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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys!

2011 MDX

78K

So when braking at highway speed of 70-80mph the steering wheel shakes pretty bad. The pedal kind of, but barely shakes. So the research I've r read says this is a rotor problem

When I got service at the dealer a few months ago for something else..they said my rear brakes were at a "3" and would need replacement soon.

Here are pics of the rear brakes...I don't know if the red color is there by design indicating it almost time to replace?

Thanks for your help!
 

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The red dot doesn’t mean anything... it it does appear like a nice lip has worn on your rotors. I wouldn’t be surprised if you need new rotors and pads.
 

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I've had the same exact issue with the TSX and RDX around the same mileage. It has also been an issue with a lot of Acura's with OEM brakes/rotors. Most folks agree it from an uneven build-up of OEM pad material creating high/low spots on the rotors to feel like "warped rotors" during high speed braking. Turning the rotors will fix the issue; but, the build-up will start all over again in about he same amount of time. I just turned the rotors on my TSX and RDX because they are just in city commuter/errand vehicles at 7-9K per year and it takes +75K for it to re-occur.

The three fixes are:
- replace with aftermarket pads
- replace with aftermarket rotors
- replace both pad and rotors

I replaced my pads and rotors at 32K on my 11 MDX and now have +108K and not a hint of the warp rotor feeling at high speed braking (speed limit is 75-80 mph in the areas I like to run).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've had the same exact issue with the TSX and RDX around the same mileage. It has also been an issue with a lot of Acura's with OEM brakes/rotors. Most folks agree it from an uneven build-up of OEM pad material creating high/low spots on the rotors to feel like "warped rotors" during high speed braking. Turning the rotors will fix the issue; but, the build-up will start all over again in about he same amount of time. I just turned the rotors on my TSX and RDX because they are just in city commuter/errand vehicles at 7-9K per year and it takes +75K for it to re-occur.

The three fixes are:
- replace with aftermarket pads
- replace with aftermarket rotors
- replace both pad and rotors

I replaced my pads and rotors at 32K on my 11 MDX and now have +108K and not a hint of the warp rotor feeling at high speed braking (speed limit is 75-80 mph in the areas I like to run).
Thank you so! I'm going to call around places to see how might it's going to cost me. How should skill if that going to cost me? ?
 

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It can almost be within a few hundred bucks to replace the rotors compared to labor at a shop to turn them. If it takes almost 80,000 miles before you notice the warp feeling; it might be more cost effective to just turn them because you have until 160,000 miles on the odo before they "warp" again.
 

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I'd replace pads and rotors at all four corners and be done with it. Brake rotors are becoming one-time use parts and you're seeing less and less rotors able to be turned. Go with aftermarket parts. I'd guess you would spend $300-$350 per axle to have a shop do the work. If you are any bit inclined, you can do the work yourself a lot cheaper. And brakes are on the lower end of the difficulty spectrum.
 

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I won't turn rotors. If they have unacceptable runout then they should be replaced, imo.
 

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2008 MDX Tech+Power Tail Gate, Sterling Gray
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I took the rotors to a local O'Reillys. Each rotor turned for US$15.00. I have not had the vibration issue on my X. I turned the rotors @ 104K miles when I replaced the original set of pads (front and rear). The tech checked each rotor to minimum thickness specification and all of them were in spec.
 

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I literally just dealt with this exact problem 3 days ago!

2011 Tech with over 100k, I had resurfaced the rotors last year with new pads and the shudder came back.

So I decided to fix the problem for good.

Ordered EBC yellowstuff pads with rotors at AutoZone and put them on.

Still in the 200 mile bedding in time, but I already can tell a difference.

I'm hoping to also prevent warping when I hit the Autobahn in 3 months.

Would I recommend them? I'll know more in a week, but if cost is an issue... Ha.

Pictures are below (out of order). For all the critics out there, yeah my masking job sucked, yeah it's yellow, but they match the fancy brake pads now, right? Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Tire


Sorry... Didn't answer the question you asked - 96.3% chance your issue is rotor related.
 

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I did Racing brake slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines and Carbotech 1521 pads, and G2 High Temperature Brake Caliper Paint System (Red). I haven't had an hint of warping with almost 80,000 miles with this combo. The rotors are advertised as not needed turning until after 3-4 brake pads. I'm still on the original 1521 pads with 5mm on front pads at last oil change at Acura.
 

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I did Racing brake slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines and Carbotech 1521 pads, and G2 High Temperature Brake Caliper Paint System (Red). I haven't had an hint of warping with almost 80,000 miles with this combo. The rotors are advertised as not needed turning until after 3-4 brake pads. I'm still on the original 1521 pads with 5mm on front pads at last oil change at Acura.
What's your thoughts on those steel braided brake lines?

I thought about it but was thinking it might make the brakes too firm.
 

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I really didn't notice a difference before or after installation. I did brake kit from HeelToe Automotive and it included the rotors, pads, fluid, and steel brake lines. It was just cosmetic than functional for me.
 

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I took the rotors to a local O'Reillys. Each rotor turned for US$15.00. I have not had the vibration issue on my X. I turned the rotors @ 104K miles when I replaced the original set of pads (front and rear). The tech checked each rotor to minimum thickness specification and all of them were in spec.
That's what I do too. Same place. Getting ready to do it for the first time on our '14 MDX Tech AWD at 55K. Original ads are in good shape so I'll make sure they are flat and go some more. Discs are very groove free. Just slight warpage.
 

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It makes no sense to turn rotors.....just replace them and be done with it. Replacing rotors and pads doesn't require a lot of brain power. The hardest part is jacking up the X and removing the tires. Don't forget to place jack stands under both sides. You don't need slots or cut rotors.....stock will do just fine.

Good luck......
 

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I've been lucky...still have factory pads/discs at 115k miles. Pads still have a decent amount of life and the discs have never vibrated at all until just last week. I got on the brakes rather hard at 80+mph and they vibrated a little. Time to replace everything with OEM. Can't justify anything else given how long these have lasted and I've been satisfied with the performance.
 

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Looks like my RDX with OEM brake/pads with around 50,000 miles on them. I did my RDX pads at around 100K and I usually don't feel the "warping" until +80,000 miles with OEM pads/rotors. My MDX looks a litter better with almost 85,000 miles with the same Racing brake slotted and 1521 pad and zero hint of "warping".
 

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I have same problem with steering wheel shaking during braking at 80mph. Here is my rotors look like at 80k miles



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's actually not possible to diagnose if rotors are warped from photos. What I can say is that it doesn't *appear* to have glazed over - which would be indicated by the rotors turning a blue/purple tint.

A shop that turns rotors may be able to tell you if they are warped if you bring them in.

As I said earlier, I too had shaking issues when stopping from +75 mph, and my issue was warped rotors. YMMV.
 
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