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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

Finally had the time to do my Front CVs it took me 2 hours but bear in mind I don´t have a lift :D

The idea of this was removing a stupid clunk noise in my suspension so I believe it was the CV because the grease leaked from it anddddddd the noise is still there! seems that the spring seat in the shock is making noise probably from getting too much dirt.. Solution will be to disassembly the shock and grease the seat but that is a job for another time.

Here are the OEM Axles @ 87K


I replaced both because I had a deal on the second unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ohh and BTW both Axles were in good working condition...
I ended up changing them because I had the new units for months So I could not turn them back anymore, That sure I was the noise was coming from the CV. Took me around 3 hours to find the clunk noise in the spring area of the shock.

The leaky CV just needs a grease repack and a new boot band.
 

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Hello!

Finally had the time to do my Front CVs it took me 2 hours but bear in mind I don´t have a lift :D

The idea of this was removing a stupid clunk noise in my suspension so I believe it was the CV because the grease leaked from it anddddddd the noise is still there! seems that the spring seat in the shock is making noise probably from getting too much dirt.. Solution will be to disassembly the shock and grease the seat but that is a job for another time.

Here are the OEM Axles @ 87K


I replaced both because I had a deal on the second unit.
What brand did you buy?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OEM, Didn´t know about RAXLES before :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is the pic of the new Units (Manufacture Date Nov/15)
 

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Any details on how to do it? Also any good tool kits to do grease repack and add a boot band? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any details on how to do it? Also any good tool kits to do grease repack and add a boot band? Thanks.
The band is a pressure type ring so you will need a flat driver to remove it and a special tool to press it like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MA0KBXE?psc=1
You can re-use the band or you can buy it from honda but it comes with the entire boot.

There is no tool for adding grease its all by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Maybe a good thing as Raxles gets mixed reviews. We're the OEM remanufactured?
It only says the date and USA. So somewhere in the USA :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ohh Yes they are Brand New OEM direct from Acura Dealership.
Price was 170 bucks Full MSRP for one and -50% for the other (Like I said it was a deal that´s why I bought both).

The truly staggering expensive ones are the Rears.. They both start at 400 bucks each, Since the fronts are probably some variation of the ones used in the Pilot and Ridgeline they are "cheap".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Part Numbers are:
44306-STX-A02 for Passenger Side
44305-STX-A02 for Drivers Side
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Next is to disassembly the shock unit. I sincerely do not know the exact cause but all the diagnosis has lead me to the shock unit itself (Unit like in complete strut assembly, Not just the shock). I will take a look at it this weekend right now I need the car for work.
 

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I have the same "clunking" noise in my 08 suspension. Driving me and wife crazy - so what's remedy??
I still have my money on this:

http://www.mdxers.org/forums/1158281-post5.html

UPDATE!
my mechanic re torqued down the 4 of the large bolts that connect the engine cradle to the subframe under the car. One of them he said was more loose than the rest. When turning the engine cradle was moving slightly causing the "clunk".

Now on to the vibration at high speed issue.sigh
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Engine Cradle? The engine connects to the sub frame by engine mounts, Is that what you mean?
 

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Next is to disassembly the shock unit. I sincerely do not know the exact cause but all the diagnosis has lead me to the shock unit itself (Unit like in complete strut assembly, Not just the shock). I will take a look at it this weekend right now I need the car for work.
I've done many a front strut on the MDX.

Assuming you will use the inexpensive and lightweight spring compressor which looks like a pair of bolts with a large claw at each end;

Use not one pair, but 2 pairs of these. Start with one pair of compressors. When you've maxed out the compression on these and find the spring is not compressed enough to remove the rod nut, install the 2nd pair and compress further. Go to 2 different auto parts stores for free loaners.

DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH, electric or air powered to rotate the spring compressor bolts. The warning instructions say so, but many people don't heed the warning. These bolts are not real bolts, (not for less than $100/pair) they are just threaded rods with a nut drilled through and pinned to one end. Impacting the bolt will shear the nut from the rod and the compressor will fail under tremendous pressure. Use a long handled socket wrench and if possible, mount the strut in a large vice. How do I know this? Comes to the next point:

Even if you don't use an impact wrench, if you use a borrowed/rented tool, how do you know that others before you haven't?

Using 2 sets of compressors will allow you to compress the spring sufficiently to disassemble the strut safely. Also, if there is a failure in a set of compressor tools, the other set will keep it all together, and the shooting metal parts will be much tamer. I was glad I was using a double set of compressors when one tool broke apart. No injury, just loud noise and being startled. Having a secondary safety guard means if you do something stupid (using an impact wrench to drive the compressor tool, because its way easier than cranking a wrench all day long) there's something else that will save you. Like using an extra set of jack stands to back up the first set, or at least sliding a pair of ramps under the door area (lost an acquaintance due to unstable support point, no I wasn't there).
 

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UPDATE!
my mechanic re torqued down the 4 of the large bolts that connect the engine cradle to the subframe under the car. One of them he said was more loose than the rest. When turning the engine cradle was moving slightly causing the "clunk".

Now on to the vibration at high speed issue.sigh
I'd be concerned why those were loose to begin with. They should not come loose on their own from the factory. Wonder if there was some previous repair done on your car?
 

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I've got the clunk on driver's side front axle now too...is there any consensus on what's causing this or are we still troubleshooting?? Seems there are few remedies on this thread but no one is reporting total elimination of rattle...
 
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