Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

21 - 40 of 65 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
We have owned our 2010 since new. I always took it to the dealer we bought it from and serviced it according to when the MID tells me to. It doesn’t burn oil, and my worst concerns have only been with the rusting mufflers and corroding doors sill garnishes and that’s about it. But when I read about others with electrical issues, oil consumption, trans cooler failures, etc... it does cause some paranoia for me in thinking one day I might not be so blessed and I’ll get hit with all of these known issues all at once 😳
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
i change my synthetic oil every 3500 or at about 50% oil is very cheap engines are not, you guys changing at 10k intervals are nuts jmo, How much did your x cost you????? how much does 4.5qts oil cost????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
i change my synthetic oil every 3500 or at about 50% oil is very cheap engines are not, you guys changing at 10k intervals are nuts jmo, How much did your x cost you????? how much does 4.5qts oil cost????
And there in lies the problem of maintenance discussions in forums, specifically oil change intervals. Kind of like choosing how fast to drive. Anybody going faster than me is an idiot and anyone going slower than me is a grandma. "My speed is just right" lol.

I'm actually with you in feeling that oil is cheap and the MID stretches it too long for those of us that want to get 250K+ out of a car. Personally I do 5K full syn changes with a tire rotation and my logic is super simple. At 5K I am beyond the best 50% of the oil, it's a good interval to do a tire rotation, and the most important part is I never need to think about when I am due. Every time the odo hits a 5 or a 0 I do it. And if I am 500 miles over no big deal, I still change it at the next 5 or 0, so sometimes it goes 5,500 miles and other times 4,500 miles, but my average is 5K. Either follow the MID or fall into a routine that makes sense to you, but for me 5K is an easy number.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,338 Posts
Mobil 1 ANNUAL Protection I change my oil every 15K or 1 year which ever comes first...
Before that I was using Mobil 1 EP using the same interval and has been like that for the past +5years with zero issues on the MDX.. On my TL-S I have been doing that interval since 2009 so +10years doing 1yr oil changes.

People forget the Oil Change Reminder was tuned for the crappy Dyno Oil Honda sold.. Using anything Synthetic drastically changes the Oil Service Life so the OCR becomes moot point.

But hey if people wanna keep wasting perfectly good oil? what do we care.. Its their money after all.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RainGoat

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,654 Posts
i change my synthetic oil every 3500 or at about 50% oil is very cheap engines are not, you guys changing at 10k intervals are nuts jmo, How much did your x cost you????? how much does 4.5qts oil cost????
Pretty basic math...let's say $35 minimum for an oil/filter. Over 150k miles you will perform 42 oil changes and spend roughly $1,500. At 10k miles you'll do 15 changes and spend $500. Considering it's fairly well documented these engines can easily go 150k mile on a 10k mile interval...how many more miles are you expecting to get for your $1,000 investment? Pretty much every Toyota and Lexus on the road since 2009 has a recommended 10k mile oil change interval and this is the two most reliable brands on the road. You really think they're going to risk their reputation if 10k miles isn't a conservative figure?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
Pretty basic math...let's say $35 minimum for an oil/filter. Over 150k miles you will perform 42 oil changes and spend roughly $1,500. At 10k miles you'll do 15 changes and spend $500. Considering it's fairly well documented these engines can easily go 150k mile on a 10k mile interval...how many more miles are you expecting to get for your $1,000 investment? Pretty much every Toyota and Lexus on the road since 2009 has a recommended 10k mile oil change interval and this is the two most reliable brands on the road. You really think they're going to risk their reputation if 10k miles isn't a conservative figure?
I'm looking to get another 100-150K at that point and since my additional 15 oil changes cost me $25 each or $375 I think that's good insurance. To each his own of course. I've run a couple of 10K intervals and just didn't like how dirty the oil looked compared to my usual drain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RainGoat

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,338 Posts
Oil Color doesn't say anything.. Mobil 1 llikes to darkens itself in the first weeks that doesnt mean its dirty. My TL-S has almost 300K and has been doing 1yr old changes for the past 10 years.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RainGoat

·
Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
Oil Color doesn't say anything.. Mobil 1 llikes to darkens itself in the first weeks that doesnt mean its dirty. My TL-S has almost 300K and has been doing 1yr old changes for the past 10 years.
I understand that, and have for years. My first Honda Odyssey, an '06 I bought new, had 5K Mobil 1 until 166K when it got totaled. It had the same type of dipstick the Gen2 MDX's did with the cable and at 166K that cable was only slightly darkened and no build up or gunk. The replacement '07 was purchased at 6 years old and 113K miles and I got records of every service done to it. Oil changes done with dino 5W20 by the MID. The dipstick cable was black and gunky. I take that as representative to what the rest of the engine looked like. I used brake clean to clean up the dipstick cable as best I could and started in on my 5K routine. The first few changes the oil coming out looked very black, but after that it settled into dark brown at each change and now 113K miles later the dipstick cable looks exactly the same as the day I cleaned it. Yes, I know the synthetic oil may do a better job even if I ran it 10K, but about 60K in on the 2nd Ody I tried a 10K interval and once again had really black oil, so I went back to my 5K routine. I realize this is exactly scientific, but neither is one motor going 300K on once a year changes. My MILs 2009 Accord has 18K miles on it and I've settled into Mobil 1 every 3rd year in the fall, so it's not that I'm scared of the time. The oil only has about 2K miles on it at that point though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Seeing different posters post their issues with the mdx, does it scare you in the long term reliability (talking about >100k miles) and factor how long you will keep the mdx for?
I'm old enough to know better than to ever say never but the moon, stars, and planets would all have to align in perfect harmony for me to ever buy another MDX. For the money they are just NOT WORTH IT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have had my 2010 since new, now has 151k. Since the only out of warranty repairs I have had totaled around $100, not too concerned. Keep waiting for it to die but my mechanic tells me it’s in good shape. I’ll have to reacess before the next timing belt/water pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
If you're not one to work on your own vehicle, they're not worth paying the absurd prices to have shops or dealerships work on them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Pretty basic math...let's say $35 minimum for an oil/filter. Over 150k miles you will perform 42 oil changes and spend roughly $1,500. At 10k miles you'll do 15 changes and spend $500. Considering it's fairly well documented these engines can easily go 150k mile on a 10k mile interval...how many more miles are you expecting to get for your $1,000 investment? Pretty much every Toyota and Lexus on the road since 2009 has a recommended 10k mile oil change interval and this is the two most reliable brands on the road. You really think they're going to risk their reputation if 10k miles isn't a conservative figure?
The Lexus lx, gx and Toyota Land Cruiser still call for 6 months / 5k In owners manual, Not sure on others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Always good to toss around problems and see what folks have done. I just did a complete front brake job after reading some of the posts. I’ve had several Honda’s and now have 2nd acura. I understand about the brakes so after reading post here I went ahead and saved myself time by just replacing the Honda/Acura front brakes and pads with better quality stuff. I’ll keep the Acura rotors and pads though maybe I’ll turn them and use them for my next change.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RainGoat

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Here is my suggestion when it comes to oil changes.
1. Go full synthetic, it's better for the environment and the oil doesn't break down like fossil oil
2. If your vehicle is still under warranty, FOLLOW THE WARRANTY SPECIFICATIONS
3. You are never obligated to listen to "bro science," if you want to base your decisions on solid science simply have your oil tested. It may cost a little up front but you really only need to do it 2-3 times, based on your comfort level, to figure out how often you actually NEED to change your oil. There are labs all over the place that will do it, if you can't find one contact an Ams Oil dealer (mostly auto shops) and ask them to order a kit for you from Ams Oil. The kit is around $20-$30 and it includes the analysis fee. You get a rod that looks like a dip stick, put it down the dip stick hole, it captures the sample, and you mail it back to the Ams Oil lab. The "common rule" is to change your oil every 6 months, so maybe at 5 months you get your oil analyzed, this will give you the confidence of whether or not you can go another 6 months on the same oil. For 98% of the people out there (using synthetic oil) the answer will be YES. So then at 11 months you do it again, and you then have the information you need based on actual science. Personally I don't go longer than a year without changing my oil, however, you can keep doing the same process as long as you would like until the oil itself falls under the safety threshold. So here is another lab I just looked up and their price is $30
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
Haha how does every 2G MDX discussion converts to an Oil consumption discussion LOL

As for the original question, personally for me, I would have never known that my car burned oil if I never visited the forums and I see a lot of them on the road which most likely have this issue but are peacefully unaware. I too probably would have continued doing oil changes based on Maintenance Minder and probably not face any issue, but now I regularly check and top up or oil change as the need be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I would say yes. My MDX has been rock solid (albeit I ditched the horrible and expensive active shocks). It does consume around a quart of oil by service time and I am only at 75k on my 2010. So, while I could be happy with this car for another 100k+ miles, I do wonder if I am holding on to a time bomb and, being off-warranty, I am better to unload it now, than take a total loss (engine fail vs. value of car) if it fails. Good to see so many people say they are happy and issue free (relatively) on this thread, but we know the bad numbers were enough for class-action as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
I would say yes. My MDX has been rock solid (albeit I ditched the horrible and expensive active shocks). It does consume around a quart of oil by service time and I am only at 75k on my 2010. So, while I could be happy with this car for another 100k+ miles, I do wonder if I am holding on to a time bomb and, being off-warranty, I am better to unload it now, than take a total loss (engine fail vs. value of car) if it fails. Good to see so many people say they are happy and issue free (relatively) on this thread, but we know the bad numbers were enough for class-action as well.
It sounds like you’ve addressed the only significant & costly issue of the “sport” shocks. You’ll need to do a timing belt around 100K & I’d do the water pump then. Expect maybe an alternator & you should be good for 200-250K easily. That’s really the beauty of a Honda. By comparison to the vast majority of vehicles these are about as good as you get. I’m going to redo shocks & springs because I’d like it good as new again but I’m planning another 100K & 10 yrs on my 2009 with 125K. Go look at the “After 10 years....” thread, that should be reassuring.

I’m curious about the comment regarding a Class Action suit - was there one on the 2nd Gen MDX? If so, I’m unaware of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Yeah I feel you I'm having some buyers remorse. I wanted a Pilot originally but I found a deal on a 2011 MDX Tech. Bought it and then did my research unfortunately. Needed a timing belt, 4 shocks that need to be converted from ADS, tires. Not to mention there's only two little cupholders to set your stuff in. The pilot has loads of storage in the center console area but nearly none in the MDX, I don't get it. It's still a nice driving car. Oh and it burns oil. :cautious:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
Yeah I feel you I'm having some buyers remorse. I wanted a Pilot originally but I found a deal on a 2011 MDX Tech. Bought it and then did my research unfortunately. Needed a timing belt, 4 shocks that need to be converted from ADS, tires. Not to mention there's only two little cupholders to set your stuff in. The pilot has loads of storage in the center console area but nearly none in the MDX, I don't get it. It's still a nice driving car. Oh and it burns oil. :cautious:
Yep, I also started out looking for a Pilot, but when year, miles, and condition were similar the MDXs were virtually the same money. This wasn't exactly breaking news on the concept of a well equipped Honda selling for about the same money as an Acura and it's not unique to Honda/Acura, but seen frequently with Toyota/Lexus and Nissan/Infiniti. I wrote it off to pretty much being because lower middle class buyers being scared that the luxury name plate will be a lot more money to service and repair, something that a moderate DIY capable person can negate, so I jumped on the MDX. The only thing I missed in the decision was the need of the MDX to have premium fuel, and that $.60 a gallon adds up. The common issue is that the luxury version is almost always easier to find in very good cosmetic condition having a good maintenance history. That makes sense because the original buyer was likely an upper middle class person who took pride in their vehicle and took good care of it. Find a one owner or even a 2nd owner that bought it CPO or off lease and the luxury model is far less likely to be ratted out, especially in a vehicle class that appeals to couples with young kids. The Pilots of the same age are often scuffed and stained on the interior and kid marks on the outside. It's like playing blackjack or poker, play the odds for a generally better outcome.
 
21 - 40 of 65 Posts
Top