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what's up? I've owned 5 Acura s and there have been more in the family. Not one ever needed a throttle body but a couple needed a light spray cleaning of the throttle body with a special cleaner that is safe on the parts. Is yours damaged?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got the "all errors" issue on the wife's car and the dealership recommended changing the TB.

I am not convinced but it is what it is.
 

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if the battery goes low it causes all kinds of problems. How old is the battery in years/months?

Thanks for all the feedback. I took my MDX to Harper Acura in TN. They ran a diagnostic on my vehicle and found that I had a recall that needed fixed (I believe it was the problem that nozoo posted) and three software updates. Harper Acura took me right away, fixed the problem with in an hour and didn't charge me a dime for their service. Thank you Haprer Acura for your great service. I drove it back to my home state, 550 miles with out any issues.
I had the all warning lights issues (aka) christmas light issue on my 2015 a few months back.

Aside from the warning lights the car drove like it always have, it never locked up and it always started. I did some research and most seem to have happened when it was cold out and they had some battery glitch and in the cases where it was resolved it was brought to the dealer and it was given back without much information on what fixed it.


I asked my wife about the situation on when she got the warnings and how the car started, she recalled that the day before the car struggled to start, she said it sounded like the battery was dead but then it started. It was cold out, 15 degrees! The next day she tried starting the car and it struggled again but a bit longer than the previous day and when it started the warning lights appeared.


That lead me to believe it was a battery connection glitch as there is no way all those issues all went at once. I have a buddy that sells Honda / Acura's for a living and he told me to just reset the codes and get a new battery. I went into the diagnostics (developer) mode and reset the codes and on the next start the warnings disappeared.

I got a new battery and have not had the issue since.

I am out of Warranty on my 2015 so I try and test things out as I go. If I was still under warranty I would be at acura.

I don’t know if this will work for everyone but for me it all added up to a battery glitch and with a lack of information on what fixed it from other people dropping it off at dealers and my Acura buddy telling me to just reset the codes and get new battery it was worth a shot for me and so far so good. I did need a new battery as it was about that time anyway so more “evidence”’pointing that direction.

I tend to think when there are these oddball issues dealers will opt to keep your car and do unecessary work to rack up warranty billing - they still get paid for warranty work. It does seem some dealers know what to do and I assume they reset the code and tell the customers you are all good to go without much information or the usual - “we cannot reproduce it but if it comes back bring it back in.”
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My battery is 3 months old.

Back to my original question, does anyone have a DIY for the Throttle Body replacement ?

Thanks
 

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Nope.

It's not inconceivable that a 3 month old battery is bad. However it IS inconceivable that a dealer would guess at the problem and offer a recommendation, moreover that they would surmise that all warning lights on the dash coming on would be a failing throttle body. I would expect a bad TB would trigger the MIL to come on and specific P code(s) to be easily read with a scan tool.
 
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I have a hard time believing that they KNOW it's the TB when they "recommend" changing the part. Sounds like someone is guessing and keeping their fingers crossed. Personally, I would not just start throwing parts at it.

First, I would make sure the rubber hose from the air cleaner housing to the TB is not torn or have any other damage. Make sure the clamp to the TB is snug. If it is, get yourself a spray can of throttle body cleaner, remove the air intake hose and clean the TB thoroughly. Open the butterfly inside the throttle body carefully and spray inside, back of the butterfly, everything you can get to. A lint free towel (not paper towels) or old toothbrush is helpful for scrubbing without damage.

While you are at it, clean the MAF sensor (special cleaner for that too). it's an often overlooked part that can trigger a check engine light. I took a quick look and it looks like it sits at the top of the air filter housing - 1 plug and 2 silver screws to remove. Use extra care with it -- there are generally very delicate wires inside. Remove the sensor and spray the cleaner from several inches away from the wires so you don't damage them. Let the part air dry before reinstalling. DO NOT use compressed air or towels to speed up the process.

Once you reassemble everything it may be hard to start for the first time but just give it a few more seconds of cranking. May also run rough for a minute. If you see some smoke from the exhaust, don't panic -- it will go away shortly. Take it for a drive and feel the difference.
 

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I think you're not getting details because most likely no one here has replaced the throttle body on the 3rd gen MDX. Probably no one actually had one go bad.

It seems really odd to me that they suggested the TB since my only experience with the all lights/clicking effect was due to a dead battery (over 4 years old) and a number of others posted similarly.

At a minimum, make sure the battery is tested with a load tester. It's possible for batteries to fail very prematurely.

It's also possible it's a problem with a battery cable, including dirty ones, the alternator, or some other electrical item.
 

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unless someone damaged the throttle body it is hard to visualize it causing an all errors type event. That is usually the battery or alternator or both. I got it on my 2015 and it was the battery, still under factory warranty. Gotta remember that so much of the electronics remain in a sleep mode rather than turning off and any drop in voltage below a set point causes errors to be logged,

Last weekend I finished the fog light installation and had to pull the battery. It logged errors that I had to clear because of the instructions on having the battery hooked up to move the steering wheel, then disconnect then reconnect etc. Since I knew the cause I just cleared them. One can also get them sometimes by turning the engine off while it is starting. Kinda like a warnings on a computer if it is shut down improperly -
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree with everything in this thread and the dealership want to charge me $600 to swap the throttle body.

I've bought the part and want to do it myself.

Looks like I'm going in blind. It can't be that hard, can it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Downloaded from the eStore. Looks like I need to hook up the HDS to remove the saved TPS location. Rest of it looks pretty simple.
 

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You should save your money and think about returning the TB before you put it on. Code the car and find out what the codes mean. What part exactly goes bad in a TB? There are sensors and stuff on the TB that might go bad, but replace the entire TB? sounds very sketch
 

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I think everyone is trying to help you save you money and aggravation. I too would suggest returning the part before installing.

Based on prior experience with a new, high-quality battery going bad in less than 6 months, I would start there. Have a load test done on it, not just meter across the posts. Just sitting, the battery can show 14+ volts but drop significantly when exposed to a load like starting or all of the electronics in these cars. If the battery does test good, have the alternator checked for output. It's a process of elimination.

If you do decide to install the TB, you said you have to hook up HDS to remove the saved TPS location. Do you have access to the HDS? The car may not start without doing the reset.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, I have a Chinese HDS so that's no problem.

I hear you guys and will have a battery / alternator test done.

The dealer did say that the TB threw a code which they cleared.

It did not set the CEL.
 

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If the code is gone, then just drive the car. If it did not throw a CEL it cannot be that bad.
They are not giving you any details to go on "a code" is not evidence that there is a problem.

Is this a car stealership or aftermarket mech?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If the code is gone, then just drive the car. If it did not throw a CEL it cannot be that bad.
They are not giving you any details to go on "a code" is not evidence that there is a problem.

Is this a car stealership or aftermarket mech?
Acura Dealership. Their diagnosis is Throttle Body, Then Wiring Loom, Then PCM....

$-$$-$$$$$ ch-ching.
 
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