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Discussion Starter #1
Did an oil change yesterday on my 15 MDX SH AWD. I've done countless oil changes on all my cars. Not rocket science.
Anyways right afterwards now the car has a grinding noise when on the gas 50% or more throttle. Low speeds and idle you don't really hear the noise. When I floor it the tach jumps around a little bit like a slipping clutch would. It doesn't matter which gear it is in though. When making a turn it makes the grinding sound louder when on the gas. Off the gas, idling, engine braking etc it doesn't make any sound. Doesn't make the sound if in neutral revving either.

Any ideas? Supposed to make a 1000 mile round trip end of this week and not looking good now. Car has about 15k miles on it.
 

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Checked all the fluid level? Engine oil, Tranny fluid, differential fluid? If all OK, what else is left to check? I think grinding noise is not from engine.
 

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Unless you can think of something else you might have done incorrectly, like jacking it up from a place that might have caused damage, removing the wrong drain plug, putting any wheels removed back on incorrectly or the lugnuts not torqued or tightened, or other unlikely things (and you say you have experience so these are really unlikely), you should do a check of the engine oil level to make sure it's right on, not way low and not way high, you should probably just take it into Acura service right away to have it looked at. Grinding noises are generally quite bad, unless it's the weird steering one fixed by a software update. You don't want to drive much at all when you have grinding noises and slipping.
 

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Like they said, check all your fluid levels. I know you probably didn't make the newbie mistake of accidentally draining the tranny or the transfer case instead of the motor oil given your selection of vehicles, but the coincidental timing raises a flag.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys! Definitely drained the engine oil and filled into the engine. Oil level is right between high and low. No issues there. New oil filter and new crush washer for drain plug.

I jacked up from the control arms in the front. I did notice when I pulled car in again today to inspect it more that it looks like at some point someone jacked from the chassis brace right underneath where the driveshaft connects to the trans. Don't see this causing any issues but the brace underneath had some markings on it. That or something hit it on the bottom like a rock or something. This still shouldn't cause any sort of issue unless something was obviously dented in or leaking etc.
 

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From what you are describing it sounds like a bad axle but slipping clutch feeling?
Did you pop an axle? because otherwise slipping clutch feeling = transmission.
 

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Thanks guys! Definitely drained the engine oil and filled into the engine. Oil level is right between high and low. No issues there. New oil filter and new crush washer for drain plug.

I jacked up from the control arms in the front. I did notice when I pulled car in again today to inspect it more that it looks like at some point someone jacked from the chassis brace right underneath where the driveshaft connects to the trans. Don't see this causing any issues but the brace underneath had some markings on it. That or something hit it on the bottom like a rock or something. This still shouldn't cause any sort of issue unless something was obviously dented in or leaking etc.
If that cross brace got bent up enough, it can make contact with the transfer case when the powertrain is under load. And that transmits some awful noises into the cabin.

We've also seen quite a few wheel bearing go bad on these new MDXs. A wheel bearing can be verified by the tone and/or volume of the noise will change whether you are turning left or right.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If that cross brace got bent up enough, it can make contact with the transfer case when the powertrain is under load. And that transmits some awful noises into the cabin.

We've also seen quite a few wheel bearing go bad on these new MDXs. A wheel bearing can be verified by the tone and/or volume of the noise will change whether you are turning left or right.
It looks like it did bend up and hit the transfer case however it is not hitting it currently. When I checked earlier today at least an inch gap between brace and the transfer case.

It is definitely not just a noise issue. When flooring the car at lower rpm's the tach will hesitate similar to a slipping clutch feel.

Sound at all like the torque converter?
 

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I guess it's possible. But whatever it is, I think it's time to take it to a dealer at this point.
 

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Sounds like you jacked it up using a non-weight bearing part of the drive train, and its worked itself loose at the weakest point.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I jacked the car up on the control arms which is perfectly fine for jacking. I did see some marks that looked like it had been jacked up or something hit that brace under the driveshaft though. That still shouldn't cause any issues that I can see though.
 

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I use a pair of ramps when I need to change oil. I don't use jack for safety. I don't want to be crushed lying under the car. After I drive up to
ramp, I set parking brake and use a pair of wheel chokes for the rear wheels..
 

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I don't want to be crushed lying under the car.
That's what jackstands are for. I never crawl under a vehicle with just a jack supporting it - jacks can fail.

For the oil change - it's possible to do it on the MDX without getting under a lifted vehicle at all. One can remove the drain bolt without jacking it up and the oil filter can be removed via the right wheel well.

I'll be interested to hear what the issue turned out to be.
 

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I jacked the car up on the control arms which is perfectly fine for jacking. I did see some marks that looked like it had been jacked up or something hit that brace under the driveshaft though. That still shouldn't cause any issues that I can see though.

Not according to the manual...
According to the manufacturer there are only 6 jacking points on the car and none of them are the Lower McPherson A-Arms which DO NOT hold the weight of the car like in Double Wishbone suspensions. I tried to jack the car once with the lower A Arms and when I started to notice some flex I stopped, They are clearly not designed to serve as a jacking point. This was on my 2G but AFAIK the front A-Arms are still the same design on the 3rd Gen.
 

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Not according to the manual...
According to the manufacturer there are only 6 jacking points on the car and none of them are the Lower McPherson A-Arms which DO NOT hold the weight of the car like in Double Wishbone suspensions. I tried to jack the car once with the lower A Arms and when I started to notice some flex I stopped, They are clearly not designed to serve as a jacking point. This was on my 2G but AFAIK the front A-Arms are still the same design on the 3rd Gen.
Aside from the corner jacking points shown in the owner's manual, here are the front and rear jacking points that I've used to lift one end of the vehicle:
http://www.mdxers.org/forums/94-third-generation-mdx-2014-present/108609-jacking-up-car-4-wheels.html

I've always placed my jack stands under the corner jacking points when lifting my car. I've considered putting jack stands under spots other than the corners, but it just always seemed to make the most sense to me to use the corners. I trust that the engineers have made those spots strong enough and thought that its hard to beat those locations from a stability perspective. Never had a problem on any of my cars using this method.

I'm not an expert on repairing this vehicle and haven't seen the factory service manual, but I cannot think of any work on the MDX that would require supporting the weight of the vehicle from the lower control arms.
 

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this shouldnt be a complicated matter when jacking up a car.

i use jack stand on the jack points by the doors and a lift either on the front-end or rear jack points for an additional level of protection; piece of mind.

safety first.
 

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+1 on the Ramps.. The 3 times I have changed oil (Being Engine/ATF) in my X has been from ramps with no problems.
 
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