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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,


have a few questions:
My brakes starting to get some noises and I'm wondering when do we replacing them? I got 23,000 Miles on it now.


Need new motor? ( it's not vibrating or anything yet, so maybe be not)
What kind of brake pads? What brand?
Should I buy them at Dealership or other stores?
Do I need anything else or just the brake pads only?


Thanks
 

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"Need new motor"!

Shiiiiit! i hope you dont this early in the purchase. if so, you got a lemon.

but i think you meant rotors. i dont think you need to change them this early either.

it might just be there needs to be some anti-squeal lube on the back of the pads or one or more of the four brake pads are worn. you'll have to take the tire out and inspect each one. or use your ears to figure out which side is squeaking.

you can actually do the brakes yourself to save a good amount of money.

use the below information as a guide for inspecting the pads.
 

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Just pull the wheels off and check the pads to see how much is left. You shouldn't be anywhere close to needing to replace them at this point unless you're one of those two footed drivers who rides the brake needlessly or had a stuck caliper or something. Squealing brakes doesn't mean they're worn and need to be replaced.

Anytime the brake pads are replaced the rotors should be resurfaced or replaced.

You may be able to buy the pads at an auto parts store but you can also just get them from the dealer and know they're likely the same as you currently have - although if yours are truly worn so early you might want something different.
 

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If you've ever done free floating brakes on any other car, it is an identical process. Remember to use jack stands!

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
"Need new motor"!

Shiiiiit! i hope you dont this early in the purchase. if so, you got a lemon.

but i think you meant rotors. i dont think you need to change them this early either.

it might just be there needs to be some anti-squeal lube on the back of the pads or one or more of the four brake pads are worn. you'll have to take the tire out and inspect each one. or use your ears to figure out which side is squeaking.

you can actually do the brakes yourself to save a good amount of money.

use the below information as a guide for inspecting the pads.
Opps, I meant Rotors NOT motors. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just pull the wheels off and check the pads to see how much is left. You shouldn't be anywhere close to needing to replace them at this point unless you're one of those two footed drivers who rides the brake needlessly or had a stuck caliper or something. Squealing brakes doesn't mean they're worn and need to be replaced.

Anytime the brake pads are replaced the rotors should be resurfaced or replaced.

You may be able to buy the pads at an auto parts store but you can also just get them from the dealer and know they're likely the same as you currently have - although if yours are truly worn so early you might want something different.
Thanks mdxstang
So do you think about how many miles should I replace the pads? just give me an estimate, so I know when to replace them.


I'll remove the tires and check on this weekend to see how many left on the pads. So you think any brake pads will do? or have to be some short of brands?


Thanks
 

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Thanks mdxstang
So do you think about how many miles should I replace the pads? just give me an estimate, so I know when to replace them.


I'll remove the tires and check on this weekend to see how many left on the pads. So you think any brake pads will do? or have to be some short of brands?


Thanks
I don't think you replace brakes based on mileage. Everyone drives differently. There our over 40,000 miles on ours. Check the wear.
 

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iRobot:

As Elvis stated above and I stated - if you're concerned about the brakes you need to inspect them or have them inspected for wear. Some people drive in mountainous areas with the vehicle loaded frequently or they frequently tow a trailer and will likely wear through the pads much faster than someone just cruising freeways in flatter, less populated areas. Driving in LA all the time doing the stop and go constantly will be worse than driving around Montana, for example. And then there are some people who ride the brakes a lot or wait until the last minute on approaching a stoplight and then stomp on the brakes. Given the variability in the way people drive and how they use their vehicles it's not a 'one size fits all' answer that can be given.

However, I'd be very surprised if your brakes were excessively worn at this point. If you want to check them yourself all you need to do is take off the wheel and then look at how much pad material is left - check both inner and outer pads on the caliper and do this for all 4 wheels. Usually the fronts will wear faster than the rears on most vehicles.

I always check mine when I have the wheels off for any reason. I do my own tire rotation at the time I do the oil changes on this vehicle so that's roughly every 7500-8000 miles. The last time I checked mine, maybe at around 25K miles or so, there was plenty of wear left in them.

If you have the dealer change the oil and rotate the tires it seems they'd probably inspect the brakes or they can if you ask them to.

As far as which replacement pads to get - it does make a difference between manufacturers and offerings. The material the pad is made out of isn't identical between different offerings and there can be a difference in the manufacturing process. I'm not sure what I'll replace mine with but if I end up reasonably happy with the OEM pads in how they wear and perform I might just buy them from the dealer - (online to save some $$$). If not, I'll buy some from an auto parts store from a major manufacturer like Wagner, TRW, and the like.
 

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I have a 2015 that is not driven hard and I took it in for a B1 at 20,000 miles. I complained about a clunk when you go from reverse to drive or from drive to reverse and move the car. I was told as the brakes wear down they are by design to have movement. My back brakes were in the watch stage and may need replacement soon. The front brakes are still in the good range but if I remember correctly they were about 1mm difference. I was told by my independent mechanic that the rotors on most cars today are pretty thin to help with weight and gas milage and they have to replace a lot of them at the brake change.
 

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So you think any brake pads will do? or have to be some short of brands?
Any pads that fit would work, but some pads work better with some rotors, and there are materials/styles/designs that are more suitable than others. Sorry, that all I know about it, but you should look into it, don't just grab one off the shelf.
 

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For brake pads, it's usually better to go with OEM pads (less likely for noise and dust). If you want to save money, buy brake pads on the internet and final an independent shop to install.
 

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I am sincerely not surprised they are worn out... OEM Pads are CRAP if pushed hard.
I got my X on November last year, brake pads were good with about 90% pad life and they were all OEM (Multiple Backplates LOL).. 14K later right now they are squeaking and need replacing.. Its funny because when I changed my Axles (CVs) I saw the pads and they were like 2mm to hit the wear limit shim, Since I replaced the CVs now they are ON the limit shim (Squeaking all day long) Not even 500 miles since I replaced the CVs..

I am replacing them with EBC Brakes DP71801 "HD 7000 Green Stuff" .....
Stupid brake pads... We´ll see how the "SUV" Line from EBC performs for 130 bucks they better be good....
 

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I don't think you replace brakes based on mileage. Everyone drives differently. There our over 40,000 miles on ours. Check the wear.
There are over 40,000 miles. I hate mistakes like that,and I did it.
 

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Let us know how the Greenstuff pads work. Im interested in getting the same ones. I don't like the factory pads. Weak stopping power.
 

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I'd say otherwise; I think the factory pads are more than adequate. However, I don't drive the MDX all that agressively and don't tow anything.


Aftermarket pads would most likely help, especially when undergoing repeated brake applications. But wouldn't changing to a set of more performance oriented tires have a bigger affect on increasing braking performance? I thought that tires, especially most OEM models from the factory, were almost always the weak link when it came to braking.
 

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I don't drive aggressively or tow. The only thing I know is when I picked up my MDX, it took more foot pressure to stop it, compared to other cars I have owned. My wife picked up a RDX at the same time. When I drive that, it stops on a dime, with less foot pressure. The occasional times I drive the RDX, it takes a few brake applications for me to get used to how it stops. I like the way the RDX brakes work. You will find earlier posts about how some complained about the MDX brakes. The EBC brakes mentioned above say they will stop better, gentle on rotors, and less dust (compared to stock pads).
Tires will make a difference in performance driving and wet condition braking. For me the stock Continentals are just ok. Its the brake pads Im not too hot on.
 

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56k going and probably 1/2 the pad left - lotsa highway, I tow, I travel off-road and I manage my speed with the right pedal instead of the left.

That said, the only way to gauge pad usage is to measure it (when cold!) use a micrometer or tire tread gauge (you can usually ask nicely at the dealer and they'll give you one) or even a free/$1 engineers scale at a Harbor Freight sale does the trick if you're worried you won't hear the pad squealers.

if all of that is too much for you - take your car to costco/big0/America's Tire and the like and they'll do an inspection for free and give you a printout of the millimeter depth left.
 

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56k going and probably 1/2 the pad left - lotsa highway, I tow, I travel off-road and I manage my speed with the right pedal instead of the left.

That said, the only way to gauge pad usage is to measure it (when cold!) use a micrometer or tire tread gauge (you can usually ask nicely at the dealer and they'll give you one) or even a free/$1 engineers scale at a Harbor Freight sale does the trick if you're worried you won't hear the pad squealers.

if all of that is too much for you - take your car to costco/big0/America's Tire and the like and they'll do an inspection for free and give you a printout of the millimeter depth left.
There you go! Checked and inspected for FREE instead of the Acura charges. I don't ride my brakes hard and have a Chevy Van with 60,000 miles on the original brakes and my MDX has 20,000 and at my 20,000 mile B1 they say brakes are real close to needing replaced. Interesting.
 
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