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skirmich did you pick the Denso 221-3237 (same I ordered) because it was the OEM brand, or new design that prevents the fluid mix, or reputation, or price ($150 vs $400 for acura part) ?
never heard of company (don't they make the OEM park plugs now that I recall) and haven't found who the radiator OEM really is.

looking at reviews (another model with 4.5 star like https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B0096BAUCM) there are a few comment on how bad they are built (very thin fins which mine has - bends just passing finger across) and scary comment as this is maintenance to prevent this exactly:
"Don’t buy this the price may be good but the quality is bad. I bought it and it ended up cracking on the inside and and causing the transmission fluid and cooling fluid to mix which damaged my whole transmission causing over 2000 dollars worth of damage. Amazon did not do anything and either did the manufacture it’s only been 8 months since I bought it. Don’t pay $50 to take a risk like that."

but then Acura online seems to be selling the Denso one as OEM...
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I ordered mine from Rock Auto which is 221-3237 because it is the only part number for Denso Aftermarket which has the new design.

As far as WHO is the OEM Supplier of the radiator? that will be DENSO but OEM Parts are different and carry their own (Acura/Honda) part number not Denso part numbers. Now I dont know if the OEM design has been updated because I dont plan on buying a 300dlls OEM Radiator to test it out, So unless somebody buys a brand new OEM Radiator we wont know if it has been updated which I could bet its still using the OG Design anyway.

And well I dont buy stuff according to the Amazon reviews, Its bad practice unless the rating is already something like 1 or 2 stars out of +100 reviews... You will always find bad reviews for pretty much anything and your aftermarket options are really limited to the point DENSO is the most expensive (Best known brand) you can get for the MDX aftermarket. Others include SPECTRA and CSF which are much MUCH cheaper. Since I did the ATF Warmer by-pass its impossible for me to get ATF/Coolant mixed, In the worst case scenario I will be stranded due to coolant leakage if it fails.

So those are your options... Go with Denso Aftermarket or Buy the 300dlls OG Radiator (19010-RYE-A52) if its in fact the OG Design you will spend 300dlls now and 300dlls again because it will fail again eventually...
 
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Discussion Starter #43
As for the fins being thinner this is irrelevant just be careful when installing, What you want to know is if the Aftermarket Radiator has the SAME or LESS amount of coolant passages and according to the Ridgeline Forums the DENSO Aftermarket is the only aftermarket radiator that has the same amount of coolant passages as OEM so it retains the same performance while being cheaper built (obviously)..
 
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Discussion Starter #44
One very important TIP though.. Way before you try to install it take it to a Radiator shop and PRESSURE TEST the radiator!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You dont want that sucker to leak after installation because its a PITA to install it...
This way you can make the guarantee valid before leaving you stranded without a car.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
It has been way over a year with the Aftermarket Denso with zero issues, No overheating or leaks (Knock on wood) by Jan 2020 it will be 2 years so Time will tell if the Aftermarket Denso will live up to the OEM Denso standard.
 
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One very important TIP though.. Way before you try to install it take it to a Radiator shop and PRESSURE TEST the radiator!
Yeah neighbor had a radiator pressure gauge and I was able to set 16psi and spray soapy water over the damaged area with no air leak. It was hard to plug the in/out with rubber stopper as they would start leaking around 17+psi or is pressured long enough... so finger crossed it's OK shape (and 1/4th the cost). Will like replace both hoses (gator $10 on amazon), and thermostat (OEM $10 on ebay) and maybe temp sensor so I don't have to go in there ever again :)
Funny thing is I had someone do the timing/waterPump recently and I did the intake manifold/EGR valve cleaning recently, so a some of the pieces were out around the thermostat, but I will get back in there...

It has been way over a year with the Aftermarket Denso with zero issues
Do you think removing the ATF hoses to do the bypass might have accelerated you needing to replace the rusty cooler ? I would think if already fatigued it wouldn't help...
that's why I'm thinking of just replacing for preventive work.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Ironically I replaced my radiator not because of the ATF/Coolant mix thing.. My OG radiator failed at the cooling fins and leaked coolant when the engine was hot.

So in high weather states I dont think is as much of an issue? but in high humidity cold weather specially weather with ice is a must because it will rust the Belleville Washer.
 

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I preventatively replaced mine yesterday. ...I chose to remove the front bumper (super easy) as well as both headlights
Whole thing took just under 3 hours. Most time was spent dealing with hose clamps.
whoa, so I decided to try yesterday - preventive as well. Don't know how you can do this in 3h! took me almost 2 just to get headlight detached (side screw especially on driver side is impossible and had to take the black bumper supporting support off). Now that I have coolant and tranny drainned and all parts out of the way out, I can see how you might be able to slide radiator with fans still attached even on driver side...

But the hoses, especially bottom coolant (clamps facing down) and half of the tranny small hose look so hard to reach, I'm ready to give up... even if I leave the hard lines attached still have all those hose lines. Yike!

I looked at the tranny <-> radiator connection and while there is some rust on the "washer" some parts are not, so guessing it's not in a very bad shape and maybe I'll get many mores years out. My only worry is loosing transmission if they mix and stranded on a long drive to the mountain...
 

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whoa, so I decided to try yesterday - preventive as well. Don't know how you can do this in 3h! took me almost 2 just to get headlight detached (side screw especially on driver side is impossible and had to take the black bumper supporting support off). Now that I have coolant and tranny drainned and all parts out of the way out, I can see how you might be able to slide radiator with fans still attached even on driver side...

But the hoses, especially bottom coolant (clamps facing down) and half of the tranny small hose look so hard to reach, I'm ready to give up... even if I leave the hard lines attached still have all those hose lines. Yike!

I looked at the tranny <-> radiator connection and while there is some rust on the "washer" some parts are not, so guessing it's not in a very bad shape and maybe I'll get many mores years out. My only worry is loosing transmission if they mix and stranded on a long drive to the mountain...
He probably had a lift. I spent a huge amount of time as well. However, if I had a lift and I need to rush, I can finish it in 3 or 4 hours as well the 2nd time.
 

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well I did it (preventive, not a lot of rust really but 07 MDX with 120k)... I would recommend investing in a few tools specifically for removing hose clamps as those are a pain in the butt and very hard to reach. as Kiwi recommended I removed the fender (easy) and hang the light (driver side side bolt is very hard to get to and will require more paneling support to be removed). I also pretty much removed the ATF separate cooler as I wasn't sure if un-clamping the 2 hoses there was gonna be easier than the back side connection (which I did). then there is plenty of room to slide the radiator with fans+hard lines+sensor still connected making it much easier to swap the parts over to new rad.

took better part of a weekend. Would be faster now that I know, but not planning on ever doing it again!
113768
 

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Q: what is normal temp for engine ? I get slightly over 1/3 of the gauge (before and after radiator swap) and don't get fans to kick in unless I turn on AC, even when idling for many minutes, or taking a short drive. Takes a min or 2 to get there. wondering if thermostat is stuck open maybe ? I didn't replaced as it looks like you need to take throttle body to access which I had off when cleaning the intake/EGR a while back. I replaced in/out main hoses (gates brand) but old ones where just as stiff.... oh well. done.
 

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12.- Another step that I simply could not picture and its in fact the hardest of them all, I will try my absolute best to describe this but its a little bit complicated.
A) Tilt the radiator as far as it will go to the front (It will stop when the condenser ends hit the headlights)
B) Grab the driver fan and pull it up so it falls out of the radiator base holes, you can now push the fan closer to the engine allowing the passenger fan to be sandwiched between the driver fan and radiator.
C) Grab the passenger fan now that is sandwiched between the driver fan and radiator and pull it through the space that was freed when you removed the hood latch, If needed pull the radiator up a little bit the fan should come out.
D) Now that the passenger fan is out you cannot remove the driver fan unless you remove the radiator.. In order to do this you will put the driver fan near the front engine mount this will allow you to finally remove the lower radiator Hose if you haven´t already.
E) This part is specially hard if you don´t have a helper. You will need to pull the radiator straight up while also moving the driver fan out of the way of the ATF warmer tubes, This is extremely cumbersome take your time and have lots of patience!
Skirmich,
Based on what you had done on this step. Do you think the front engine mount can be easily removed just by having the passenger fan removed? Or both fans have to be removed in order for the front engine mount to come out? Does the passenger fan came out easier than the driver fan?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Skirmich,
Based on what you had done on this step. Do you think the front engine mount can be easily removed just by having the passenger fan removed? Or both fans have to be removed in order for the front engine mount to come out? Does the passenger fan came out easier than the driver fan?

YES! You only need to remove 1 fan to do the front mount, This will allow it to be pulled without removing the battery base.
 

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YES! You only need to remove 1 fan to do the front mount, This will allow it to be pulled without removing the battery base.
Thank. After looking at my car the passenger fan needs to slide to the driver side and
half-way sandwiches between the driver fan and the radiator exactly as you had described which is a lot of work to accomplish this task.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Yeah that is the issue.. Stupid 2G MDX was designed by AUDI Engineers or something... My TL-S is not that hard to work on.
 
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