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DIY: Replacing Brakes on 16 MDX-AWD/Tech

13K views 28 replies 14 participants last post by  fergy016 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,


have a few questions:
My brakes starting to get some noises and I'm wondering when do we replacing them? I got 23,000 Miles on it now.


Need new motor? ( it's not vibrating or anything yet, so maybe be not)
What kind of brake pads? What brand?
Should I buy them at Dealership or other stores?
Do I need anything else or just the brake pads only?


Thanks
 
#2 ·
"Need new motor"!

Shiiiiit! i hope you dont this early in the purchase. if so, you got a lemon.

but i think you meant rotors. i dont think you need to change them this early either.

it might just be there needs to be some anti-squeal lube on the back of the pads or one or more of the four brake pads are worn. you'll have to take the tire out and inspect each one. or use your ears to figure out which side is squeaking.

you can actually do the brakes yourself to save a good amount of money.

use the below information as a guide for inspecting the pads.
 

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#5 ·
"Need new motor"!

Shiiiiit! i hope you dont this early in the purchase. if so, you got a lemon.

but i think you meant rotors. i dont think you need to change them this early either.

it might just be there needs to be some anti-squeal lube on the back of the pads or one or more of the four brake pads are worn. you'll have to take the tire out and inspect each one. or use your ears to figure out which side is squeaking.

you can actually do the brakes yourself to save a good amount of money.

use the below information as a guide for inspecting the pads.
Opps, I meant Rotors NOT motors. Thanks
 
#3 ·
Just pull the wheels off and check the pads to see how much is left. You shouldn't be anywhere close to needing to replace them at this point unless you're one of those two footed drivers who rides the brake needlessly or had a stuck caliper or something. Squealing brakes doesn't mean they're worn and need to be replaced.

Anytime the brake pads are replaced the rotors should be resurfaced or replaced.

You may be able to buy the pads at an auto parts store but you can also just get them from the dealer and know they're likely the same as you currently have - although if yours are truly worn so early you might want something different.
 
#6 ·
Just pull the wheels off and check the pads to see how much is left. You shouldn't be anywhere close to needing to replace them at this point unless you're one of those two footed drivers who rides the brake needlessly or had a stuck caliper or something. Squealing brakes doesn't mean they're worn and need to be replaced.

Anytime the brake pads are replaced the rotors should be resurfaced or replaced.

You may be able to buy the pads at an auto parts store but you can also just get them from the dealer and know they're likely the same as you currently have - although if yours are truly worn so early you might want something different.
Thanks mdxstang
So do you think about how many miles should I replace the pads? just give me an estimate, so I know when to replace them.


I'll remove the tires and check on this weekend to see how many left on the pads. So you think any brake pads will do? or have to be some short of brands?


Thanks
 
#8 ·
iRobot:

As Elvis stated above and I stated - if you're concerned about the brakes you need to inspect them or have them inspected for wear. Some people drive in mountainous areas with the vehicle loaded frequently or they frequently tow a trailer and will likely wear through the pads much faster than someone just cruising freeways in flatter, less populated areas. Driving in LA all the time doing the stop and go constantly will be worse than driving around Montana, for example. And then there are some people who ride the brakes a lot or wait until the last minute on approaching a stoplight and then stomp on the brakes. Given the variability in the way people drive and how they use their vehicles it's not a 'one size fits all' answer that can be given.

However, I'd be very surprised if your brakes were excessively worn at this point. If you want to check them yourself all you need to do is take off the wheel and then look at how much pad material is left - check both inner and outer pads on the caliper and do this for all 4 wheels. Usually the fronts will wear faster than the rears on most vehicles.

I always check mine when I have the wheels off for any reason. I do my own tire rotation at the time I do the oil changes on this vehicle so that's roughly every 7500-8000 miles. The last time I checked mine, maybe at around 25K miles or so, there was plenty of wear left in them.

If you have the dealer change the oil and rotate the tires it seems they'd probably inspect the brakes or they can if you ask them to.

As far as which replacement pads to get - it does make a difference between manufacturers and offerings. The material the pad is made out of isn't identical between different offerings and there can be a difference in the manufacturing process. I'm not sure what I'll replace mine with but if I end up reasonably happy with the OEM pads in how they wear and perform I might just buy them from the dealer - (online to save some $$$). If not, I'll buy some from an auto parts store from a major manufacturer like Wagner, TRW, and the like.
 
#9 ·
I have a 2015 that is not driven hard and I took it in for a B1 at 20,000 miles. I complained about a clunk when you go from reverse to drive or from drive to reverse and move the car. I was told as the brakes wear down they are by design to have movement. My back brakes were in the watch stage and may need replacement soon. The front brakes are still in the good range but if I remember correctly they were about 1mm difference. I was told by my independent mechanic that the rotors on most cars today are pretty thin to help with weight and gas milage and they have to replace a lot of them at the brake change.
 
#12 ·
I am sincerely not surprised they are worn out... OEM Pads are CRAP if pushed hard.
I got my X on November last year, brake pads were good with about 90% pad life and they were all OEM (Multiple Backplates LOL).. 14K later right now they are squeaking and need replacing.. Its funny because when I changed my Axles (CVs) I saw the pads and they were like 2mm to hit the wear limit shim, Since I replaced the CVs now they are ON the limit shim (Squeaking all day long) Not even 500 miles since I replaced the CVs..

I am replacing them with EBC Brakes DP71801 "HD 7000 Green Stuff" .....
Stupid brake pads... We´ll see how the "SUV" Line from EBC performs for 130 bucks they better be good....
 
#17 ·
I'd say otherwise; I think the factory pads are more than adequate. However, I don't drive the MDX all that agressively and don't tow anything.


Aftermarket pads would most likely help, especially when undergoing repeated brake applications. But wouldn't changing to a set of more performance oriented tires have a bigger affect on increasing braking performance? I thought that tires, especially most OEM models from the factory, were almost always the weak link when it came to braking.
 
#18 ·
I don't drive aggressively or tow. The only thing I know is when I picked up my MDX, it took more foot pressure to stop it, compared to other cars I have owned. My wife picked up a RDX at the same time. When I drive that, it stops on a dime, with less foot pressure. The occasional times I drive the RDX, it takes a few brake applications for me to get used to how it stops. I like the way the RDX brakes work. You will find earlier posts about how some complained about the MDX brakes. The EBC brakes mentioned above say they will stop better, gentle on rotors, and less dust (compared to stock pads).
Tires will make a difference in performance driving and wet condition braking. For me the stock Continentals are just ok. Its the brake pads Im not too hot on.
 
#21 ·
Gotcha. I see it's more of a matter of personal taste, and I guess you prefer a bit more 'bite' in your brakes.


I haven't looked into the performance of the 7000 series EBC green pads. But those brakes better be as good as they claim to be; they almost cost twice as much as OEM.
 
#19 ·
56k going and probably 1/2 the pad left - lotsa highway, I tow, I travel off-road and I manage my speed with the right pedal instead of the left.

That said, the only way to gauge pad usage is to measure it (when cold!) use a micrometer or tire tread gauge (you can usually ask nicely at the dealer and they'll give you one) or even a free/$1 engineers scale at a Harbor Freight sale does the trick if you're worried you won't hear the pad squealers.

if all of that is too much for you - take your car to costco/big0/America's Tire and the like and they'll do an inspection for free and give you a printout of the millimeter depth left.
 
#20 ·
There you go! Checked and inspected for FREE instead of the Acura charges. I don't ride my brakes hard and have a Chevy Van with 60,000 miles on the original brakes and my MDX has 20,000 and at my 20,000 mile B1 they say brakes are real close to needing replaced. Interesting.
 
#22 ·
OEM Pads are bad with Brake Fade, Specially if you are a late braker (Don't ride the brakes into slowing down but brake at the last moment to ironically avoid brake fade) but if you are the kind that applies the brakes half a mile from a stop sign then brake fade is an issue at traffic.

OEM Pads simply aren't good against brake fade, And that its what I hope EBC Brakes eliminate... At least my last Yellow Stuffs in my TL-S didn't show a single sign of brake fade even while Touge´ing the crap out of it. So I expect the SUV Line of the Green Stuff makes a gigantic difference.

There are 2 versions of the Green Stuff
OEM Like Green Stuff - This is the OEM Line for DD.
7000 HD Green Stuff - This is the SUV Line for HD cars.

I want the 7000 HD Series.
 
#23 ·
I'm what one would call an 'aggressive driver', live in an area with lots of hills (like Skirmich), have driven in the mountains a fair amount, etc. and haven't noticed an issue with my brakes so far - on brake fade, stopping potential, grabbiness, and so far - wear. I don't ride brakes and learned to drive (decades ago) in a mountainous area (Colorado) in cars of the 60s (i.e. not so great brakes) so I know how to drive in mountains without overly riding brakes and heating them up too much which will cause fade and short wear life.

Simply switching to aftermarket brakes doesn't guarantee they'll be better suited for the vehicle. There are a lot of variables including driving style, application (i.e. SUV of a certain weight, brake design with rotor sizes, swept area, effectiveness of the rear brakes, etc.), terrain (flat vs hills/mountains), and others. Brakes that are better for one application, such as racing, wouldn't be good for another application, such as daily driving.

So far I've been satisfied with the OEM brakes. They seem to stop fine, pedal height/pressure is fine (this is a variable between almost any vehicles - one just needs to acclimate which usually only takes a minute or two), and haven't produced much dust at all. There's no guarantee an aftermarket wouldn't be worse on any of these points. Of course it could be better as well - it remains to be seen.

If 'skirmich' tries an aftermarket I look forward to the report on them here since I'll need to change the brakes at some point.

And for some of you - it's 'brakes' - not 'breaks'. I'm amazed by how many people spell it 'breaks'. It only breaks if the brakes break and fail to brake.
 
#26 ·
^^ Yellows should be over 200%.. They are Race Pads after all.

Last time I used the Yellow Stuff on my TL-S I swore never going back to those... Braking power is NECK BREAK AMAZING nothing comes close but WOW the dust they leave? it was like cleaning my wheels every single day, Then my poor poor rotors (EBC 3GD) was not ready for the wear the Yellow Stuffs produces and THEN they Mofos dont last long.. I eat through a set in less than 6 months and it was DD nothing really taxing them.

So in short.. Unless you want to feel the MAXIMUM Stopping power at the expense of LOADS of Dust, Wear and Hilarious Short Life-Span? Don´t even look at the Yellow Stuff.

I reckon the Red-Stuffs will be better but I want longevity more than Performance on the X, That´s why I'm leaning over the 7000 Series Green Stuff.
 
#27 ·
So from what you guys have been saying so far it seems like the biggest issue with the OEM pads is brake fade. I've never experienced it myself, but again, I don't drive the MDX in a way that gets the brakes super hot.


I still believe that tire type can significantly influence braking (even in normal conditions) and can just as easily be the weak link in determining stopping distances. My MDX is still wearing the factory tires, but in my other cars the braking felt different after changing tires. I haven't done it on the MDX yet, but in my other vehicles it seemed very easy for me to overcome the traction limits of the tires and get the ABS to engage during heavy braking.


Does anyone know what the OEM pad friction ratings are? My guess would be that they're FE, but I don't plan on taking a wheel off to go check. I know that Hondas haven't had the best reputation for brakes, but I'm not sure where Acura's brakes stand when put against their peers.


I'm also interested to see how some of the aftermarket pads (not only the EBC Greenstuff) perform and look forward to hearing feedback from other owners as they start changing out pads. I personally wouldn't need anything more agressive than OEM because I'd probably end up getting my passengers carsick :) . Now if I had to tow or if I moved to a more mountainous area, I'd definitely consider something with better performance.
 
#28 ·
^ I experience brake fade because right now outside its at 116°F.
So I don´t really have to do anything special to make the brakes reach +350°F..
If I really pushed the car with that much heat I will warp the rotors BEFORE I experience any brake fade :D

But since its that hot outside brake fade happens even when DD.. There is just too much heat an no way to dissipate it before I reach the next stop and so on. That is why the OEM Pads are so notorious with brake fade. If you live somewhere comfortably then they might just work alright and fade only when driving hard.
 
#29 ·
I just completed the rear pad/rotor replacement on my 2016 mdx sh-awd. The fronts are in spec and no service was needed. I found there are brake shoes inside the rotor the brake caliper attaches to. The shoes are for the parking brake.

1. Make sure parking brake is released
2. Remove Brake Caliper and pad bracket assembly
3. There is a retaining screw in the rotor that has to be removed
4. I used a couple M6 bolts to push the rotor away from the hub, there are two threaded holes to complete this on the rotor.
5. Once removed you will see the brake shoe assembly. At the top there is a cog gear that adjusts the parking brake. If the new rotor does fit, you might have to rotate the cog to collapse the brake shoes a little.
6. Install brake rotor and retaining screw
7. There is a peep hole to see the cog gear. It is the hole where the rubber plug belongs. Rotate the rotor so the hole is at the top and use a flat head screwdriver to rotate the cog to expand the brake shoe assembly. I rotated until I couldn't rotate the rotor and then backed it off two clicks.
8. Install brake pad assembly with newly loaded equipment
9. Install brake caliper
10. Install wheel and test e brake

I was quoted $500 for rear brake change and brake bleed. I was able to do it and used Autozone Duralast Gold pads and Duralast rotors for $130. It did take a few hours to complete, but for almost a $400 savings, it was a great learning experience. The pads came with a lifetime warranty as well, but I don't expect to have to replace the rear pads before replacing the vehicle.
 
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