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Same issue here. Thanks everyone, mdxers.org never lets me down! I think I'll be able to follow along the written instructions, but if anyone can re-upload the pictures, it may help.

Part is on order! Looks like you guys have saved me $1,970 this time...if I ever run into any mdxers, beers are on me!
 

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Omg Thanks for this post! I opened my drivers sidedoor and pulled back cover to harness and sure enough a blue wire was broke off I touch it in the spot it came out and rolled up my back windows for now. Heading to get a new harness! ?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Your welcome!!
Just noticed the pics are broken here as well... I will try to fix it ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Since I cant edit my Original Post, I will Copy the original with the Fixed Pics.


Disclaimer: Copied and Pasted from my DIY @ Acurazine.

Hello Folks!

Special thanks to -jon- from mdxers.org for finding the solution!!


This is a small DIY on how to replace the Driver door sub-harness and what problems it can give if its damaged:

Symptom's (Incredible list for such a small cable):
1.- Door locks wont work
2.- DPMS wont work
3.- Rear view mirrors wont adjust or auto-tilt
4.- Power Tailgate wont open either by the FOB or Button in door
5.- Gas cap wont open
6.- Alarm wont engage
7.- Windows wont work
8.- Sunroof wont work

That is about all the problems that little bastard gave me.
Now how do we replace this little cable...

Models: MDX 2007-2009 (All Trims)

First of all you will need:
1.- Small flat screwdriver
2.- Flat screwdriver
3.- Part No: 32757-STX-A00

Total time to replace: Less than 5 minutes
Experience needed: None, Super Easy to Replace


Box the part comes in


So much problems for such little cable



Steps:

1.- First of all you will need to remove the sub-harness from the door, This part comes as a whole with the grommet so you will have to pop the grommet off and remove the cable from the door.


2.- Now you will have to remove the fuse plastic cover completely (This just pops in) to get to the inside connections..

First remove the door side molding (A) then remove the lower door guard (B) this just pops out with little force, Finally remove the fuse box cover (C) by popping it off too! It will have a small plastic screw attached in the back you can just move aside the cover no need to remove it completely.



3.- You only need to make enough room to see the sub harness connections in the fuse box


The cable will have a small retainer plastic tab connected to the fuse box, You can break this as the new cable comes with it.


To install the cable just use the connectors as guide through the chassis hole, This is basically the hardest part because space is tight.. What I did is put my fingers between the fuse box and chassis and pull one connector to guide the whole cable.. Once this is done just reverse procedure! and you are DONE!

This little cable made my whole "New MDX Experience" a nightmare and I cant believe this problem isn't wide-spread.

Now to dissect the old cable and see what went wrong



Hope it helps anyone, Any questions feel free to Ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
And here I thought It was going to take me an hour to diagnose each cable with the voltmeter.


The problem was right at the door plug....


Several cables just broke and some were starting to peel.


Seems like the cable is under heavy stress... Again why the hell this problem isn't wide spread?
 
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Thank you. Followed the procedure on my 2011 MDX and it worked like a charm. Everything good now. The tips about pushing in the emergency brake in and tying some twine to the old part before pulling it through to help with the fishing were great and also helped to get this done in such tight quarters. Many thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Your welcome man! I am glad it worked out for you.
 

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Thank You! I was able to follow the exact steps you mentioned and replaced the driver door harness cable on my 2009 MDX. In the process, I learned a thing or two as well. The harness connects to the receptacle in the door which in my case had 'dropped' inside the door frame and I had to pull it out and secure it back again. Be careful not to press on the harness too hard when connecting to the door receptacle otherwise it may drop inside the frame. I am sure that other folks with later models will also find your information helpful because the mechanism is mostly the same for model years till 2013 that I have seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Nice! congratulations on fixing it!
 

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Hey all...new to this forum but thank you so much...my windows and sunroof stopped working on my 2012 MDX, and sure enough, I replaced this cable and BAM, all is working again.

I do have one quick question....that space was really tight, and fishing in the new cable was a total PITA, and I wasn’t able to snap in that retaining clip. Everything else went back into place fine and I *think* it’s ok, but I figured I’d ask the experts here. ?

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks for this information, I am having the same problem. When replacing this harness do I need to disconnect the battery first? Also is there anything like a screw holding on the rubber grommet on the upper part where the wires go into the frame of the car? Or does that just pop off once you disconnect the two clips on the inside?
 

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Just did this today and it fixed multiple issues! Part cost $33 at my local Acura dealership. Thanks to the original poster and also the one that suggested tying a string to the original harness before removing, really helped alot!
 

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Thanks OP! Just replaced mine today. At first only my driver's window was affected, and I thought it might be something else like a fuse. But then a couple months later the rear passenger window stopped working as well, then the driver's mirror, left rear window, then the final straw was the right rear window stopped working right after I rolled it down and then it started raining! I used this thread to get to the wiring harness and after jiggling it around, I was able to close the window. Needless to say, I ordered the harness right away.

This should have been a 5-minute job, but of course because of the location, it was a PITA! I had my head in the foot well craning my neck to look up, and I still couldn't release the plastic retainer tab for fear of breaking the plastic frame it was mounted to. Then I removed the dash end cap and it was night and day, because then I could just look in through the side:


(How do I post a pic from Google Photos?)

Now that could clearly see what I was doing, I cut the retainer off with some shears. Routing the new harness through was also a lot easier. Hope this helps others.
 

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Excellent article and write up, thank you. I just replaced the cable on my wife's 2007 Acura MDX (which has been having some older car issues, like the battery drain issue, which turned out to be the a/c compressor/clutch relay, I think), and saved tons of money from taking it to the dealer. Like a few others have said, it's easy to push some twine through the hole, tie it to the connectors, and gently pull the assembly through the hole so that you don't risk breaking anything.

Pretty easy job, and all is well!
 

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Howdy MDXers!
This thread saved me some heartache. Not all, but some. I was able to find out why the door speaker wouldn't work. Unfortunately it's due to busted wires on the car side, not the door side!
Now what do I do?
 

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I was looking at my old sub-harness, and it looks like there might be only one wire that's broken. Seems a shame to throw out something that could potentially be easily fixed by someone with the means, so if anyone local to Toronto wants to try, you can have it.
 

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thanks op! Just replaced mine today. At first only my driver's window was affected, and i thought it might be something else like a fuse. But then a couple months later the rear passenger window stopped working as well, then the driver's mirror, left rear window, then the final straw was the right rear window stopped working right after i rolled it down and then it started raining! I used this thread to get to the wiring harness and after jiggling it around, i was able to close the window. Needless to say, i ordered the harness right away.

This should have been a 5-minute job, but of course because of the location, it was a pita! I had my head in the foot well craning my neck to look up, and i still couldn't release the plastic retainer tab for fear of breaking the plastic frame it was mounted to. Then i removed the dash end cap and it was night and day, because then i could just look in through the side:


(how do i post a pic from google photos?)

now that could clearly see what i was doing, i cut the retainer off with some shears. Routing the new harness through was also a lot easier. Hope this helps others.
IMG_1579.jpg

IMG_1580.jpg
 
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