Hi, my driver window isn't working but from the driver door panel all the other windows work properly. I'm looking for options to trouble shoot and pinpoint the issue - saw lots of threads, not sure if they pertained to my issue so giving a new thread a shot. I'm not very technical, so please speak s-l-o-w-l-y in your description of what to do. lol. Thank you for any advice. I've long since given up on the dealer, , as my '01 238k mile MDX just doesn't get any love from them - well too much love, actually they just suggest I spend about what the car is worth to fix whatever they think is wrong, so I'm trying to keep the car going for only another 60k miles or so by relying heavily on this forum. You guys are super. Thanks.
Driver window stopped working, all other windows fine
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Check fuse #8 in the under-hood fusebox (20 amp), and the #15 fuse (7.5 amps).
If you don't get any joy there, the quickest way to figure out if it's the motor (quite likely) or one of several other components (hope not) is to just take the door panel off, unplug the plug going to the motor, and measure the voltage between the two pins that are one either side of the large gap in the plug. You should get battery voltage one way with the switch in the up position, and the opposite way with it in the down position (note that you have to connect both leads of the meter to the two terminals on the plug). You can also apply 12 volts and a ground to the plug on the motor side (corresponding two connectors next to the "gap"), and it should move up or down (try the wires both ways - if you try to move a window that's already up further up, nothing happens).
If you determine that you ARE getting 12 volts to the plug (and a ground), and that putting 12 volts and a ground to the motor connector both ways doesn't move anything, you need a new window regulator (cheap and really very simple to install). If you're NOT getting 12 volts to the plug and the fuses are OK... check back. ;-)
If you don't get any joy there, the quickest way to figure out if it's the motor (quite likely) or one of several other components (hope not) is to just take the door panel off, unplug the plug going to the motor, and measure the voltage between the two pins that are one either side of the large gap in the plug. You should get battery voltage one way with the switch in the up position, and the opposite way with it in the down position (note that you have to connect both leads of the meter to the two terminals on the plug). You can also apply 12 volts and a ground to the plug on the motor side (corresponding two connectors next to the "gap"), and it should move up or down (try the wires both ways - if you try to move a window that's already up further up, nothing happens).
If you determine that you ARE getting 12 volts to the plug (and a ground), and that putting 12 volts and a ground to the motor connector both ways doesn't move anything, you need a new window regulator (cheap and really very simple to install). If you're NOT getting 12 volts to the plug and the fuses are OK... check back. ;-)
The Window cable (Aka the Regulator)
To change
Order a Used Window Regulator from Ebay. (About $60?)
Open door fully.
Remove two screws in door handles.
Remove the Speaker Grill
Remove the speaker screws (3?)
pull panel outward (It pops open if you remove those screws and pull the door handle.)
Don't break the door lock at the upper left.
The motor is located above the speaker (And inside the door) unbolt it.
(The tricky part), see if you can somehow lower the window because getting to the two window screws is a pain if the window is up.
Raise the window and lock in place with some screwdrivers (There are these nice holes for that)
Remove the regulator track (two big bolts),
and replace.
Take you about an hour to do.
To change
Order a Used Window Regulator from Ebay. (About $60?)
Open door fully.
Remove two screws in door handles.
Remove the Speaker Grill
Remove the speaker screws (3?)
pull panel outward (It pops open if you remove those screws and pull the door handle.)
Don't break the door lock at the upper left.
The motor is located above the speaker (And inside the door) unbolt it.
(The tricky part), see if you can somehow lower the window because getting to the two window screws is a pain if the window is up.
Raise the window and lock in place with some screwdrivers (There are these nice holes for that)
Remove the regulator track (two big bolts),
and replace.
Take you about an hour to do.
Hey guys, thanks again for the how-to. I planned this for my very handy hubby, but as he was out of town I ended up having a shop take a look and yes it was the regulator, which they wanted to charge me $250 for the part but luckily I was able to get a new one from CarQuest for $92 and drive it over there for them to install... BUT now I got the car back and the window seems to be rubbing as it moves up and down - I can hear it and visually see marks since the window hadn't been cleaned in a while (storm stuff, dust, pollen was on the outside). Based on FORBIN404's instructions, it doesn't seem like replacing the regulator should impact why there would be rubbing, that wasn't there before?
Or what am I ignorant about here - is this a different issue or related? Can handy hubby take the door panel off and fix this new issue?
Or what am I ignorant about here - is this a different issue or related? Can handy hubby take the door panel off and fix this new issue?
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6,345 Posts
Did you get an OEM part? Could be an alignment issue with the glass. Or you could try some shinitsu grease on the rubber window guides. Hubby should be able to open it up and take a look.
I don't think it is OEM, what was I thinking not checking that. I just googled for parts that would fit. Argh. I was in a hurry since the shop was rushing me, since they wanted to sell me the $250 part. Ok thanks, I'll ask hubby to check alignment and grease window guides as you suggest. Thank you!
The shop botched the install, without a doubt. It's really a very simple DIY job, but there IS a certain amount of finesse required - something that's in short supply at a lot of shops.
With the door panel off, and the window disconnected from the regulator, you should be able to slide it up and down the channel with ease, and without much resistance. There are a host of things the shop might have done that would misalign the regulator (or window itself) that could cause audible rubbing - my guess is that they knocked one end of the window out of the channel it's supposed to ride in inside the door. Or they might have just gotten something installed a little crooked.
Just another reason I twist my own wrenches - I don't pretend to be the greatest mechanic around, but I care more about my car than anyone I can pay to fix it!
With the door panel off, and the window disconnected from the regulator, you should be able to slide it up and down the channel with ease, and without much resistance. There are a host of things the shop might have done that would misalign the regulator (or window itself) that could cause audible rubbing - my guess is that they knocked one end of the window out of the channel it's supposed to ride in inside the door. Or they might have just gotten something installed a little crooked.
Just another reason I twist my own wrenches - I don't pretend to be the greatest mechanic around, but I care more about my car than anyone I can pay to fix it!
IMHO I think they didn't install the track properly. If it isn't in the 'groove' properly you would see that.
The window goes up and down the regulator but it does follow the track on the outside. If they put it on the wrong part of the track, it can do that.
That's why I put the window 100% up after unbolting, keeps everything in the right track
(Some people remove the window which causes issues later)
The window goes up and down the regulator but it does follow the track on the outside. If they put it on the wrong part of the track, it can do that.
That's why I put the window 100% up after unbolting, keeps everything in the right track
(Some people remove the window which causes issues later)
Like forbin404, I've seen instructions that suggest removing the window. I have no idea why, though... it really doesn't need to come out, and is just making it much more likely that something will get put back together wrong. I'll bet that's what happened.
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