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I have a 2010 MDX Advance approaching the time and mileage for the timing belt service/change. I am considering changing the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, idler pulleys, tension adjuster, etc. myself using OEM parts.

Has anyone else on the forum completed a DIY timing belt service?

If so, I would appreciate your suggestions, comments, tips, etc. BTW, I did search this forum and did not find a DIY posting, however, I may have not searched properly.
 

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I only recommend OEM belts and Water pumps. I just finished changing the timing belt, water pump and tensioner/pulleys on my Step Fathers 07 Ridgeline and my 11 MDX Advance this past week. The process and most parts are identical throughout the J Series line of engines. I highly recommend using the Helm (OEM Service) manual if this is your first endeavor. Having changed belts and chains on Hondas for the better part of two decades now, I can say the J series V6 is the easiest of them all, but requires the most removal/access.
 

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I only recommend OEM belts and Water pumps. I just finished changing the timing belt, water pump and tensioner/pulleys on my Step Fathers 07 Ridgeline and my 11 MDX Advance this past week. The process and most parts are identical throughout the J Series line of engines. I highly recommend using the Helm (OEM Service) manual if this is your first endeavor. Having changed belts and chains on Hondas for the better part of two decades now, I can say the J series V6 is the easiest of them all, but requires the most removal/access.
Thanks Heresnowhy and others for your excellent comments. I do have the OEM manual and I will use it as a guide. It appears loosening the harmonic balancer nut is a big deal. I will purchase the special tool that fits into internal hex of the balancer pulley and allows you to apply loosening torque to the retaining nut. But I will have to rig up some cheater bars as I might not have the physical strength to break the nut loose.

One question : After you gain access to the timing belt but before you remove it, can you manually rotate the crankshaft a bit to line up all the reference marks on the two camshafts and crankshaft? Or can they be individually lined up after the old timing belt is removed?
 

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Thanks Heresnowhy and others for your excellent comments. I do have the OEM manual and I will use it as a guide. It appears loosening the harmonic balancer nut is a big deal. I will purchase the special tool that fits into internal hex of the balancer pulley and allows you to apply loosening torque to the retaining nut. But I will have to rig up some cheater bars as I might not have the physical strength to break the nut loose.

One question : After you gain access to the timing belt but before you remove it, can you manually rotate the crankshaft a bit to line up all the reference marks on the two camshafts and crankshaft? Or can they be individually lined up after the old timing belt is removed?
The hex tool is a must. All Honda crank pulleys use that pattern. Mine was $25 on amazon and saved me so many times on my B-series blocks.

After loosening the bolt, if I needed to set the crank to TDC, I would use the hex tool to rotate the crank pulley (instead of turning on the bolt). Just attach a breaker bar and turn the crank pulley with the hex tool installed. It's much easier.

Once you're at TDC, unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley.
 

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To further the Crank Pulley Tool (which is available at Advance Auto off the shelf for $25) information. I recommend this simple tip. I use a 4 foot pipe as a breaker bar slid over my 24 inch breaker bar. Place the the Crank tool into the pulley with a 2nd breaker bar and brace the handle against the frame in the direction you are rotating. Place a 19mm socket on the second breaker bar (the one you are applying force to) with a 1/2 extension around 18-20 inches long and support the end where the breaker bar attaches with a jack stand. Slide the pipe over the breaker bar and push down. Should take less than 10 seconds with that amount of leverage.
 

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I have done three timing belts on the MDX thus far, and I have to say Honda probably employed an army of gorillas just to tighten those crank pulleys.
 

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I have done three timing belts on the MDX thus far, and I have to say Honda probably employed an army of gorillas just to tighten those crank pulleys.
It's an improvement over the old D series 4cy Hondas. I recall working at Honda in the very early 90's and doing CRX timing belts. The TSB stated thread locker was used at the factory and removal required 1800-2000 ft/lbs to remove. We were snapping bolts off in the block.
 

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I have done three timing belts on the MDX thus far, and I have to say Honda probably employed an army of gorillas just to tighten those crank pulleys.
I'll say! When I did it, I had to do the starter blip to get it off. These days I have no problem writing the check to have someone else do this. :)
 

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I have done three timing belts on the MDX thus far, and I have to say Honda probably employed an army of gorillas just to tighten those crank pulleys.
Removing the crank pulley is one of the few times I break out my Ingersol Rand Impact gun. Even though I have impact, I still use hand tools quite a bit for some reason for everything else.
 
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