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I'm debating on using the dealer for this. Does anyone know about what they should charge? Thanks for your usual great replies!
 

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A bottle of fluid and about 15 minutes, so like $40. Lol.

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I'm debating on using the dealer for this. Does anyone know about what they should charge? Thanks for your usual great replies!
$180 if you take it to Honda. Idk how much Acura will charge, since I don't service my MDX at Acura.

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A bottle of fluid and about 15 minutes, so like $40. Lol.

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Are you kidding? I can't get my gas cap off without looking in the owner's manual. DIY isn't an option for me.
 

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Are you kidding? I can't get my gas cap off without looking in the owner's manual. DIY isn't an option for me.
Yeah realistically that's what they SHOULD charge but they charge over $100 like data mentioned. If you ever find a good shop that you trust and go to often, they may include the bleed in with the pad replacement instead of selling it as a separate service. Actually it should be that way automatically, but yanno... everyone needs to make a profit somewhere.

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You may want to double check their procedure. Some places (maybe even dealers) consider sucking as much of the fluid out of the reservoir and topping it off a proper brake fluid service, but the right way to do it is to flush it so the entire system gets new fluid. IMO don't bother with a suck and fill, only do a flush or you just wasted your money.
 

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There are 3 levels of fluid change and you can not see any difference between them. You have to trust the tech's word.
1. Suck out the fluid in the reservoir and refill it.
2. #1 plus bleed each caliper.
3. #1 & #2 plus use Honda's ABS bleeding machine to cycle the ABS fluid and replace it.

If you're lucky, the shop will have a large window, so you can observe the work, but most dealers spend their budget on coffee rooms instead.
 

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If you're lucky, the shop will have a large window, so you can observe the work, but most dealers spend their budget on coffee rooms instead.
I did not see Honda or Acura having any windows in their service lounge, and I've been to plenty of them.

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Discussion Starter #9
There are 3 levels of fluid change and you can not see any difference between them. You have to trust the tech's word.
1. Suck out the fluid in the reservoir and refill it.
2. #1 plus bleed each caliper.
3. #1 & #2 plus use Honda's ABS bleeding machine to cycle the ABS fluid and replace it.

If you're lucky, the shop will have a large window, so you can observe the work, but most dealers spend their budget on coffee rooms instead.
Thanks much for the info! It's greatly appreciated by a non-mechanical guy.
 

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You may want to double check their procedure. Some places (maybe even dealers) consider sucking as much of the fluid out of the reservoir and topping it off a proper brake fluid service, but the right way to do it is to flush it so the entire system gets new fluid. IMO don't bother with a suck and fill, only do a flush or you just wasted your money.
Thanks much, I will make sure to ask them their procedure.
 

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Yeah realistically that's what they SHOULD charge but they charge over $100 like data mentioned. If you ever find a good shop that you trust and go to often, they may include the bleed in with the pad replacement instead of selling it as a separate service. Actually it should be that way automatically, but yanno... everyone needs to make a profit somewhere.

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Thanks for your help...you've helped this all thumbs guy before on here and I really appreciate it.
 

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I'm debating on using the dealer for this. Does anyone know about what they should charge? Thanks for your usual great replies!
Purging your brake system is absolutely one of the easiest things to do on a vehicle, a perfect first time DIY maintenance project. It will take you longer to make a drain bottle out of a used water or gatorade bottle then it will to actually purge the system. I have a 2005 MDX and it just doesn't make sense to spend large amounts of money on it unless I absolutely have to.
 

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Consider what the OP said about his skill set...brakes are not an area to cut your teeth on DIY mechanics. On the proverbial wrench scale, brake fluid exhange is a solid 3 out of 5 on difficulty (because of the consequences of getting it wrong). I wholeheartedly disagree with the sentiment that a (proper) brake fluid exchange easiest maintenance item on a vehicle, I think tire pressure checks, checking the oil level, maybe topping off the windshield washer fluild...those are noob tasks. $180 for a real fluid exchange where they cycle the ABS module is a great price.
 

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Thanks for your help...you've helped this all thumbs guy before on here and I really appreciate it.
Just in case you want to see what the service manual shows for the 16 pilot, which is pretty much identical to ours, here's the instructions. View attachment Conventional Brake System Bleeding 820.pdf

To most people it sounds daunting but it's actually quite easy if you want to try it one day. Plus the car is high enough that you need to jack it up or anything, just crawl under. The worst part is really finding out that the bleeder nipple is larger than other Japanese brands, so you may need to get a larger tube that fits over it snugly. Having a partner is best, but if you get a bleeder bottle with a one way valve, then it's a totally doable by yourself. Just remember to refill the reservoir after each corner.

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Just in case you want to see what the service manual shows for the 16 pilot, which is pretty much identical to ours, here's the instructions. View attachment 114845

To most people it sounds daunting but it's actually quite easy if you want to try it one day. Plus the car is high enough that you need to jack it up or anything, just crawl under. The worst part is really finding out that the bleeder nipple is larger than other Japanese brands, so you may need to get a larger tube that fits over it snugly. Having a partner is best, but if you get a bleeder bottle with a one way valve, then it's a totally doable by yourself. Just remember to refill the reservoir after each corner.

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If you're interested I can post pics of my bleeder container and instructions. I totally support anyone wanting to learn
 

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About to do my wife's 14 MDX within a week or two for the first time (the first flush was done by the dealer). @neoshi So...can you "easily" do this without taking the wheels off? I have all the tools (a SUV jack, 4 jack stands, etc.) but I personally hate jacking up and taking the wheels off :) I was able to do my Subaru Ouback's rear wheels without taking the rear wheels off but not sure I saved that much time as the access to the bleeder nipples was not as easy / convenient as the fronts (obviously)[email protected] Yes, please post some pics as I just used an empty water bottle with a drilled hole on the cap for my last flush (in addition to Motive Power Bleeder).
 

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About to do my wife's 14 MDX within a week or two for the first time (the first flush was done by the dealer). @neoshi So...can you "easily" do this without taking the wheels off? I have all the tools (a SUV jack, 4 jack stands, etc.) but I personally hate jacking up and taking the wheels off :) I was able to do my Subaru Ouback's rear wheels without taking the rear wheels off but not sure I saved that much time as the access to the bleeder nipples was not as easy / convenient as the fronts (obviously)[email protected] Yes, please post some pics as I just used an empty water bottle with a drilled hole on the cap for my last flush (in addition to Motive Power Bleeder).
I was able to just crawl under back there and stick the tube on the bleeder, so considered it easy. For the fronts, my wife made the fronts easier for me by turning the wheels enough for me to access the bleeders without going totally under for those.

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I apologize for the size but I'm having technical issues, lol. I just happen to have my right front tire taken off replacing the lower ball bearing.

Open the master cylinder, suck out as much of the old brake fluid as possible. You can also use several paper towels, or an old t-shirt to absorb it then fill it back up to the full line.
Go in this order, right rear (passenger rear), left rear, right front, then left front. you want to drain the longest lines first.
Hang the bottle so it's very low, this is for reducing pressure and just keeping it from spilling.
Break the bleeder valve free but leave it closed.
Connect the the tubing to the bleeder valve and open the valve about 1/2 a turn.
Go to the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal 6-8 times.
Check the bottle, when all the old brake fluid is out of the line you'll see a very noticeable change in the color of the fluid from quite dark to clear right around the end of the tubing in the bottle.
Once you see the color change close and tighten the bleeder valve. Do not remove the tubing until after you retighten the valve.
Top the master cylinder off again with new brake fluid and move to the next tire.
Repeat until all four lines are complete


This is the brake line bleeder nipple, loosen but do not remove to bleed the line
114846



This is what I call the breather bottle, I made it with scraps so it's effective not pretty lol. The copper wire is a hanger so I can hang the bottle somewhere under the car so it doesn't spill, I do this by myself.
114847


This is the cap, just two tubing barbs (you can use plastic) glued in place. Cut one barb down by half, glue the short half on top. This is the breather so the bottle can stay equalized, do not connect anything to it cutting it short will remind you not to use it.
114849



Connect a piece of tubing to the underside of the cap that lies a comfortably on the bottom of the bottle, connect a longer piece of tubing to the topside of the same barb (~3', you'll figure out how long it needs to be once it's connected). This tubing is what you'll connect to the bleeder valve.
114850



My tubing is a little short. Before you start pour enough brake fluid into the bottle so the opening of the tubing is covered by ~1/4", this is so if anything gets sucked back into the brake line it's brake fluid and not air.
114851
 

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Thanks and really helpful!! I have used a old wire hanger in the past which worked well. Have a Rhino ramp for oil changes and may try for the rears - just to get a bit more room underneath. Thanks again!
 
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