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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an oil leak coming around the edges of the pan, so I am going to take care of it by dropping the oil pan to reseal it.

I would appreciate any tips if you have done it before. Please help!

I just jacked up the front of the car and took a look-see underneath. It appears all we need to do is to remove the front part of the exhaust (before the cat) and the stiffener plate, which ties together the left-right parts of the sub-frame. It looks like there is enough clearance to remove the oil pan without removing the sub-frame. If worse comes to worst, we may have to loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine a little to gain some clearance, but the sub-frame can stay.

I will take pictures and post them as I go along. Hopefully that would help the next guy who has to go through this ordeal.
 

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I have an oil leak coming around the edges of the pan, so I am going to take care of it by dropping the oil pan to reseal it.

I would appreciate any tips if you have done it before. Please help!

I just jacked up the front of the car and took a look-see underneath. It appears all we need to do is to remove the front part of the exhaust (before the cat) and the stiffener plate, which ties together the left-right parts of the sub-frame. It looks like there is enough clearance to remove the oil pan without removing the sub-frame. If worse comes to worst, we may have to loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine a little to gain some clearance, but the sub-frame can stay.

I will take pictures and post them as I go along. Hopefully that would help the next guy who has to go through this ordeal.

You're wasting your timing... Most likely your rear main seal or front main seal is leaking oil..

I never see "liquid gasket oil pan leak in my life !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're wasting your timing... Most likely your rear main seal or front main seal is leaking oil..

I never see "liquid gasket oil pan leak in my life !
That's what I thought at first, but I looked at the front below the timing cover and it's dry. I open up the Torque Converter Inspection Plate and stuck my finger inside, and that was dry too. So it's neither the front nor the rear main seals. This is one peculiar leak, it's right at the middle of the pan, around the bolt edges, definitely not at the main seals. I suspect it could come from above where the oil filter adapter is bolted onto the block, so I was thinking about changing that seal too while the oil pan is out, but I have no idea what kind of Pandora's box I am going to open with that one. Do you have any advice?

Thanks
 

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You're wasting your timing... Most likely your rear main seal or front main seal is leaking oil..

I never see "liquid gasket oil pan leak in my life !
I have to agree with this. Been down this road. I have what sounds to be the same leak as you around the oil filter housing. My rear main leaks as well, but not anywhere bad enough to address. We are just trying to help save you the misery of fixing the pan only to discover you have the same leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you HTL Motorsports and Las4444, I appreciate the advices. That's why I have been holding off until I heard more advices from experienced people.

Actually, doing the oil filter housing appears to be much less work than dropping the oil pan, so I definitely will do that first and report back so others won't jump into the oil pan thingy, which looks to be a royal PIA and a big waste of time.

Thanks again and best regards.
 

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I have seen the spool valve seal (the oil filter housing), the oil pan, the oil pump, and the rear main seal all leak independently from one another.

I have also seen many misdiagnosed oil leaks. People think it's the pan when it's really the oil pump and so on. Other than the spool valve, nothing is really easy to "just guess" with. And the oil pump or rear main can be sometimes impossible to pinpoint without taking lots of stuff out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Supertech,

I am the first one to admit, I'm shooting in the dark. :D

Thanks for pointing out the possibilities. I will do a more thorough inspection to see if I can pinpoint the leak before I do anything.
 

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Just so you all know, this is what an oil pump leak looks like. You have to get the lower timing belt cover off to see it. Otherwise, it wicks along and fools you into thinking its a spool valve seal and/or oil pan leaking. This is a J35A5 engine on a 2003-06 MDX. The silicone gasket seal is applied super super thin at the factory, and it usually gives up near the top somewhere. This one is right on the bolt hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thank you Supertech. I think you nailed it. I removed the timing cover and it looks like it is the oil pump that's leaking. On the left is what you posted and on the right is what mine looks like.

Now I know I would have to reseal that but I have a few questions:

1) Does the water pump have to come out too or can it stay?

2) Does the leak come from the edges around the pump or does it come through the bolts in the picture?

3) Would it be OK to use Hondabond as the sealant?

4) I plan to replace the front seal while I am at it, but at around 160k miles, would the crankshaft be worn out enough to create a leak on its own with the new seal? Does Acura/Honda have a repair sleeve kit for it?

Thanks again to all of you who helped. I would have wasted a lot of time without you guys going out of your ways to help. :29:



Here are more pictures with the timing belt and the oil filter adapter removed. It is clear that the front seal is OK but oil is leaking past the bolt heads. Any suggestions. This is beginning to scare me, since it seems we have to drop the oil pan in order to remove the oil pump. That would be bad indeed!


 

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Water pump can stay in place.

Oil pump has to come down. So be sure to get the o-ring for the pick up tube...it doesn't come with the oil pump assembly.

Don't use Hondabond HT. You want to use Ultra Flange 2 sealant. Also a dealer item.

A new crank seal comes with the oil pump assembly. If there's any residue/tarnish on the crank, just gently remove it with a scotchbrite pad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Supertech. One more question. In the service manual I saw that the oil pickup screen is bolted to the oil pump with two bolts. Besides that, there is another bolt to the block that seems to be hidden way inside the oil pan. Does that mean I have to drop the oil pan in order to do this properly? That's going to be rough!
 

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You have to drop the pan.

So be glad you checked the pump first. It'd drive you up the wall to go through the hassle of resealing the oil pan only to still have the leak and wind up dropping it again to do the pump.
 

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Yes, thank you so much Supertech. I would have been so pissed of at myself. :D
that pic do not look like a leak at all...very minor sipping... re-tighten all the 10mm bolts likely fix it.. instead removing the whole oil pump...

You do not have to take my advice, if you comfortable removing everything in the future again ; if re-tighten bolts do not fix it..then go for it..If you don't mind taking that risk..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi HTL,

Actually the oil seeping out the bolt head is not the real leak. I ran my finger on the top of the oil pump where there is a channel between the oil pump and the block. It's all wet up there, and the oil flows down that channel toward the oil filter adapter before dripping down the side of the oil pan.

There is no way I can see up there, so my conclusion is purely by the feel of my fingers, which could turn out to be very wrong.

At any rate, since I am here already, I may as well go for it! The only problem is that I can work on it for only about 2-3 hours a night since I have a day job! :D

Thanks for your input, I really do appreciate it very much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Help

It took me the whole day, but the oil pump is finally out. Now I am baffled as to how I'm going to put it back together. I hope Supertech or HTL are reading this. :D

Anyway, the Helm's manual says: "Apply liquid gasket evenly to the block mating surface of the oil pump and to the inner threads of the bolt holes."

So my questions are:

1) Which surface? Oil pump or block?

2) Do I apply it as a bead like the oil pan or do I spread it out evenly with a spatula?

3) What do I do around the O-ring? I don't want to contaminate the O-ring with liquid gasket, but can I? If it's not too much to ask, can someone pencil in the picture I attached to show where around the O-ring I should be applying liquid gasket.

Thanks

 

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the whole purpose of you removing oil pump is to replace that o-ring... you can add liquid gasket to Purple highlighted ...it does not really do anything...the o-ring in place to block the oil from the pump assembly to the engine block..

Yes, you right, don't contaminate o-ring with liquid gasket..

The only thing that you should worry about is when you put the oil pan back on..make sure you apply even liquid gasket and let it dry couple hours before you start the car...

Good job by the way :)
 
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