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Discussion Starter #1
The end tie rod is making this sound when I twisted or rotated by hand. Is this normal?




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That sound can come from the outer tie rod metal body hitting the tie rod shaft.
Does the tie rod have any play on it? cause otherwise that movement is not going to happen when driving the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Skirmich, no free play. No movement pushing in, and no
movement from side to side. The metal to metal banging sound is from the outer joint of the outer end rod. I heard the clunking sound when driving over tiny rough bumps. So you said this may not be the problem? If someone can try to check out with their car if it makes that same sound that would be helpful.


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What I see, if the links are rotated by hand that easily as seen on the video, your outer tie rods are not tight anymore. Normally, new or tight tie rods are difficult to rotate by hand. When I do maintenance on my cars, I have to use a wrench to align the tie rods to be able to install the tool to remove them.


Have you replaced the outer tie rods recently?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What I see, if the links are rotated by hand that easily as seen on the video, your outer tie rods are not tight anymore. Normally, new or tight tie rods are difficult to rotate by hand. When I do maintenance on my cars, I have to use a wrench to align the tie rods to be able to install the tool to remove them.


Have you replaced the outer tie rods recently?


Thanks. It’s still on the original OEM tie rods with 105,000 miles. Should I replace both the inner and outer at the same time with OEM part.

NOTE: The left and right turn feel rock solid.

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Thanks. It’s still on the original OEM tie rods with 105,000 miles. Should I replace both the inner and outer at the same time with OEM part.

NOTE: The left and right turn feel rock solid.

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That is a tricky question to answer. My X has over 136K miles and it is still on ALL original steering components. No sounds or lose steering yet. Rods still feel somewhat tight at hand rotation, not tight as new but not lose as yours as shown in your videos. Mine are in between. Because of my budget management, I already bought the inner and outer tie rods months ago (All original parts). So, I have them ready for whenever I feel it is time for me to replace them to maintain my X at top condition. The X is my wife's car and I want to keep her feeling driving a safe ride.


How to judge replacement? I have seen some force tests for outer tie rods using a calibrated spring. If the joint does not offer enough resistance to the pull of the spring-tool, it is time to replace them. If there is resistance, the spring will tell you the force needed to move the joint. I remember seeing this test on my Nissan's service manual. I have not seen our service manual on the procedure to judge for tie rod replacement. In summary, you don't have to wait until the joints have a lot of play and the car is swerving on its own to replace them.


I hope my experience helps you make your decision.
 

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From how easily you rotate the tie rods by hand it's clear the ball joints don't hold it anymore and probably need to be replaced. Very easy DIY. If, however, the boots are ok (which is unbelievable for a 105K miles!!!), I would probably leave them on for a bit.
 

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I second changing the tie rod ends. If they have that much play, with the suspension movements, it is just a matter of time before the boot rips and you start to hear some squeaks. It is a DIY, however you need a ball joint splitter. When I did mine last week, I used a ball-joint splitter/separator that I got from Amazon. For good measure, get the vehicle aligned once you do that.

From how easily you rotate the tie rods by hand it's clear the ball joints don't hold it anymore and probably need to be replaced. Very easy DIY. If, however, the boots are ok (which is unbelievable for a 105K miles!!!), I would probably leave them on for a bit.
Though I do not drive an MDX, its Honda brother is what I drive. My Ridgeline has 220K miles on it and just about a month ago the DR side ripped and had both the DR & Pass side replaced last weekend. They are both original from 2010. I average around 27K miles a year and I am in NJ.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The outer end of the outer tie rod call a ball joint? Can you loosen it by hammer it down from the top after removing the nut and cotton pin?


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The outer end of the outer tie rod call a ball joint? Can you loosen it by hammer it down from the top after removing the nut and cotton pin?


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The type of joint is a ball joint. It is referred to in many names, but the joint is similar to a human shoulder and hip joint..... ball & socket.

The knuckle is too large that a hammer cannot dislocate it from the steering knuckle/upright/spindle. Besides, you NEVER want to hit the joint where the nut threads in (which is the stud). Also to note is that, unlike passenger cars, these SUVs have such a high load on their steering and suspension components that when I was removing mine last weekend, the tie-rod sprang out with such force, that I was glad I did not have any bodily parts close by.
 

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The outer end of the outer tie rod call a ball joint? Can you loosen it by hammer it down from the top after removing the nut and cotton pin?


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You could, but I do not recommend that procedure to remove them. I used to do it like that until I got my lesson. The thread of the joint collapsed due to the holes of the cotton pin causing the thread to increase in diameter. When the joint got lose, the thread did not pass through the hole. So, I had to cut the joint at the thread to remove it. That was unnecessary lost and unproductive time for me. From that time, I use a ball joint separator like the one below. When I replaced the main engine seal of my X, I used the Honda tool to separate the ball joints at the knuckle. That heavy duty tool was worth every penny. I got the joints removed with no damage in less than one minute. Cost of the Honda tool over US$200.00 (not the one shown below)


 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got it thank! Other recommended that both the inner and outer tie rod should be replaced at the same time. I don’t think I will have any problem removing the outer tie rods based on the information I got here ; however I am not sure how hard is to remove the inner tie rod and how to tie wrap back the rubber boot with the metal tie wrap. Can you use a regular plastic tie wrap or a metal wrap that come with a screw?


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Got it thank! Other recommended that both the inner and outer tie rod should be replaced at the same time. I don’t think I will have any problem removing the outer tie rods based on the information I got here ; however I am not sure how hard is to remove the inner tie rod and how to tie wrap back the rubber boot with the metal tie wrap. Can you use a regular plastic tie wrap or a metal wrap that come with a screw?


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Once you remove the joint of the outer tie rod, you can check how lose the inner tie rod is. In other cars, I have seen the inner tie rods lasting longer than outer tie rods. To test them, lift the tie rod to max position. If the link comes down on its own weight, they are already too lose. I would replace them. As far as the rubber boot, the outer clamp can be slide out with pliers. You can purchase the inner clamp from Acura, they are not expensive. Also, check the condition of the rubber boot. It should be with no punctures that allow dust or water to go in. Otherwise, replace them.
 

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Can you loosen it by hammer it down from the top after removing the nut and cotton pin?
Yes, you can, although it's not recommended. What I did was leaving the nut aligning it with the top of the thread and hammering it down with a rubber mallet.

[ame]https://youtu.be/tkN1zY9VPiE?t=383[/ame]
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, you can, although it's not recommended. What I did was leaving the nut aligning it with the top of the thread and hammering it down with a rubber mallet.

https://youtu.be/tkN1zY9VPiE?t=383


AcuraAddicted, that is what I need! Great video! Do you have a video for replacing the inner tie rod as well? Just in case my inner tie rod is loose too.


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Discussion Starter #17
Once you remove the joint of the outer tie rod, you can check how lose the inner tie rod is. In other cars, I have seen the inner tie rods lasting longer than outer tie rods. To test them, lift the tie rod to max position. If the link comes down on its own weight, they are already too lose. I would replace them. As far as the rubber boot, the outer clamp can be slide out with pliers. You can purchase the inner clamp from Acura, they are not expensive. Also, check the condition of the rubber boot. It should be with no punctures that allow dust or water to go in. Otherwise, replace them.


Ok. Than you sir!!


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Discussion Starter #19
I checked the OEM end tie-rod and it is $36 each from oemacuraparts.com while MOOG is $20 each from rockauto. Anyone know MOOG end tie-rod is as good as the OEM?


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Discussion Starter #20
The more I do research on aftermarket end-tie rod I get more confusion: greaseless vs grease. Based on a quick search on acurazine forum the greaseable type doesn’t last that long. Some recommend Raybestos professional grade. I think MOOG is greaseable type.


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