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You cant and you don't need to.. Flushing the block will remove most of the A/F in the block and behind the thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The step mention to "Make sure the thermostat is open"
How do I open the thermostat? Picture would be nice
Thank you
You're referring to Step 7 when you're re-filling the system with new coolant. You can't visually see that it is open, but if you follow the procedure (the radiator fan comes on twice) then the thermostat will be open as you move into steps 8+. All this means is that the engine is getting warm enough to allow coolant to flow through the entire system. If you're trying to do this in really cold weather it will take a while so best to do with relatively warm temperatures if possible.
 

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You're referring to Step 7 when you're re-filling the system with new coolant. You can't visually see that it is open, but if you follow the procedure (the radiator fan comes on twice) then the thermostat will be open as you move into steps 8+. All this means is that the engine is getting warm enough to allow coolant to flow through the entire system. If you're trying to do this in really cold weather it will take a while so best to do with relatively warm temperatures if possible.
I'm planning to do it tonight, and where I live is about 50 degree F. Is that the temperature that the thermostat will open when I run the car with the new coolant?
Just wanted to make sure that I don't mess anything up with the thermostat.
And to confirm again, I don't need to do anything to the thermostat as it will open once the car is running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
50 degrees should be fine, will just take a bit longer for engine to get warmed up when you're refilling, but shouldn't be a big deal. Don't worry about the thermostat, it will do what it needs to do automatically, just follow the steps in the DIY.
 

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50 degrees should be fine, will just take a bit longer for engine to get warmed up when you're refilling, but shouldn't be a big deal. Don't worry about the thermostat, it will do what it needs to do automatically, just follow the steps in the DIY.
delirium
do you suggest I should flush with distilled water before put in the new coolant?
Or should I just do drain and fill? My vehicle is 2011 and at 44k miles.
 

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The block has hardly around 2L on it after you drain the radiator.. Remember that the coolant capacity also takes into consideration the coolant in the A/C Heater system.
 

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When warming up the car, should transmission in P or N? N should be better, right?
 

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Why it should make a difference? the Coolant is always flowing regardless transmission gear.
Service Manual just calls to start the engine not to engage any specific gear.
 

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In P, the torque convert would spin. Some of the heat goes to transmission. So I guess N should be better.
 

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When the engine is started the torque converter is always spinning regardless of gear, I think what you meant is that in Neutral the Turbine is free-spinning and not creating a drag.

But none of this is essential to burp the engine..
In any case you want it to heat up as the T-Stat must open in order to fully burp the air out of the block, The longest it takes to heat up? the longer the procedure.
 

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yes. you are correct. i was not thinking very carefully. if no drag, all the heat goes to engine. heat up faster.
 

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In my experience it takes an unholy amount of time for the ATF to heat up at idle when starting cold...
I did all the burp in mine and both ATF Coolers were not even warm to the touch when I ended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Trying this, not much came out of the block..why?
Don't know what you mean by "not much" but per skirmich earlier post, there isn't much there in the block when you drain. He said 2L and while I haven't done this in a year or two, feels like even less than 2L. That's just a feeling though. :smile2:

Just make sure you have the valve open enough to allow the fluid to flow out... and make sure you let it go for awhile. I think I let it sit for ~30 min. while I tidy up other areas and get ready to put in the fresh stuff.
 

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I'm about to do my 3rd gen. 2014. I have 112,000 miles and am considering doing a flush with distilled water. I was also going to add some prestone flush and cleaner. Is this ok to do? Is this just overkill?
 

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I'm about to do my 3rd gen. 2014. I have 112,000 miles and am considering doing a flush with distilled water. I was also going to add some prestone flush and cleaner. Is this ok to do? Is this just overkill?
No need for any of those snake oil products/flushes.

If you want to cycle through some distilled water, then that is okay -- although it shouldn't be necessary.

A normal drain + fill with Honda/Acura Type II coolant is all you really need.
 
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Many thanks for posting such detailed instructions for changing coolant/antifreeze in an MDX. It's very helpful. One question: If the coolant in a new MDX has not been changed for about 30,000 miles do you recommend radiator flush type cleaner to flush the radiator clean before putting in new coolant/antifreeze. Thanks, again for your post.
 
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