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one thing to keep in mind when changing coolant is to keep pets (especially dogs) away and to drain the coolant into a sealed container as soon as possible when you'ree finished draining

Glycol-based coolant tastes sweet so dogs will drink it and it will kill them
 

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Thanks a lot, Delirium :29: for this excellent write up with pictures. I did this yesterday by having printed this instructions, and it was an interesting DIY.
For others, I highly recommend to remove the splash guard OFF, atleast you can wash the splash guard inside out, but otherwise, it will be PITA to open the butterfly valve open, because the butterfly is located in a semicircle notch and very hard to reach and open.
I first opened the engine block drain plug, put a hose into a drain jar, then removed the butterfly, just to make sure I can replace most of the coolant.
The one and only way, I can access the engine block drain plug was lying across the wheels, head near passenger wheel, and legs facing driver side wheels. As the wheels are turned to the maximum left, you will find the space where you can put your hand and easily reach the drain plug, remove, put a hose etc. I did not jack up the wheels or ramps.
 

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Thanks for the DIY! One thing I did was use the rubber hose inside the coolant reservoir when draining the engine since I didn't have any extra hoses laying around. Also I had the front passenger side jacked up and the front tire off since I was also rotating the tires. Just made things a lot easier with tire off.
 

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delerium300, Thanks for the write up. It really helped me today, and since I had the old green stuff in our MDX, I washed it out before adding the new. Thanks again for the step by step instructions. .
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·

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These clips are used all over honda/acura cars. I bought a bag of 100 from ebay and have been set. They tend to break after a few years when removing bc the plastic dries out
 

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These clips are used all over honda/acura cars. I bought a bag of 100 from ebay and have been set. They tend to break after a few years when removing bc the plastic dries out
x2. They are really cheap too. I did this when I took off my front bumper.
 

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Excellent post and thank you for the details provided. I have subscribed to this thread and will be following the details provided.
Thank you!
 

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I bought those push pin pliers few years ago, awesome if you own honda products. Now that my Acura is getting older, 100k miles, the pins break regardless. There were 2 different sizes on that splash shield that needs to get out of the way to do the coolant change, plus easier to hose out the engine bay when done before reinstalling incase you spill any coolant. Ended up getting the plugs from the stealership. I need to find bulk bag of plugs to throw in my tool box like mentioned above so I don't have to deal with it anymore. I pull the one splash shield down every other oil change to drain and fill the MDX trans without making a mess and it has those plugs as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
For some reason I couldn't edit the original post, but just completed this job again on another MDX and wanted to update this with a few tips. If a moderator sees this and can allow me to edit the original post it may add value to put these tips there since the thread has gotten so much traffic.

Tip 1: Step 1 - It is not required to remove the lower splash guard. You can get your hard on the radiator’s butterfly petcock thing without removing it. There is also a set of holes for the coolant to drain into from there. DO NOT remove the petcock entirely or coolant will POUR out all over the place, only loosen it enough for it to drain through the holes underneath it. Be patient and let is drain slowly.

Tip 2: Step 4 – I forgot how tough this step is. I recommend a 5/8 clear vinyl tube (for flexibility) cut at roughly 5 feet length from Home Depot or Lowes. Wide enough to get around the drain plug, but it is very tricky to loosen that plug and position the hose without making a mess. Try and loosen enough to get it to drain, but be satisfied if it is just a slow drain (if you risk opening up too much you may get a coolant shower). If you’re really wanting to make sure it doesn’t get everywhere, you can take the wheel off for a lot more room.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
Tip 3: Step 7 - It really helps to have a 2<SUP>nd</SUP> helper for steps 7+. One person manages the RPMs and heat/air inside the car and the other person manages the towels and radiator overflow. Before the thermostat opens up throughout these steps, coolant WILL overflow and that is okay. Just make sure to have a bunch of rags/towels on hand as you move along. If you don’t have a helper, jam rags and towels in a circular pattern around the radiator neck so they will absorb overflow (you will want to change out the rags each time you cycle through steps 7+). After a few cycles the coolant level in the radiator will maintain and not overflow.<O:p</O:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Learned this one from "Eric the Car guy" on YouTube:

Excellent way to "burp" the cooling system.

Amazon.com: Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive


I've used it when I've done the coolant replacement on all my Honda's (i.e. due to Water Pump replacements)

Another toy for the tool box :D
You know about all the cool toys! I never knew this existed, thanks for sharing. Would definitely help on top of the radiator for overflow.

I also thought something like this could be useful along with a makeshift hose connection to drain the engine block.

Amazon.com: PIG® Form-A-Funnel® Flexible Draining Tool - 6.5" x 14.5": Automotive
 

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Thanks to this thread changed the coolant today!

Made a few errors but hopefully it helps everyone! As posted above, DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC BUTTERFLY Valve. I accidently did thinking coolant would drain faster and ended up covered in almost a gallon of coolant.

No need to remove the plastic. I spent an extra 30 minutes getting it back on due to the front underbody spoiler/garnish having to be over the trim.

Make sure to put the heater on MAX before you drain the coolant!

Loosen the copper bolt on the back of the engine with a small 12mm socket and ratchet than a crescent wrench. No need to remove wires. Break the bolt loose and it'll drip slightly. Put the piping on the valve and the use your fingers to open the copper bolt the rest of the way. I used 1/4'" or 3/8" piping.

Thanks again for the great info :29:
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I did this for the 4<sup>th</sup> or 5<sup>th</sup> timerecently and have more helpful detail to add. If a moderator can allow me toedit the original post that would be appreciated.

Updated Tools List:

-12mm socket (preferably 1/2 inch drive)
-Socket wrench and various extension or two (I have found that a 3/4in drivewrench with a short adapter to 1/2in drive works the best)
-Drain bucket that can fit underneath the standard (no jacks) clearance
-Plastic drain hose, preferably 4+ feet long and flexible (get the clear polyhose from HD or Lowes, in XX diameter)
-2 gallons of coolant (Acura Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/NOL999-9001) (Acura Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50 %antifreeze and 50 % water. Do not add water.)
-Radiator funnel, this isn’t required, but you’ll make a mess without it,HIGHLY recommended (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-...00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)
-Various rags/towels for spills and cleanup
-1 or 2 different size flatheadscrewdrivers (only if you plan to remove the splash guard)
-Needle nose pliers (only if you plan to remove the splash guard)

*3 pictures from the latest coolant change. #1 is theradiator funnel tool, #2 is the hose positioned to drain the engine drainblock, #3 is how I like to position the hose to drain the engine drain block.








 

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Thanks to this thread changed the coolant today!

Made a few errors but hopefully it helps everyone! As posted above, DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC BUTTERFLY Valve. I accidently did thinking coolant would drain faster and ended up covered in almost a gallon of coolant.

No need to remove the plastic. I spent an extra 30 minutes getting it back on due to the front underbody spoiler/garnish having to be over the trim.

Make sure to put the heater on MAX before you drain the coolant!

Loosen the copper bolt on the back of the engine with a small 12mm socket and ratchet than a crescent wrench. No need to remove wires. Break the bolt loose and it'll drip slightly. Put the piping on the valve and the use your fingers to open the copper bolt the rest of the way. I used 1/4'" or 3/8" piping.

Thanks again for the great info
+1 on the butterfly plug. Also, in the absence of a hose, I used the resivor hose to drain the engine plug...
 
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