[jimhow4545]

I think I have a bad fuel injector on cylinder #1 or bad EGR valve? Which one? I swapped ignition coil and spark plug and still have P0301. The smell coming out of the exhaust pipe is so rich and so strong odor. Is there a way to test the resistance of the fuel injector without removing the manifold or the injector itself? I am go to check the compression on cylinder #1. What is the procedure of checking the cylinder compression?
thanks

 

[dzionassi]

check compression

 

[jimhow4545]

check compression

I will do that. Do you have a procedure on how to do a compression test? How do you prevent the fuel injector from spraying fuel when you crank the engine?

 

[dzionassi]

I will do that. Do you have a procedure on how to do a compression test? How do you prevent the fuel injector from spraying fuel when you crank the engine?

Same way you did last time. Disconnect starter and feed 12v to crank the engine.

 

[Bluecivic107]

You can pull Interior Fuse#19, Fuel pump….

 

[jimhow4545]

You can pull Interior Fuse#19, Fuel pump….

Thanks! Question. Is there a way to disable the fuel injector individually? I want to disable the #1 fuel injector and disconnect the #1 coil ignition connector to prevent fuel dumping inside the clylinder while driving.

 

[jimhow4545]

If the EGR valve is bad it would trigger error code and it would also triggered random misfire. Is this true? In my case there is no error code related to EGR valve and the misfire always cylinder #1 (P0301). The point is that I don’t to waste money and replace good EGR valve. Please let me know what you think. Also when I disconnected the EGR valve connector and drove a little bit to see if it will trigger any code and it didn’t, just kept getting P0301. I noticed a lot of smoke came out of the tail pipe when the EGR valve connector is disconnected.

 

[Bluecivic107]

What are your symptoms?

 

[jimhow4545]

Ok finally had the compression test done.
Cylinder #1 is shot (60 psi) and all the rest of the cylinders is 180 psi. Next test would be a leak down test I guess to locate where the leak is. Probably I will have to pay the shop to do this leak down test because I don’t have a compressed air pump. The car is still drivable but it is shaking and rough idling. Highway speed is shaking a little especially when accelerated. No sure how much to fix it or worth fixing it. Probably a lot cheaper to get it fix at independent shop. Should I keep driving as it is until the engine dies? Definitely it wouldn’t pass the emission test. Probably I will have to pay extra extra to get it passes. That is another story I will have to deal with.

So any snake oil can temporarily fix this?

 

[dzionassi]

Ok finally had the compression test done.
Cylinder #1 is shot (60 psi) and all the rest of the cylinders is 180 psi. Next test would be a leak down test I guess to locate where the leak is. Probably I will have to pay the shop to do this leak down test because I don’t have a compressed air pump. The car is still drivable but it is shaking and rough idling. Highway speed is shaking a little especially when accelerated. No sure how much to fix it or worth fixing it. Probably a lot cheaper to get it fix at independent shop. Should I keep driving as it is until the engine dies? Definitely it wouldn’t pass the emission test. Probably I will have to pay extra extra to get it passes. That is another story I will have to deal with.

So any snake oil can temporarily fix this?

Like I told you before: OIL CONSUMPTION IS NOT A FRIEND TO YOUR EXHAUST VALVES.

 

[jimhow4545]

Like I told you before: OIL CONSUMPTION IS NOT A FRIEND TO YOUR EXHAUST VALVES.

So do you have a ball park where the leak will be, top or bottom? I know it’s not a head gasket because I don’t see any coolant losses.
What about valve adjustment? Does it has anything to do with compression losses?

 

[dzionassi]

So do you have a ball park where the leak will be, top or bottom? I know it’s not a head gasket because I don’t see any coolant losses.
What about valve adjustment? Does it has anything to do with compression losses?

Again, its most likely exhaust valve.

 

[jimhow4545]

Would it be cheaper to get a new block or head with completely valves from acura?

 

[jimhow4545]

Dz, if I put a few drops of engine oil in cylinder #1 and the compression test show higher than before is that mean the piston ring is bad?

 

[dzionassi]

Dz, if I put a few drops of engine oil in cylinder #1 and the compression test show higher than before is that mean the piston ring is bad?

Yes. Do you have inspection camera?

 

[jimhow4545]

Yes. Do you have inspection camera?

I do. What do I look for with a bore scope? So a bad piston ring or piston is more expensive and works to repair than the exhaust valves?

 

[dzionassi]

I do. What do I look for with a bore scope? So a bad piston ring or piston is more expensive and works to repair than the exhaust valves?

make a pic of the valves and piston, also cylinder walls. Price should be about the same...

 

[jimhow4545]

make a pic of the valves and piston, also cylinder walls. Price should be about the same...

Ok

 

[jimhow4545]

fgdfgfgfd

 

[jimhow4545]

Dz, I am thinking about removing the rear cylinder head and buy a cylinder head assembly from Acura online. Does it come with a complete assembly( camshaft, valves, rocker arm). Or do you need buy them individually from Acura?