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what's the average life of the 2nd gen radiators? My car has about 92k miles on it, so it's close to the 105k maintenance, so should I do anything with radiator when doing 105k service?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The problematic years for the ATF warmer failure seems to be only the Early 2G (2007-2009) if you got a +2010 there doesn´t seem to be any issues in those years.
If you got an early 2G then you should consider replacing the rad to avoid losing a transmission.
 

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Searched around for the cooling system OEM parts

Thermostat 19301P8EA10, ebay price is about $40
Radiator Cap: 19045-RAA-003, $18
Upper hose: 19501RYEA00, $22
Lower hose: 19502RYEA00, $22

For the hoses, I have no problem with Gates hoses and save about $12 each. For the thermostat and radiator cap, what is the common wisdom on aftermarket parts? The common brands are Gates, MotorRad and Stant. They make all kind of thermostats and caps for various car brands. Are they good enough to replace OEM parts?

The cost is not even in the same neighborhood. Aftermarket radiator caps are about $4-$5 each on RockAuto. Thermostat is about $12-$18. One of them is even made by Aisin, how do they compare?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
1.- Use Gates for the Hoses they are pretty good.

2.- Use OEM T-Stat ONLY!!!! Do not use aftermarket for it.

3.- Radiator cap, I would use OEM too. Might be expensive for what it is but you must also take into consideration how long it will last.
 

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1.- Use Gates for the Hoses they are pretty good.

2.- Use OEM T-Stat ONLY!!!! Do not use aftermarket for it.

3.- Radiator cap, I would use OEM too. Might be expensive for what it is but you must also take into consideration how long it will last.
Since Aisin timing belt kit is highly recommended, I thought Aisin is trust worthy. Why suddenly its thermostat is suspicious? The cap is easy to replace, maybe that can wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Becuase we dont know who makes the OEM T-Stat as compared to the Timing Belt Kit.. Also hondas are very nitpicky with T-Stats so do not gamble it.
 

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Hi I am just curious how the adjustment marks for the hood latch work? I plan to use a Sharpie to mark the outside of the latch clearly. So I can do it right. But I am interested to know how the adjustment marks work. Why did not Honda design it so that the single notch on the latch will align to one of the three notches on the frame? I guess the way the adjustment marks/notches are designed does not make sense to me. I am pretty sure that I am missing something here. Any help would be great.
 

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A few more questions.

1. Will it make things easier if you remove (ATF warmer bracket in front of the condenser) and the (hard line ATF tube near the bottom)?
2. How big of a difference will it make to remove front bumper and headlight? It seems that the limiting factor is that condenser cannot be moved forward enough to yield space for fan/rad. If headlights are out, how far can the condenser go? Any other obstacles will prevent condenser continue to rotate outward?
3. Why the driver side fan is so hard to come out? What makes it so different from passenger side fan?

I hope I can spend more time on it by removing more stuff, but making the hardest job a lot/bit easier. Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi I am just curious how the adjustment marks for the hood latch work? I plan to use a Sharpie to mark the outside of the latch clearly. So I can do it right. But I am interested to know how the adjustment marks work. Why did not Honda design it so that the single notch on the latch will align to one of the three notches on the frame? I guess the way the adjustment marks/notches are designed does not make sense to me. I am pretty sure that I am missing something here. Any help would be great.
I do not know the answer for that, There is no guide marks in the hood latch assembly either I guess they use a special tool to align it.
Using the method I used yielded good results I had no issues with the hood ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
A few more questions.

1. Will it make things easier if you remove (ATF warmer bracket in front of the condenser) and the (hard line ATF tube near the bottom)?
2. How big of a difference will it make to remove front bumper and headlight? It seems that the limiting factor is that condenser cannot be moved forward enough to yield space for fan/rad. If headlights are out, how far can the condenser go? Any other obstacles will prevent condenser continue to rotate outward?
3. Why the driver side fan is so hard to come out? What makes it so different from passenger side fan?

I hope I can spend more time on it by removing more stuff, but making the hardest job a lot/bit easier. Make sense?

1.- I guess you could if you remove the bumper but with the bumper on there is no way to reach the bolts holding the ATF Cooler near the passenger headlight. As for the hard lines in the bottom there is nothing that will help you there as the condenser is the limiting factor of how much you can tilt the radiator to remove it or the fans.. You cannot undo the condenser without removing the A/C lines that are your limiting factor there.

2.- I made my mind several times on how much removing the bumper will actually help here? but the real issue always come down to the condenser…. It will make your life miserable as the condenser is LOCKED in place by the A/C lines it can only move so much before the A/C lines limit the tilt or how much you can pull it to the front of the car. Removing the bumper will not help here as the condenser is sitting in the CHASSIS of the car not anywhere near something that will move if you remove the bumper.. Removing the headlights will allow the condenser to tilt a little bit further but adding the time of removing the bumper and headlights its really not worth it IMHO, If you have the time then go for it but I did this guide without removing the bumper or headlights and its already complicated enough.

3.- Size and shape of the fan shroud, The passenger fan is slimmer/narrower? than the driver fan just enough to allow it to slip between the radiator and upper chassis frame of the car, I tried a lot of times to remove it like I did the passenger to no avail… So I worked my way around by simply pushing it as far to the engine as possible... This allowed the radiator to go out and simply moved the fan out of the way of the ATF warmer hard tubes coming out of the radiator...

As you can see this is why I think this is the most absurdly and overcomplicated radiator replacement ever made in an Acura/Honda product is simply too elaborated for what it is.. And the Factory Service manual is no help here, I downloaded that sucker and it made no actual sense (Like the AT Safety Switch Procedure), They wanted you to remove the fans from the engine bay which is basically impossible with the radiator in place, I will pay an Acura tech some money to watch him remove the fans from the engine bay according to the Factory Manual any day of the year.
 

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We got an Acura tech here. Hi Bluepill, if by any chance you see this thread, can you tell us what is the easiest way to get this done? Thanks.

1.- I guess you could if you remove the bumper but with the bumper on there is no way to reach the bolts holding the ATF Cooler near the passenger headlight. As for the hard lines in the bottom there is nothing that will help you there as the condenser is the limiting factor of how much you can tilt the radiator to remove it or the fans.. You cannot undo the condenser without removing the A/C lines that are your limiting factor there.

2.- I made my mind several times on how much removing the bumper will actually help here? but the real issue always come down to the condenser…. It will make your life miserable as the condenser is LOCKED in place by the A/C lines it can only move so much before the A/C lines limit the tilt or how much you can pull it to the front of the car. Removing the bumper will not help here as the condenser is sitting in the CHASSIS of the car not anywhere near something that will move if you remove the bumper.. Removing the headlights will allow the condenser to tilt a little bit further but adding the time of removing the bumper and headlights its really not worth it IMHO, If you have the time then go for it but I did this guide without removing the bumper or headlights and its already complicated enough.

3.- Size and shape of the fan shroud, The passenger fan is slimmer/narrower? than the driver fan just enough to allow it to slip between the radiator and upper chassis frame of the car, I tried a lot of times to remove it like I did the passenger to no avail… So I worked my way around by simply pushing it as far to the engine as possible... This allowed the radiator to go out and simply moved the fan out of the way of the ATF warmer hard tubes coming out of the radiator...

As you can see this is why I think this is the most absurdly and overcomplicated radiator replacement ever made in an Acura/Honda product is simply too elaborated for what it is.. And the Factory Service manual is no help here, I downloaded that sucker and it made no actual sense (Like the AT Safety Switch Procedure), They wanted you to remove the fans from the engine bay which is basically impossible with the radiator in place, I will pay an Acura tech some money to watch him remove the fans from the engine bay according to the Factory Manual any day of the year.
 

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I retired 10 years ago and this is all I remember:

(I'm 75. That's my story and I'm sticking to it)

The radiator R&R on the second gen Integra is the worst that I ever had to do. If I could find out who at the factory signed off on that design, he would be dead.

Any engine work or under dash work on the Vigor/2.5 TL was just as tight. Same as above.

(Sorta an April Fools post)



Now serious stuff. I never did a Gen 2 MDX because I retried in 2008, so no problems at that time. I did do my own Gen 1 in 2011 and recall that everything was quite tight.

As Skirmich says, the fans have to come out with the rad.

Watch out for the A/C compressor wire on the passenger side of the radiator - it is usually clipped to the the rad. mounting flange. Sometimes misc. relays are also attached to the flanges on either side.

Removing the hoses can be a pain, so changing them at the same time means you can just cut them off at the rad. side and only have to deal with the engine side.

When working on my own vehicles, I prefer to remove the bumper cover to get a complete visual.

This may help (no instructions for MDX, but probably close):

https://www.blueox.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/BX2251.pdf

Good luck. Don't get too frustrated. :)
 

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I retired 10 years ago and this is all I remember:

(I'm 75. That's my story and I'm sticking to it)

The radiator R&R on the second gen Integra is the worst that I ever had to do. If I could find out who at the factory signed off on that design, he would be dead.

Any engine work or under dash work on the Vigor/2.5 TL was just as tight. Same as above.

(Sorta an April Fools post)



Now serious stuff. I never did a Gen 2 MDX because I retried in 2008, so no problems at that time. I did do my own Gen 1 in 2011 and recall that everything was quite tight.

As Skirmich says, the fans have to come out with the rad.

Watch out for the A/C compressor wire on the passenger side of the radiator - it is usually clipped to the the rad. mounting flange. Sometimes misc. relays are also attached to the flanges on either side.

Removing the hoses can be a pain, so changing them at the same time means you can just cut them off at the rad. side and only have to deal with the engine side.

When working on my own vehicles, I prefer to remove the bumper cover to get a complete visual.
Thanks for the help!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Here is a very good video on how to access the headlight assembly to do something more complicated than changing the bulb. Here you can see that the additional work to get bumper out is only 2 screws on each side and one pull. Then 5 more screws on each side to get the headlight assembly out. My bulbs are still factory bulbs and they are getting dimmer. Seems a good opportunity to kill two birds with one stone.

One benefit is that there is no need to undo the bottom clips to remove the grille completely.
 

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This is the best video on different parts of the headlight system and how to remove the headlight to change out the bulb. When you are replacing the radiator for repair or preventive maintenance like I do, it is a no brainer to replace the bulbs if you are still using the decade old factory bulbs.
 
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I preventatively replaced mine yesterday. I live in eastern Canada and I am exposed to alot of rust and corrosion.

I chose to remove the front bumper (super easy) as well as both headlights ( no need to unplug the bulbs, just unbolt and rotate and allowed them to "hang" out of the way).

This allowed me to remove the radiator with the fans still attached, as well as the metal transmission piping. This worked out very well since all the bolts holding the radiator fans were so corroded they all broke.

Besides this one deviation from the guide, it's very good and I was well prepared.

Whole thing took just under 3 hours. Most time was spent dealing with hose clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
This allowed me to remove the radiator with the fans still attached

How though? even with the bumper removed there is no way you can pull the condenser far enough to clear the upper chassis frame in order to pull the radiator + fans combo.
 

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The condenser will hit the inside portions of the headlights. Once the headlights are removed, there is enough clearance to get the rad out with the fans attached.

i recommend this to anyone who lives in rust prone areas (Canadian atlantic coast)
 

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I preventatively replaced mine yesterday...Whole thing took just under 3 hours. Most time was spent dealing with hose clamps.
thanks for the update (taking bumper+headlight), I just ordered one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J316SE and plan on doing for preventative as well. Don't think I have much rust.. will see.
would doing the ATF warmup bypass still make sense or have they fixed the issue ? things will always rust, so something that can be added to protect ?
 
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