Since Aisin timing belt kit is highly recommended, I thought Aisin is trust worthy. Why suddenly its thermostat is suspicious? The cap is easy to replace, maybe that can wait.1.- Use Gates for the Hoses they are pretty good.
2.- Use OEM T-Stat ONLY!!!! Do not use aftermarket for it.
3.- Radiator cap, I would use OEM too. Might be expensive for what it is but you must also take into consideration how long it will last.
I do not know the answer for that, There is no guide marks in the hood latch assembly either I guess they use a special tool to align it.Hi I am just curious how the adjustment marks for the hood latch work? I plan to use a Sharpie to mark the outside of the latch clearly. So I can do it right. But I am interested to know how the adjustment marks work. Why did not Honda design it so that the single notch on the latch will align to one of the three notches on the frame? I guess the way the adjustment marks/notches are designed does not make sense to me. I am pretty sure that I am missing something here. Any help would be great.
A few more questions.
1. Will it make things easier if you remove (ATF warmer bracket in front of the condenser) and the (hard line ATF tube near the bottom)?
2. How big of a difference will it make to remove front bumper and headlight? It seems that the limiting factor is that condenser cannot be moved forward enough to yield space for fan/rad. If headlights are out, how far can the condenser go? Any other obstacles will prevent condenser continue to rotate outward?
3. Why the driver side fan is so hard to come out? What makes it so different from passenger side fan?
I hope I can spend more time on it by removing more stuff, but making the hardest job a lot/bit easier. Make sense?
1.- I guess you could if you remove the bumper but with the bumper on there is no way to reach the bolts holding the ATF Cooler near the passenger headlight. As for the hard lines in the bottom there is nothing that will help you there as the condenser is the limiting factor of how much you can tilt the radiator to remove it or the fans.. You cannot undo the condenser without removing the A/C lines that are your limiting factor there.
2.- I made my mind several times on how much removing the bumper will actually help here? but the real issue always come down to the condenser…. It will make your life miserable as the condenser is LOCKED in place by the A/C lines it can only move so much before the A/C lines limit the tilt or how much you can pull it to the front of the car. Removing the bumper will not help here as the condenser is sitting in the CHASSIS of the car not anywhere near something that will move if you remove the bumper.. Removing the headlights will allow the condenser to tilt a little bit further but adding the time of removing the bumper and headlights its really not worth it IMHO, If you have the time then go for it but I did this guide without removing the bumper or headlights and its already complicated enough.
3.- Size and shape of the fan shroud, The passenger fan is slimmer/narrower? than the driver fan just enough to allow it to slip between the radiator and upper chassis frame of the car, I tried a lot of times to remove it like I did the passenger to no avail… So I worked my way around by simply pushing it as far to the engine as possible... This allowed the radiator to go out and simply moved the fan out of the way of the ATF warmer hard tubes coming out of the radiator...
As you can see this is why I think this is the most absurdly and overcomplicated radiator replacement ever made in an Acura/Honda product is simply too elaborated for what it is.. And the Factory Service manual is no help here, I downloaded that sucker and it made no actual sense (Like the AT Safety Switch Procedure), They wanted you to remove the fans from the engine bay which is basically impossible with the radiator in place, I will pay an Acura tech some money to watch him remove the fans from the engine bay according to the Factory Manual any day of the year.
Thanks for the help!I retired 10 years ago and this is all I remember:
(I'm 75. That's my story and I'm sticking to it)
The radiator R&R on the second gen Integra is the worst that I ever had to do. If I could find out who at the factory signed off on that design, he would be dead.
Any engine work or under dash work on the Vigor/2.5 TL was just as tight. Same as above.
(Sorta an April Fools post)
Now serious stuff. I never did a Gen 2 MDX because I retried in 2008, so no problems at that time. I did do my own Gen 1 in 2011 and recall that everything was quite tight.
As Skirmich says, the fans have to come out with the rad.
Watch out for the A/C compressor wire on the passenger side of the radiator - it is usually clipped to the the rad. mounting flange. Sometimes misc. relays are also attached to the flanges on either side.
Removing the hoses can be a pain, so changing them at the same time means you can just cut them off at the rad. side and only have to deal with the engine side.
When working on my own vehicles, I prefer to remove the bumper cover to get a complete visual.
thanks for the update (taking bumper+headlight), I just ordered one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J316SE and plan on doing for preventative as well. Don't think I have much rust.. will see.I preventatively replaced mine yesterday...Whole thing took just under 3 hours. Most time was spent dealing with hose clamps.