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Discussion Starter #1
My 2011 MDX Adv/ENT developed a humming/droning sound between 70-80 MPH since I bought it [pre-owned]. The Acura dealer said it could be one of the front bearing starting to go bad. They didn't know exactly which one. They balanced the tires, and suggested me to keep on driving. If the humming/droning noise gets louder, bring it back in. It never got any louder so I never brought it back in. Meanwhile, I bought two oem front bearings to anticipate fixing the problem.

So, last Saturday I decided to replace them both myself. Heck, only $200. It took roughly about 6 hours. This includes putting new brake pads on and cleaning the caliper sliding pins, and frequent breaks. I worked in 90-degree heat in the direct sunlight. The axle nuts were easy to remove using 1/2" breaker bar 25" long from Harbor Freight. The four bolts were also taking no effort to remove. I bought this sliding hammer for removing the bearing. HERE


Did it fix the humming/droning? I'm not so sure yet since the front passenger side tire is making loud noise. I think the humming/droning is gone, but I will know for sure after I replace the tires next week.

1. Vehicle on ground. Apply parking brake. Remove the wheel cap. Level the notch on the axle nut. Remove.

2. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket. Place a 5-gallon bucket upside down and place the caliper on it.

3. Remove the two tiny screws on the rotor, and remove the rotor.

4. Remove the four flange bolts.

5. Attach the sliding hammer to the bearing, screw it down with three lug nuts. Slide the hammer. Re-tighten the lug nuts as you go. Note: Don't use the good lug nuts because it will be damaged. Suggest buy a cheap ones to use.

6. Clean the driveshaft joint with the wire brush.

7. Insert the new bearing into the driveshaft joint along with the brake splash guard. Attach the sliding hammer to the new bearing. Again, use the lug nuts that you are going to throw away. With left hand holding and aligning the driveshaft assembly, use the right hand and hammer it in.

Note: Minor dent on the bearing due to impact of the hammer. Also, the saw tooth of the bearing won't go in all the way completely. Initially, I was nervous, but I removed the other side axle nut to check, it looked the same. I also measured the depth to verify.

8. Insert the four flange bolts, and torque them to 70 ft-lbs.

9. Install the rotor. Put the wheel/tire on and hand tighten the lug nuts. One passenger side, place a large paver/brick in front of the tire to block the wheel from rotating while you torque the axle nut. Torque the axle nut to 242 ft-lbs [SKF Manuf. reference guide]. I think 240 ft-lbs to 242 ft-lbs you are good.

10. Remove the tire and the rotor. Notch the axle nut.

11. Install the rotor back and secure it with the two screws.

12. Install caliper bracket back [101 ft-lbs] , and slide in the brake pads.

13. Push the caliper piston in c-clamp or specialized tool. I used the later. Slide the caliper into the caliper bracket. Torque the bolt to 53 ft-lbs.

14. Install the wheel/tire. On the passenger side, place a large paver/brick in front of the tire to prevent it from rotating while you torque the lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts to 94 ft-lbs.

15. Repeat on the other side. On the driver side, the paver/brick is in the back of the tire.
 

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I worked in 90-degree heat in the direct sunlight.

-- you deserve at least some shade, bro. hope you had plenty of sun block. also the link for the hammer does not work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can't edit the original post anymore. Try HERE

Unfortunately I didn't have sun block on, and never used it before. Sweat was dripping profusely.
 

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Was the wheel bearing part from Amazon good? I replaced my brakes (rotors and pads) and still getting a Grinding sound at low speeds. I think it is my bearing going bad. I am not sure if I should source the part and find a local mechanic to fix it or go to the dealer. I have 2012 /51k miles.
 

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...
7. Insert the new bearing into the driveshaft joint along with the brake splash guard. Attach the sliding hammer to the new bearing. Again, use the lug nuts that you are going to throw away. With left hand holding and aligning the driveshaft assembly, use the right hand and hammer it in.

Note: Minor dent on the bearing due to impact of the hammer. Also, the saw tooth of the bearing won't go in all the way completely. Initially, I was nervous, but I removed the other side axle nut to check, it looked the same. I also measured the depth to verify.

....

Why did you have to use the hammer to install the new bearing in place?


It is supposed to go in without much resistance.
 

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Could not press in by hand. Needed to hammer in.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
In that case, your new bearing will prematurely fail. By hammering on the hub which is directly pressed to the inner raceway, it uses the balls of the bearing to transmit the impacts to the outer raceway to press into the knuckle base. Impacts transmitted through the balls cause micro indentations on both of the bearing raceways (inner and outer) and balls themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In that case, your new bearing will prematurely fail. By hammering on the hub which is directly pressed to the inner raceway, it uses the balls of the bearing to transmit the impacts to the outer raceway to press into the knuckle base. Impacts transmitted through the balls cause micro indentations on both of the bearing raceways (inner and outer) and balls themselves.
Trust me, even young Arnold Schwarzenegger would not able to press by hand. It did went in by hand maybe half way, but not any further. The threads were cleaned and no debris that could cause the resistence. It has been more than 3 yrs now, and still work perfectly.

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Discussion Starter #10
is it recommended to use grease to help?
The original bearings had no grease on them. So I think it is not recommended to apply grease. It took a good sweating to remove the bearing by hammering. By the way, there was no rust.

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The original bearings had no grease on them. So I think it is not recommended to apply grease. It took a good sweating to remove the bearing by hammering. By the way, there was no rust.

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did you put the hub in a big freezer for a while? i heard that can help.
 
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