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Discussion Starter #1
Disclaimer: Copied and Pasted from my DIY @ Acurazine.

Hello Folks!

Special thanks to -jon- from mdxers.org for finding the solution!!


This is a small DIY on how to replace the Driver door sub-harness and what problems it can give if its damaged:

Symptom's (Incredible list for such a small cable):
1.- Door locks wont work
2.- DPMS wont work
3.- Rear view mirrors wont adjust or auto-tilt
4.- Power Tailgate wont open either by the FOB or Button in door
5.- Gas cap wont open
6.- Alarm wont engage
7.- Windows wont work
8.- Sunroof wont work

That is about all the problems that little bastard gave me.
Now how do we replace this little cable...

Models: MDX 2007-2009 (All Trims)

First of all you will need:
1.- Small flat screwdriver
2.- Flat screwdriver
3.- Part No: 32757-STX-A00

Total time to replace: Less than 5 minutes
Experience needed: None, Super Easy to Replace


Box the part comes in


So much problems for such little cable



Steps:

1.- First of all you will need to remove the sub-harness from the door, This part comes as a whole with the grommet so you will have to pop the grommet off and remove the cable from the door.



2.- Now you will have to remove the fuse plastic cover completely (This just pops in) to get to the inside connections..

First remove the door side molding (A) then remove the lower door guard (B) this just pops out with little force, Finally remove the fuse box cover (C) by popping it off too! It will have a small plastic screw attached in the back you can just move aside the cover no need to remove it completely.



3.- You only need to make enough room to see the sub harness connections in the fuse box


The cable will have a small retainer plastic tab connected to the fuse box, You can break this as the new cable comes with it.


To install the cable just use the connectors as guide through the chassis hole, This is basically the hardest part because space is tight.. What I did is put my fingers between the fuse box and chassis and pull one connector to guide the whole cable.. Once this is done just reverse procedure! and you are DONE!

This little cable made my whole "New MDX Experience" a nightmare and I cant believe this problem isn't wide-spread.

Now to dissect the old cable and see what went wrong



Hope it helps anyone, Any questions feel free to Ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And here I thought It was going to take me an hour to diagnose each cable with the voltmeter.


The problem was right at the door plug....


Several cables just broke and some were starting to peel.


Seems like the cable is under heavy stress... Again why the hell this problem isn't wide spread?
 
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Congratulations. May I ask how to figure out that the problem is the driver side, not the passenger side, harness? Maybe a dumb question. Thanks.
 

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Nice write-up! Much better than mine. It really sucked trying to work in the footwell. I'm sure your back is nice and sore now :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Probably Because DPMS, Gas Cap, Tailgate and Full Window controls are in the drivers side? I just followed -jon- advise so I cannot be certain on how he pin-pointed the cable.

This issue also made my passenger lock button to not work so you could also think the passenger cable is bad but it isn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice write-up! Much better than mine. It really sucked trying to work in the footwell. I'm sure your back is nice and sore now :)
You are the Man, dude!
I am so happy that I don't have to crawl into the back seats to manually open my gas cap? It was so embarrassing every time I filled her up.

I actually didn't need to do anything more than to kneel outside the door and do all the work from there, My back is alright :29:

Thanks again man! I really appreciate it.
 

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You are the Man, dude!
I am so happy that I don't have to crawl into the back seats to manually open my gas cap? It was so embarrassing every time I filled her up.

I actually didn't need to do anything more than to kneel outside the door and do all the work from there, My back is alright :29:

Thanks again man! I really appreciate it.
No problem!

BTW, I see you're in San Diego. What area? My sister-in-law lives in Santee and my wife's parents live outside of Julian. We haven't been back in a while so we're overdue for a visit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I live in North Park just north of Balboa Park.. When you come give a heads up for your well earned beer, man.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks!
I am 6.1" and I didn't have an issue with just kneel outside the car to the job :D
 

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Nice Write up. I wish I had this 6 months ago. My mechanic found similar issues and even said this is common in hondas/acuras. He said these harnesses are too short and just break over time. He increased the wire length and re-pinned the connector. My rear windows and tailgate were not working.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The wire is anything but short, I think the main issue is where the retainer tab was installed it leaves about 2" of wire tucked between the chassis and fuse box and the remaining wire is tight... What I did is go back and remove it from the tab to leave the wire loose so it can be pulled when the door opens, It seemed to help to leave it loose.
 

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i have the same exact problem with the same symptoms
but it used to work only if i opened fully my driver door
and it used to make a clicking sound
i will order this cable and replace it
but thanks alot your post is really helpful
 

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Thanks George. I replaced the cable. Everything works!

What was wrong?

Rear passenger doors would not unlock
Driver window, rear windows would not open
Gas filler door would only open if car was running
Rear hatch would only open if car was running
Seat memory wasn't working.
No chirp when locking doors with key fob.

These were the things I new about. All are working now.
 

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I have an '07 MDX,yesterday the rear lifgate and fuel fill door wouldnt operate.Not sure if related but I noticed this after washing and trying to lift the rear to dry inside trim.
I've read-up on why one might need to replace the sub-door harness on drivers side but I am "only" experiencing these 2 not-working issues(the mirrors,seat memory,all locks and windows operate fine).
I checked the fuse in the rear(fuse 8,7.5A) and its good.
Suppose my questions are-

Anything else I can troubleshoot to solve fuel fill door and rear liftgate not working?
Also,excuse my ignorance-
I've seen the pics of the sub-door harness,the wiring has a gooey secretion on the connectors...my does also after checking.Is this a conductive product,something put on to help prevent rust,fire,sparks?

Thanks-
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have an '07 MDX,yesterday the rear lifgate and fuel fill door wouldnt operate.Not sure if related but I noticed this after washing and trying to lift the rear to dry inside trim.
I've read-up on why one might need to replace the sub-door harness on drivers side but I am "only" experiencing these 2 not-working issues(the mirrors,seat memory,all locks and windows operate fine).
I checked the fuse in the rear(fuse 8,7.5A) and its good.
Suppose my questions are-

Anything else I can troubleshoot to solve fuel fill door and rear liftgate not working?
Also,excuse my ignorance-
I've seen the pics of the sub-door harness,the wiring has a gooey secretion on the connectors...my does also after checking.Is this a conductive product,something put on to help prevent rust,fire,sparks?

Thanks-


YES! When I installed my LEDs in the Tailgate I accidently blowed a fuse on the Back Fuse Box.. I believe it was a 5 or 10A but it made my Gas Lid and Tailgate to not open! Check that before ordering the Sub Harness.

To open the Tailgate manually you will have to crawl through the rear seats and 3rd row and remove the tailgate emergency latch cover.

With the tailgate open you can now check the back fuse box more comfortably.
Look for a blown fuse in the rear fuse box one of those is the culprit if this is the problem. If all your fuses are fine then the Sub Harness might be the issue.

That goo is to prevent humidity from creating rust in the pins. Basically a sealer so the pins never corrode.
 

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As always Skirmich "Thanks for helping and sharing your knowledge".Its really so great you seem to always take the time to help.
Well,came home today and decided to check the liftgate and fuel fill door and they BOTH WORKED!!
Thinking some water got into to harness from the wash or pulling and re-installing the fuse in rear was the ticket(though I did that last night and it didnt work right after).

anyways,will certainly monitor especially after next wash(always hand wash,never drive thru).
Thanks again
 

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I've seen other posts about water getting into that rear fuse box. Seems like a somewhat common issue. Might find a way to keep water out if you look it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
^ Yeah several have pop off.. I'm glad it never rains here :D

Your welcome Jetblack07! I always try to help the best I can in the forums, they have helped me too in the past and in the present.
 

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I just finished this install! Thanks so much for the guidance. A couple of personal points from my experience. MDX 2007. 123k miles

1) The job took 30 minutes, and I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.
2) I disconnected the harnesses x 2 from the fuse box and wrapped a 2ft piece of twine around the longer connector/wire. After I snaked the old harness through the chassis hole, I transferred the twine to the new harness and used the twine to guide the reinstallation of the new harness.
3) The space is very tight, so I found that engaging and disengaging the parking brake pedal helped at various times to gain better access.
4) Unscrewing the fuse box molding from the floorboard helped alot to gain better access as well.
5) Reattaching the retaining clip on the new harness (to the frame) is very difficult, and I hope leaving it unattached won't cause a problem for the next 10 years.
6) I tested all circuits before reattaching the moulding. Honestly, there was "no better feeling" than to hear of the locks click open and closed when I pushed the driver door lock, remote mirror and tailgate switch! They all work!
 
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