Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 2011 MDX Adv/Ent is at 77,300 miles so I decided to replace the spark plugs this past Sunday. I started on the front cylinders, started from the passenger side towards the driver side. The same procedure was done on the rear cylinders. The numbers on the picture designated like so. The front went well, but with a slight hiccup. I couldn't pull the spark plug socket after installed a new spark plug. Luckily, I have duct tape laying around. I rubbed the sticky portion on the adapter extension, and I was able to pull the spark plug socket out. Now, for the rear, the first spark plug I pulled made my heart sank. The threads on the spark plug was coated with engine oil. The remaining two spark plugs were also coated with engine oil on the threads. This explained my oil consumption problem. This looks to be serious problem. The first question is how the hell the engine oil gets into the combustion chamber? If the cylinder gasket seal is weaken, the coil packs would have been soaked with engine oil, but all of the coil packs are bone dried. I did some googling, some said the intake ingests to much oil. Any ideas?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
This means only 1 thing..
Your spark plug tubes seals need replacement, that's it.

When oil gets into the tube the coil doesn't need to be soaked in oil.. A couple of drops from time to time will get into the threads eventually, Don't worry! If Oil was getting from the combustion chamber the TIPs would be soaked in it and from the pictures your combustion chamber seems healthy.

You need to replace the park Plug tube O-Ring Gasket so you will need to open the valve covers.

Valve Cover Gasket
Front: 12341-R70-A00
Rear: 12351-R70-A00

Spark Plug Tube Gasket x6: 12342-RYE-004
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Skirmich, if that's the case, I'm relieved. Getting to the valve covers has to go through the intake manifold. It's a lot of process involved. I've never done it. I would need a step-by-step guide to do it, or wing it :). I wonder how much the dealer would charge to replace these seals...2-3 hrs @ $125 per plus parts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Does your engine really look really filthy and wet? I mean if you're going through 3/4 qt of oil in 1500 miles and it was only the valve covers, I would imagine it would look very filthy down there. Either way, good luck and hope that's all it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Alpine003, the engine is clean visually. A couple head gasket bolts show sign of leak, but not profusely wet, and oil is not running off of it. The other area is the drain/fill port of the oil pan that I posted in the other thread. I don't know where that 3/4 quart oil go in 1500 miles. The exhaust pipe tip is not excessive dark, and there is no white or blue smoke in the morning. Overall, the engine is super dead quiet and runs like new. Maybe it is due to the new Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil. This oil is about 10.5 noack. The original version was about 6, and the car consumed less oil back then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
Skirmich, if that's the case, I'm relieved. Getting to the valve covers has to go through the intake manifold. It's a lot of process involved. I've never done it. I would need a step-by-step guide to do it, or wing it :). I wonder how much the dealer would charge to replace these seals...2-3 hrs @ $125 per plus parts?
Sincerely the work sounds much harder than what it is.. You need to remove the Air Box cover, A bunch of connectors, Intake Manifold cover and remove the Manifold and then you get access to the Valve Covers.. I strongly suggest you adjust valves while you are in there as you are doing 80% of the work already by removing the intake manifold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,014 Posts
also it is a good time to clean egr stuff. there are some youtube videos on cleaning egr, which can help you a lot to get to valve cover. adjusting valve clearance aside, this is not hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,014 Posts
if as you said your engine is dead quiet, you do not need to adjust valve clearance as of now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
^ The engine must make noise since there is a gap between the valve and the rocker arm.
A dead quiet engine could mean no gap = Tight Valves which are way more dangerous than loose valves as they could burn the head.

When I did my TL-S @ 190K the Exhaust Valves had absolutely no gap but the Intake Valves where a lil bit loose.


190K on this valve train:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Wow , what a clean engine! 190k and not a drop of crud.

What's your secret oil and maintenance schedule?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Maybe can attempt to do the work myself minus the valve adjustment, of course. I think my car's valve doesn't need adjustment yet. The engine doesn't produce any loud clattering as far as I can tell. I maybe overstated about my car being super dead silent. The car idles smooth.

What is the torque specs for the 10mm and 12mm? What's the tighten pattern? Perhaps, I can suck up and buy the service manual.

By the way, what valve feel gauge do you use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,014 Posts
Where was a post about downloading electronic version of the service manual. if you search around and are lucky, you might still be able to find it. Eric the Car Guy has some videos at youtube on how to do valve adjustment. it does not look very difficult, but that does take some skills and feelings. if your car is doing okay as it should be at such an early stage, don't mess with it. Chances are good that you might be asking for troubles if you decide to attempt it. I guess craftsman feeler gauges should be enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
Wow , what a clean engine! 190k and not a drop of crud.

What's your secret oil and maintenance schedule?
Oil is Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 since around 60-70K to date, Oil changes every 10-15K depending on how much I do that year (Year round changes) and 2 oil filters (6 Months tops).

Car now has 216K.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
Maybe can attempt to do the work myself minus the valve adjustment, of course. I think my car's valve doesn't need adjustment yet. The engine doesn't produce any loud clattering as far as I can tell. I maybe overstated about my car being super dead silent. The car idles smooth.

What is the torque specs for the 10mm and 12mm? What's the tighten pattern? Perhaps, I can suck up and buy the service manual.

By the way, what valve feel gauge do you use?


I rarely use torque specs for manifold but they are hand tight nothing extraordinary. I believe around 10-20lbs is enough.

Feeler Gauges are Autozone generic gauges (Powerbuilt?) but I measure them with my Mitutoyo Caliper and they were dead on spec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I contacted Acura HQ to complain about oil being on the spark plug thread for a 5.5 years old engine with 77,300 miles. I asked if they consider offer me a "Goodwill" warranty coverage since the car is only 5 and half years old and only 7300 miles past the 5yrs/70000 powertrain warranty. They said they consider "Goodwill" warranty coverage on individual basis. They asked me to take the car to the Acura dealer to have it inspected and forward to them the results so they can evaluate and to help make consideration. So, I dropped by an Acura dealer. The service rep asked why did I need engine inspection? I explained that I replaced the spark plugs and I noticed engine oil on the thread of the three spark plugs near the firewall. I also told him that I've contacted Acura to see if they considered a "Goodwill" since my car is barely over the warranty period. He asked if my car burns any oil, and I said, about 1 quart in 1500 miles. He then said Acura considered it normal and fell within specs. I said it wasn't doing this before, and the oil in the spark plug thread? He explained that they will be some oil get past the piston since piston needs lubrication. He also said since I'm doing my own maintenance I would need all the receipts -- &^%*$. I kept on insisting, he said keep driving the car, and don't add any oil until the next change interval. Bring the car back at next change interval, and we will see how much oil is consumed; but if the oil indicator light is on...bring it in. I'm not sure what's the point as I told him I changed the oil the weekend before Memorial Day...it's just been 6 weeks and 1500 miles, and I've lost a 1 quart. In my opinion, he seemed like he presented himself that he cared, but didn't want anything to do with it. It's not like they do the inspection for free or anything.


I'm probably just going to forget the whole dealer/Acura HQ thing, just open the valve cover and replace the gaskets. If it doesn't fix, I'll consider get rid of the car...too bad though I love it very much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
I'm probably just going to forget the whole dealer/Acura HQ thing, just open the valve cover and replace the gaskets. If it doesn't fix, I'll consider get rid of the car...too bad though I love it very much.
Yeah that sucks and it really seems like Acura HQ is leaving it up to the dealers as far as judgement call.

1qt in 1500 miles is a LOT for Acura/Honda inline motors IMO. Something definitely isn't healthy.

FWIW, a lot of dealers will not proactively replace something if it's still running. They are only likely to replace something after it has broke. Unfortunately they can still argue unknown history from previous owner and lack of maintenance or neglect as reasons for not pulling through on something like this unless it had all service done by a particular dealer since day 1 with documentation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I think my car consumes more oil now is probably because the pistons are way too clean from using the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum -- that's one of their claim. One innovation in new engine used today is Low Tension Piston Rings. This design offers better fuel efficiency, better performance, and reduces emission, but the negative side effect of it is the loss of cylinder compression -- allowing low viscosity oil to blow by into the combustion chambers. The result is oil consumption. As in my car, the un-burn oil made its way into the spark plug threads -- my theory. I'm losing a quart/1000-1500 miles just like Honda/Acura's specification. So this leads to "very clean pistons" or "mechanical problems"? For one thing, I won't open up the head cover gasket until I see a pool of oil in the spark plug well.

Some good reads....

NY Times Article

MIT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Try a different oil and see what happens. Maybe a 10w-30 weight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Try a different oil and see what happens. Maybe a 10w-30 weight.

I think there is something wrong with Honda's 3.7 engine, and Honda doesn't admit it. Honda/Acura recommended all of their models from 2000 - 2017 to use 0w-20 oil viscosity except the turbo RDX and the 3.7 engines. Maybe the 5w-20 was the wrong grade for the 3.7 engines, and if so, Honda/Acura can't change to higher grade because that will violate the EPA rules.


I will try the Quaker State UD since their oils are high on Flash Point and Viscosity Index. I will test 0w20, 5w-20, and 5w-30 for 1000 miles each. If there is no change at 1000 miles mark, I'll keep it until I notice an oil level drops. I rule out the 10w30 because it may not be good for New England Winter.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top