking for obvious cracks and wear.

In order to diagnose the Hydro Tensioner you must use a service stethoscope directly on top of the tensioner. IN ANY CASE... You should not replace the tensioner only, That car is due for the entire 105k.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
T-Belt inspection wont work as this sound is caused by the Hydraulic Tensioner (IF IT IS)..

The T-Belt inspection only requires to remove the inspection cover which is the one on the front head so you can look how the Belt itself is doing seeking for obvious cracks and wear.



In order to diagnose the Hydro Tensioner you must use a service stethoscope directly on top of the tensioner. IN ANY CASE... You should not replace the tensioner only, That car is due for the entire 105k.


I know it is due for a t-belt replacement but want to inspect the physical of belt for wear and tear and feel the belt itself for any loss in tension. I think that is the best I can do for myself.


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It will be tight, as the Tension side is on the rear where the tensioner sits.
 

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Valve Adjustment is way easier... A very quick diy steps for example:
1.- Remove the Intake Tube.
2.- Remove the Throttle Body (Optionally remove it with the entire manifold and flip it)
3.- Remove the Intake Manifold
4.- Remove spark plugs so you can turn the crankshaft more easily.
5.- Remove valve covers
6.- Adjust valves
7.- Replace everything.
8.- DONE.

Timing Belt Job:
1.- Remove front wheel
2.- Remove accessory belt
3.- Remove crank bolt and crank pulley
4.- Remove accessory belt tensioner
5.- Remove spark plugs
6.- Remove P/S Pump (This makes it so much easier, you can get away by not removing it but it will be more difficult) and Remove the Side Engine Mount bracket.
7.- Remove timing belt covers and set the timing to TDC using the crank bolt only to turn the crankshaft and pulleys, Mark the pulleys TDCs with a white marker to keep timing. Mark the crankshaft TDC also with white marker.
8.- Remove timing belt by either doing it with the battery strap (Optionally cut the belt or remove the hydro tensioner)
9.- Remove Idler
10.- Remove Hydro Tensioner
11.- Remove tensioner pulley
12.- Remove water pump
13.- Replace water pump, hydro tensioner and idler
14.- Start to align the timing belt from the crankshaft to the front pulley then lastly the rear pulley keeping tension at all times from the crankshaft > idler > pulley > water pump > rear pulley.
15.- Install the tensioner pulley between the belt slack and the hydro tensioner.
16.- Double-Triple-Quadra check your timings...
17.- Release the granade pin on the hydro tensioner.
18.- REPLACE EVERYTHING.
19.- Purge the radiator and P/S Pump.
20.- DONE.
 

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As you can see even with my QUICKEST written DIY the Timing Belt Job is a whole different animal. If I were to dig into very specific details the written DIY would be massive.
 
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